dissembling R4 compressor
 

Anyone have an exploded view of an R4 compressor or info/ pics of disassembly process?

I don't like the sound of the bearing on the R4 from my 240D parts car and would like to replace the bearing before using it.

The chances of any normal human being having all the special tools to do this correctly is zero... I have the MB AC manual with the take apart procedure..
but my scanner is not set up at this time.... if you take my word on it it will save you a lot of time and effort... find a good new one and install it correctly.. meaning full flush before hand.. you know all the rest of the ' drill '... and do not hit it with any sticks...

It's the bearing on the freewheel pulley that is a little noisy, not the compressor. I got the rusty center nut off of the practice R4 from the 300DT (with a bad solenoid coil) with Freeall penetrating oil, 3/8 breaker bar, 14 mm socket and impacted it off with a rubber mallet. I am going to Autozone and see if they have a puller that will fit. Hope the bearing in there is standard off the shelf.

THAT is a tad bit different from the title of this post...LOL
you may can do that just fine...
But someplaces in there are some very close tolerances...

a new clutch should take care of that fine.

I dont think the OP is off the title at all.....Just maybe not to the degree that you were thinking....so perhaps "misleading" to some.

I would think that in order to disassemble the compressor, one would need to remove the clutch assembly.

I too am interested in this info as I have a noisy clutch assembly on my W123.

I have seen the pictures of taking the actual R4 apart .... EEEEEEKKKKKK !!!!!!
Well, I will modify that..
normal people can take it apart just fine..
putting it back together and it working a reasonable time... that is different...

I got a puller from Autozone. Set it up to pull on the pulley against the center bolt. Did not budge! Is the oulley not what I should pull on? Do I have to remove the 6 staked 8 mm bolts on the perimeter of the solenoid?

Leathermang, instead of posting about normal and abnormal people, how about posting some pertinent info from the Mercedes AC manual that you have?

Because my scanner is not set up with this computer..
WHAT ? you won't take my word on it ?

You don't have to scan it. Just say: "you need this puller to go on xxx, and pull xxx, not xxx" etc.

FYI data
 

http://www.xmanproject.com/tutorials/r4/r4_repair.php

http://www.sanden.com/images/SD_Service_Guide_Rev.2.pdf

http://www.cpsproducts.com/site/elements/download/PDFs/%2373-007%20AC10868A.pdf

http://www.snapon.com/ac/pdf/AC_Catalog2010.pdf

http://www.toolsunlimited.com.au/catoologue/T&E/T&E%20section%206%20Airconditioning%20Tools.pdf

Thanks whunter just the info I need!!! Good you are not a teaser like the leather guy.:rolleyes:
Went back to Autozone and they don't have the puller with the correct threads. They have one for the Ford but not for the GM R4.

funola,
Be nice !!! I am sure that Lethermang was just trying to save you a lot of grief !!
I have had my disagreements with him but I have found him to be a person with his heart in the right place.
A long time ago I attempted to make 2 broken R4's in 1 good one. It was the biggest waste of time ever.
Be careful removing the pulley/clutch, it doesnt take much of a shock to damage the front seal on the comp.
To use that sort of language in the same sentence as whunter is not a good look.

Layback40, I edited my post. Is that better? :)

Was it a wastéof time? You did learn something from it didn't you? I love taking things apart! I know I will learn something in the processs. Thanks for the warning on the seal.

It is always fun to take stuff apart...
at that level you may learn something...
but I studied fixing one of these R4's at one time...
and the tolerances and SPECIAL TOOLS ... which I doubt that you , as a non dealer, can even buy.... convinced me it was a factory rebuild job for any chance of it giving reasonable service... keeping in mind that if is explodes you have a huge cleanup and redo job on your AC system.... and my criteria for longevity is 6-8 years with nothing other than a little added refrigerant to replace the designed in leak at the main shaft which keeps that outer seal lubricated.