nothing will burn out if you jump the wrong wire in the box. it will either turn the motor, or not. if it does not turn, use a different wire.

On mine if I take a good looke at the Terminal block I see that the 2 screws and wires closest to the Batter are bot (+). As you go forward there is a tiny plastic Wall.
On the other side of the Wall is one Screw with a White and Purple Wire.

You will be connecting any of the 2 towards the rear to the one screw in the front.

You can just use a Wire to bridge the 2 sides but evertime you make contact it may spark and that is normal. However, everytime it sparks it is going to slighlty burn the Screw Head/s.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

It sounds like I should probably look into some sort of a switch then.

Since I was running out of working time I started working on taking off the fan since that seemed to be a common theme for easy crank access. Lost a 10mm wrench to a cut knuckle that bounced behind the harmonic balancer bit on the crank.

So now I'm working on taking off the alternator and the housing for the alternator so that I can hopefully reach behind and grab it. The round part of the wrench is somehow behind a screw that won't let me pull it out at the angle that I've got available, using 2 claw hands and 2 magnetic grabbers.

Sigh. Now I have to drive the woman to work tomorrow and lose out on a morning on getting the alternator off.

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1982 300TD 300,??? miles, daily driver turned donor
1982 300TD, 184,000 miles, daily driver

I'll put in a seventh or eighth vote that the remote starter switch is probably your best bet.

This makes me grateful for the fact that my 240 is stick shift. We just put it in 4th gear and turn the engine by pulling or pushing the car an inch at a time.

Good luck digging the wrench out. You MIGHT want to consider disconnecting the battery. There are some fairly heavy duty wires coming to and from the alternator. Although they SHOULD be insulated (one would hope) I'm sure there are plenty of places you could find while digging around for a metal wrench with metal tools to short out. You'd then have a 12v arc welder made with your wrench. Just a fairly simple precaution since you're working near the thing and know there's a metal tool floating near 12v alternator wiring and terminals, etc.

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~Michael S.~
Past cars:

1986 300SDL
1987 300SDL
1982 240D
1982 300SD


Current:

1987 300SDL

aack.
do not hook your switch to ground of any kind!~!!!

you want to connect to the screws in the junction block on the fender! if you connect to ground you will melt either your wires, or the switch you use, and you can explode your battery!!!!!

ONLY hook to the wires INSIDE the junction block!~!!!

they are all positive. and one is to the solenoid switch on the starter! very little power draw!

__________________
John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 560SL convertible
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
2005 Dodge Sprinter 2500 158"WB
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!

Does the transmission need to be in neutral?

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'85 Euro 300D - 258k 4 spd manual
'85 300TD Wagon - 180k - SOLD
Always looking

Automatic transmission: during a valve adjustment, you either want it in Park, or else in neutral with the parking brake on, so that if the car accidentally starts, it can't roll over you. If you are using a starter switch (wired correctly) this is extremely important. The odds of starting the engine by turning the crank by hand with a socket are slim to none.


Manual transmission: You want it in gear IF AND ONLY IF you are moving the crank by pushing the car while the gears are engaged. OTHERWISE the same rules as automatic transmission apply. Ensure that you are not going to accidentally run over yourself by placing the stick in neutral and applying the parking brake so that if the car accidentally starts, it won't move.

__________________


~Michael S.~
Past cars:

1986 300SDL
1987 300SDL
1982 240D
1982 300SD


Current:

1987 300SDL

The first thing I did before fishing for the lost tool was disconnect the battery.

I guess that I'll be hitting one of the auto places tomorrow to get a proper remote start switch. Then valve adjustments will be pretty quick and easy.

Tomorrow I'll also finish pulling off the alternator, hopefully that'll be enough for me to get the clearance that I need. I was going to rotate the crank just a tiny bit to see if the tool got a bit more unjammed, but I realized that the socket might get pinched, and the crank only goes clockwise, so I'd have to take the whole front pulley assembly off to get at it if it were to get more stuck.

__________________
1982 300TD 300,??? miles, daily driver turned donor
1982 300TD, 184,000 miles, daily driver

It depends a bit on the engine, it is either a deep socket 27 mm or a normal socket 27 mm with a very short extension, and a straight ratchet, not a curved one. This is when you keep the shroud and the fan in place.

If you remove the fan and if the fan has a fan clutch, keep the fan upright, otherwise the fan clutch will be damaged.

You don't have to lock the IP before pulling it.

After removal the IP crankshaft has to be turned so that the marking is lined up with the fourth tooth left of the indent, around that spot the lock locks:



A bunch of oil will come out if you remove the bolt to insert the lock.

Is this an IP off a 606. I recall the same set-up on my OM615 boat-diesel? Reading posts on procedure pertaining to the 606 it reads much more complicated.

No, this is a MW IP from a 1983 300 turbodiesel.

There might be a locking screw for the OM615, but you can install the IP without one.