I have the opportunity to take the chrome windshield moulding off of a parts car but have been unable to locate good instructions for doing this (i.e. I have done several searches before posting this). Does anyone know of a good write-up on this, or have any tips/tricks for getting the moulding off without bending or otherwise damaging it?

thanks.

It's been my experience that you should remove the windshield first. Once it's out, carefully remove the trim. There are pieces that slide on (corners and middle) to hold them together. Slide them to one side. The trim pulls right out, but like you already know, they will bend easily.

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I watched a Safelite installer remove the alum trim and windshield from my 300D. He slid the top middle clip to one side, pryed up the ends just enough to slide a 1/4 " rope under. Sprayed the mouldind with glass cleaner as a lube and pulled on the rope (both ends) and that lifted the alum trim out of the rubber moulding. The windshield now comes out easily by pushing from the inside.

I have taken the alum trim off the windshield of my 240D parts car since using the same method and it came out easily.

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

First, funola - can you elaborate on your method a bit. Not sure how this doesn't bend the end of the trim before the rope is inserted. Do you simply lift a tiny bit and wedge the rope under the blade and along its sides while it is still in the rubber? And I assume you are inserting the rope perpendicular to and under the blade of the trim. Again, not sure how this doesn't bend the trim when the rope is pulled around.

Second, if you're taking the trim off a parts car, all you really need to do is cut the rubber down to where the trim fits into the seal. A utility blade does the trick. If you want to maintain the window seal (so you can tow the car with the window still installed or to keep water out of the interior) cut the seal from the body side of the trim. If you don't care about the window seal cut it from the window side. Remove the rubber and the trim comes out easily.

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mjk

'84 300SD 119KMi (Liesl der Diesel)
'84 300D 326KMi when the oil left (former parts car)
'82 300SD 253KMi (new parts car)

micalk, first, it's not my method, just a method I've seen. Some slight gentle bending does occur, but the aluminum is very soft and can be easily bent back to shape by hand or using hard wood blocks and hammers. The alum trims acts as wedges to spread the rubber moulding out and that's what's holding the windshield in the frame (not glued in with urethane like on newer cars).

I the rubber moulding can be cut to remove the alum trim but I have not tried that and don't know how easy or difficult that is or what complications can arise.

Once the end of one of the alum trims is lifted enough (1/4") to slide a rope under (picture a scissor cutting a rope). You pull on the rope towards the V formed by the trim and the moulding. Keep spraying lube in as you pull to lessen the friction between the pieces and thus less deforming of the alum trim.
There are 3 alum trim pieces so repeat the operation twice.
I used soapy water in a spray bottle for lube.

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

Can you describe how to remove the windshield/moulding/trims as an assembly without destroying the rubber moulding? I've seen the assembly "roped in" but not sure if it can be "roped out"

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

I had an old glass man tell me to use the rope trick.
Slide the clip back, then gently lift the trim enough to slip the rope under.
then when pylling the rope, hold the trim down to keep it from curling up. If this happens, then it will be a bear to straighten out to fit propely.
I use a piece of nylon line about 1/8 - 3/16th.

I have done this about 3 times, not saying this is the proper way to go. Old glass men do cut corners.

I think the next time I remove one, will be with a razor blade knife.

Maybe the aluminium trim squeezes/hold the rubber tight against the body w/o sealant. I still use a bead of urethane sealant under the edge for that added insurance of a dry trunk etc....


the last time I had a mobile independant guy come by to install the rear window, I had more leaks than with the old one, and this is with a new gasket. guy said MB uses no sealant. After a trunk full of water, I sealed it. that was in 06, and has been dry since.

Charlie

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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

Your window guy was wrong. Step 11 in the '84 300SD rear window replacement procedure states to "Apply MB-glass sealing compound all-around in body flange."

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mjk

'84 300SD 119KMi (Liesl der Diesel)
'84 300D 326KMi when the oil left (former parts car)
'82 300SD 253KMi (new parts car)

There is also a DIY for the rear window

http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/W123RearWindowSeal

I pulled the trim out last night using the 'rope' method described by funola and it worked brilliantly. I used speaker wire instead of rope because I couldn't find any rope.