funola,
Yes thats better!!!!
I wish you luck with your attempts to fix your comp!!!

I disassembled the R4 partially and got the clutch bearing out. I took a lot of pics and will post them later to share so that it may help others who would like to do the same job.

For now I need to find a replacement bearing. It is marked NDH 908287 40mm id, 62 mm od, 24 mm thick. Is that a standard bearing? Autozone wants $28 for one and I am not sure if it is a quality or some junk import. I'm going to look around locally. Used to be a bearing shop nearby (many years ago) not sure if they are still around.

Probably standard, maybe bg405

http://jenniskens.livedsl.nl/Technical/Tips/Files/AC_bearing_specs.pdf
http://www.acsource.com/bysize.aspx

I completely dissassembled a ps pump before to replace the front seal and its working fine still;)

However a high pressure refrigerant compressor is different. Youll probably never get it back together and have it function correctly and efficiently. But if you do, please tell us!

This is the first R4 clutch that I tried to pull with the wrong puller. Instead of using the puller to the left of the red box to pull the clutch plate, I used the puller below the red box to pull the entire clutch assembly. I said it didn't budge but I was wrong. See the 2 circular items in the center? There should only be one (a snap ring). The other circular item is the broken collar where the snap ring fits into. No big deal since this compressor is no good (no pressure or suction) to start with and is perfect to practice disassembly on. This is the one I will disassemble to look inside, not trying to rebuild it.

The puller for the clutch plate is Autozone 27002, it is not listed on their AC loaner tools (the ones listed 27005 and 27007 do not fit the R4). I'll post more pics later

edit: want to add that the Autozone puller 27002 is not the best quality. The compressor center bolt is pointy, so is the puller bolt. After use, the puller bolt mushroomed put! Either it is not properly hardened or not hardened in the first place.

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...070610_001.jpg

First the small puller (27002) to remove the pressure plate and the key, then some snap ring pliers to remove the wavy clip, then the large silver puller to remove the magnet and the clutch plate.

L-R in the pic: square key (small), pressure plate, circlip, clutch w/ bearing still installed, magnet with three "pins" that marry up to the compressor for alignment, V-belt pulley.

A good set of snap ring pliers is my next tool purchase.

FYI: AutoZone just dropped the price of the CompressorWorks R4 compressor w/ M-B clutch included - now $189+ tax for a new unit.

Yak is right with the steps to pull the clutch. Too bad I didn't get his help before I broke the first R4.. Leaterman must be chuckling now.

Here's pic taking the center nut off the 2nd R4. I used a chain wrench which worked great.

Yak, Is the Autozone Compressor works unit any good? That may be an option if my compressor turns out to be NG.

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...070610_003.jpg

To get to the clutch bearing, the 6 bolts with staked washers on the perimeter must be removed. This is pic of the 2nd R4 clutch disassembled. The 2nd R4 has 11 mm bolts, but the 1st R4 has 8 mm bolts. Why the difference?

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...070610_004.jpg

Supported on wood blocks, hammer and large socket to drive the bearing out. I bought the Autozone bearing at $25. The packaging said it is made in Japan so hopefully it's a good bearing.

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...070610_005.jpg

Chuckling ? If you are having fun that is all that counts...
MB engineers must have made a lot of their money on selling special tools to their own Dealers... but on AC compressors the fact is that for them to last a long time the tolerances have to be close...

Don't know. Mine's on the floor of my garage waiting to be installed.

I read that CompressorWorks is the last manufacturer of "new" R4 compressors and other companies just rebrand them. But I've also seen new "Behr" compressors online, so who knows (except maybe Behr, or Delphi...).

They've got a website, say their stuff is assembled in Dallas, etc etc.
http://www.compressorworks.com/default.aspx?page=Rfour

And buy a new hammer before you hurt yourself!

Here's the old bearing next to the new (green one). The first bearing from Autozone I looked at, box says made in Japan. Bearing was not in a sealed package so I went back and exchanged it for a sealed one but box says made in China, Looked at the other 2, box says made in USA. None of the bearings had any Mfg name or country of origin on the bearing itself except the green one which says Santech (the others were black with just some numbers). My guess is they are all made in China. I have not installed the new bearing and will return it. What I did was install the good coil in the clutch housing with a good bearing and now have a complete compressor that does not make noise when spun. I figure that with a compressor that is an unknown and untested, that I should not put money into it. I will put a pressure gauge on the compressor, mist some oil in it and spin it on the bench. Depending on what kind of pressure output I get, I will decide if I will install it.

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...070710_002.jpg

When will you install yours? The hammer looks like the handle is loose but it is not. I drove the stakes in and it is tight.

R4 no sump is BS- see video
 

I further disassembled the R4 with the broken collar. As can be seen in the video, there is plenty of space at the low point for a sump and oil to collect. The half moon part that I am turning the compressor by is an oil slinger!

Anyone know how to further disassemble it so I can get the pistons out? Do I need a special puller?

Click to play video!

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...1278605183.jpg

Funola,

Do you know whether the compressor you are dissassembling is a mercedes specific R4. Check out the upside down email I posted where the R4 for GM is mounted correctly and the r4 for mercedes is bottom mounted.

check that oil slinger (I'm assuming it spins so the lateral orientation wouldn't matter)

There should be a path for oil to travel into the moving parts that is orientation specific.

Let us know.

Kent