38) Install a new P/S belt, if desired. Remember about the plastic tension bolt and tighten up the other three mounting bolts. FSM says 25 Nm for 8.8 hardness and 35 for 10.9.
39) Double and triple check for misplaced tools. Do a “tool count” and put them away. Take a break, come back out and look everything over one more time.
40) Dry run your belts and other connections. Make sure the A/C is turned off so the clutch doesn’t try to engage, even though the low pressure switch should stop it.
41) Have your system vacuumed and charged (note: you should also replace the receiver dryer, but this DIY is long enough already).
42) Before you go all wild with your new in-car coolness, you should burnish your shiny new clutch. This is what Ryder says about burnishing: “Burnishing is the cycling of the clutch to allow a wearing in of the engagement surface area. The reason for burnishing a clutch is to increase the initial starting torque. Most technicians fail to follow this important procedure when replacing a compressor or clutch. An unburnished clutch can produce a low torque condition, causing the clutch to slip and thereby fail. When replacing a clutch or compressor & clutch assembly, follow this important burnishing procedure. Run the engine at 1,500 to 2,500 RPM. Using the controls on the dash, cycle the clutch ON and OFF at a rate of 10 to 15 times per minute for a total of 50 cycles minimum. This should bring the clutch up to operating torque capacity.” The Ryder page is an excellent reference with clear simple paragraphs: http://www.ryderfleetproducts.com/cgi-bin/ryderfp/technicalbulletins/acClutchfail.jsp
43) I haven’t used my system yet since I’m still waiting for a new parallel flow condenser (Yeah, thanks a lot for expediting the already two week overdue parts Arizona Mobile Air – I hope your parts are good, because your service is lacking…UPS ground on Wed and you think it’ll be here by Friday?) Assuming they ever get here, I hope to have the system evacuated, leak checked and charged soon.