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  #1  
Old 08-10-2010, 02:07 PM
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difficulty of replacing om617.952 in w126 ...

I searched , couldn't find an answer. Is there a how to on replacing the engine?

I have an 83 300sd , nothing spectacular , the engine quit a week ago. I was looking to sell it as is or part it out, but I got a message from a forum member offering 250K mile engine.

I'm not sure if it's worth the hassle , but I'm considering it. How much of a PIA is it to replace the engine?
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Old 08-10-2010, 02:18 PM
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I'm about to remove my engine from my W123 300D to get the lower oil pan straight and to see what on earth is causing those great plumes of smoke.

In principle it seems like a straightforward operation. You need an engine crane and a balancing attachment (sorry don't know the name for that bit). This is clearly shown in the picture in post number one of the thread link below.

It seems best to take out the engine and the gearbox together. FSM and Haynes say so.

You disconnect everything between the engine and the chassis and pull it out!

In your situation I'd be more worried about making sure that your replacement engine is worth the work. Have you done a pressure leak test or a compression test?


This is the thread - but it doesn't give much info on getting the thing out...

Konstan's 1982 300D Engine Out Thread
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  #3  
Old 08-10-2010, 02:19 PM
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Talking U-R-NUTS

Call me.

It is a two day job for John Q Public.
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Old 08-10-2010, 02:36 PM
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I have all the tools. engine hoist , load level , I've changed bmw engines before

by 2 days do you mean 48 hours?

I don't want to spend more than 6 hours on the whole job , and the soot filled grease is turning me off.
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Old 08-10-2010, 02:43 PM
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I am in the middle of taking an OM617.952 out of one car and putting it in another right now, my first engine swap. It has been remarkably easy, save for a couple stuck bolts here and there. I'm not sure I'd call it a 2 day job (I've been on it about 3-4), but it isn't too hard.
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Old 08-10-2010, 03:21 PM
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if the car has a .952 in it, then it should be a straight forward swap, if it has a diff version then you'll likely need some parts from the donor to the recipient
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Old 08-10-2010, 03:32 PM
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Answer

Quote:
Originally Posted by ARINUTS View Post
I have all the tools. engine hoist , load level , I've changed BMW engines before

by 2 days do you mean 48 hours?

I don't want to spend more than 6 hours on the whole job , and the soot filled grease is turning me off.
6-8 hours in and out the door for the average shop..

It can be done in 1.15 hours with the correct equipment/tools and a really good eight man crew.
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Old 08-10-2010, 03:35 PM
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you'd spend more than six hours parting it out--i bet you can do the swap yourself in six hours
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Old 08-10-2010, 03:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whunter View Post
6-8 hours in and out the door for the average shop..

It can be done in 1.15 hours with the correct equipment/tools and a really good eight man crew.
Ok now you're making me feel bad I've had the engine sitting in my driveway for 4 days now working about 4 hours a day after work (so 16 hours I guess?).

To OP: I've done it with just basic hand tools (metric craftsman socket set/wrenches) and an engine crane with load leveler. Haven't run into many issues. It is definitely a driveway/garage project if you don't want to pay someone. Probably able to cut the time in half if you have soemone helping you, or a car lift.
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  #10  
Old 08-10-2010, 03:46 PM
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Took 3hrs to pull my engine. about 2 to disconnect everything, and then 1 to pull it and roll it up into my garage, with help of a friend.
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  #11  
Old 08-10-2010, 05:31 PM
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Is it really easier to pull the tranny together? I feel like I'm going to make a mess with ATF, disconnecting the lines and all.

Is there detailed instructions on what to disconnect?

I used to be able to do an engine swap on 80's bmw 325i in a day, full swap, take one out, put another in. but those were manual trans and easier to deal with.
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  #12  
Old 08-10-2010, 05:43 PM
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Its really simple, much easier to take trans out than to try and reach all of those bell housing bolts. All you have is the trans cooler lines, shift linkage, vaccum modulator, and two wires for kickdown and NSS. Unbolt the mount and flex disc and it is free. Mine didn't make too much of a mess, just stuck an oil collector under the cooler when you unhook it. You're already going to unhook the radiator hoses so why not the trans lines too?

If you have any specific questions I can take a picture of my engine and/or the old engine bay for what to disconnect. It is literally sitting free in my driveway at the moment so I can snap a pic of just about anything.
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  #13  
Old 08-10-2010, 05:53 PM
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You always have to unhook the trans lines regardless of which way you do it, leaving it in isn't saving you any ATF.
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