i have a spectre dual cone filter on my 83 300d turbo and it looks good. i was gonna go with abs pipe but i decided to just buy the fittings at autozone which only cost 20 $ and i didnt have to do any modifying

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what a day

I put K&N in my 240D and wow did it make a clear difference in perfomance at top speed. That engine would SING (it was a newish Metric Motors rebuild) .... the easy air flow was clearly helping , the intake and exhaust seemed perfectly tuned.... at about 80mph it resonated and sounded so happy. It also felt to me like that was as fast as it wanted to go. Happy at 80, not more though.

I was running a K&N Air Filter previous to the Mod.

Lots of info that has the K&N Air Filter does not filter well. I have a thread somewhere in this forum where I ask is there was something other then the K&N Air Filter cleaner that could be use to clean it and got roundly vilified for using a K&N Air Filter and lots of posts on why that is so.

In any event the present Washable Filter I have is made by Fram and you only need detergent to wash it with and the construction is similar to the paper element Air Filters. I have seen nothing to indicate how well it filters compared to paper element filters. Also I did not put that filter on for any improvement of air flow. I did it to keep the Oil Vapor from killing the Air Filter Element.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Don't tell me .... you, of all people, one of THE grand old men of the Mercedes boards .... gives a damn much what others admonish you for doing? OK. I guess. Not me though.

I'm 67 and do not expect to , I intend not to, outlive my current OM617 and the smidgeon less engine life that could happen as a result of K&N.. Fugit.

That settles it. Im going to try one.

I suspect diluted Superclean degreaser might be a good cleaning agent for that occasional cleaning of the K&N, no big concern about some engine oil on it.

That idean of sealing the oil condening chamber inside the stock 617 turbo air cleaner sounds good.

I asked Gus at Pacific Fuel Injection about the K&N, he commented those FI pumps are calibrated to deliver fuel proportional with a normal paper filter in the intake air. He was inferring messing with intake air volume may throw that off.

I just thought that the guy ought to know a hint of other opinions on the K&N.

My views are clear in an older thread. And, I did change to another type of air filter.
I could not see retaining the Stock Air Filter that was getting saturated and ruined with Oil Vapor and needed to be replaced more frequently because of that.
So in fact that sort of stuck me with the K&N till I found another solution I considered better. I also like the fact that the Fram Filters are washable and also have the same wasable filter on my Volvo Diesel and a direct replacment Fram washable Filter on my Van, So that little bit of knowlege was extremely helpful.

Some of the detractions in using the K&N is the expense of special Oil and Cleaner K&N Air Filter and the cleaning is more complicated and you need more care in cleaning and drying.
However, I used the K&N fir 4 years and I never found anything gritty behind/inside the air filter housing sticking on the Oil film left from the Oil Vapor. I think you would expect that if the Filter was not working well.

I can't comment on Gassers but Diesels always have an excess of Air if the air inlet system is normal so you can't get too much air into it. Also the Turbo pumps in more air and increase the air density in the Cylinders. But then the ADLA on the Fuel Injection Pump compensates for that.

If you like math the Wix Filter site has the cubic feet pre minute their version of the stock filter can handle. Figure out how much air flow needs to get into the cylinders and you will have your answer.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Here is my old thread: Washing K&N air filters

I guess I am not too old to change if I have a good reason to.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

F*r*ed ind. has a cranium full of ****.

For cleaning : I suspect any gentle cleaner (maybe superclean would be too much) super clean seems like a good idea ... and then mineral oil with a bit of isopropyl alcohol to aerosolize it in a spray bottle.

that thread was interesting .... you, the level headed pragmatist conversing with that egomaniac moron "forced emptying of bowels into cranium"

This article was a good find for me...I just did Diesel911's mod. I found a 2" 90 deg rubber joint and used that instead of the straight one into the PCV pipe. Other than that it's the same...and I think it will work out well.

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dmcginn2
2014 E250 Bluetec
2015 Golf Sportwagen TDI

You could post some pictures.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Fair enough, but it was dark outside, so I didn't take any.

Plus I still haven't done the oil separator thing yet, it's jut venting through some fuel hose at the front right spring. I may just drill a hole and stick it in the short piece of pvc pipe of the intake for now.

Having said that, appreciate the methodology. got tired of dealing with busted air cleaner mount/bracket etc. Engine doesn't shake that bad, but still bad enough to cause problems like this.

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dmcginn2
2014 E250 Bluetec
2015 Golf Sportwagen TDI

So here is the picture of the rubber 90 degree elbow. I should have cut the pvc pipe longer so I can cut a hole for the breather hose...

Attached Thumbnails

 

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dmcginn2
2014 E250 Bluetec
2015 Golf Sportwagen TDI

Thanks!

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

You nailed it there and seem better informed than Gus .... though I may have asked the question poorly.

From Wiki.... on the fuel air ratios and the story of basic difference between gas and diesel.

With gas, a precision match between number of molecules of fuel and of air works.

With diesel not so, as you say.

Gasoline engines can run at stoichiometric air-to-fuel ratio, because gasoline is quite volatile and is mixed (sprayed or carburetted) with the air prior to ignition. Diesel engines, in contrast, run lean, with more air available than simple stoichiometry would require. Diesel fuel is less volatile and is effectively burned as it is injected, leaving less time for evaporation and mixing. Thus, it would form soot (black smoke) at stoichiometric ratio.

I have been reusing the same Air Filter (Fram WA8039 washable Air Filter) for 7 years. I was washing it to day and wondered if it might be time to replace it.

But when I looked it up no one seems to be selling it now. 2 places list is as not available.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Yeah! Been looking for this thread. I HATE the stock air filter housing, plus my filter get a little oily, so I want to do something like this.


How's the air flow of something like the Fram WA8039? Adequate? Surface area looks quite a bit smaller than stock.


If air flow is so-so, I'm not against install 2 of em, side by side or so, feeding into one air intake tube. Kinda dumb, but I like kind of dumb.