Does the transmission need to be in neutral?

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'85 Euro 300D - 258k 4 spd manual
'85 300TD Wagon - 180k - SOLD
Always looking

Automatic transmission: during a valve adjustment, you either want it in Park, or else in neutral with the parking brake on, so that if the car accidentally starts, it can't roll over you. If you are using a starter switch (wired correctly) this is extremely important. The odds of starting the engine by turning the crank by hand with a socket are slim to none.


Manual transmission: You want it in gear IF AND ONLY IF you are moving the crank by pushing the car while the gears are engaged. OTHERWISE the same rules as automatic transmission apply. Ensure that you are not going to accidentally run over yourself by placing the stick in neutral and applying the parking brake so that if the car accidentally starts, it won't move.

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~Michael S.~
Past cars:

1986 300SDL
1987 300SDL
1982 240D
1982 300SD


Current:

1987 300SDL

The first thing I did before fishing for the lost tool was disconnect the battery.

I guess that I'll be hitting one of the auto places tomorrow to get a proper remote start switch. Then valve adjustments will be pretty quick and easy.

Tomorrow I'll also finish pulling off the alternator, hopefully that'll be enough for me to get the clearance that I need. I was going to rotate the crank just a tiny bit to see if the tool got a bit more unjammed, but I realized that the socket might get pinched, and the crank only goes clockwise, so I'd have to take the whole front pulley assembly off to get at it if it were to get more stuck.

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1982 300TD 300,??? miles, daily driver turned donor
1982 300TD, 184,000 miles, daily driver

Diesel911, I have to ask someone for help I need desperately to get my 99 300td back on the road. Had the head off for extracting 4 broken GP's. At the same time had a valve job. Prior to removing the head I checked the timing it was less than 1 deg.. Marked chain and sprocket with paint. The head is back on but unable to match the marks, it probably needs another revolution to make it match. The problem, I can't crank beyond a certain point. Going back it stops at a certain point as well. You or someone may have the answer I would much appreciate.

You've installed the camshaft significantly out of time with the crank and one of the valves is hitting the top of a piston.

You must figure out your error and correct it prior to doing anything else.

Whatever you do, DO NOT use the starter until you are positive that the engine rotates through 720 degrees BY HAND.

It depends a bit on the engine, it is either a deep socket 27 mm or a normal socket 27 mm with a very short extension, and a straight ratchet, not a curved one. This is when you keep the shroud and the fan in place.

If you remove the fan and if the fan has a fan clutch, keep the fan upright, otherwise the fan clutch will be damaged.

The camshaft BASE timing is seriously off.

You need to set the crankshaft back to TDC, and reset the mechanical timing again.

If you need more heavy technical data on the procedure, send me an e-mail with Year, model and VIN#, including a brief description of what is needed.

You have an e-mail waiting on your hotmail account.

.

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Brian, what is the best approach to the problem. You are right, the pistons hitting the valves. Taken the cams off again and the engine is free wheeling again, set it back on TDC. What now? Do my paint marks still play some roll of importance? Obviously, it has to be timed with the cams, but can't install cams without running into the same problem again, colliding with the pistons? As mentioned, any morsel of advise is appreciated

The cams must be installed on TDC = when the chain is tight all timing marks MUST line up.
.
Before the chain tensioner can be installed:
* All timing chain tension MUST be on the driver side of the engine.
* All chain slack MUST be on the passenger side of the engine.

If you need more data, contact me.


.

1999 300TD 123K miles. Vin #WDBJF25H4XA770301

Thanks! Before I removed the head the crank was on TDC and all timing marks on cams properly set. The reason I removed the head was to drill out 4 broken off GP's. In the process I suspected that some hard chips may have fallen into the intake. Subsequently checked the top of the pistons and cranked to check the cylinder walls. Of what I know now that was a mistake, it screwed up the timing. Not too sure what is worse: screwed up timing or peace of mind that nothing was hurt internally. Anyway, if I install the cams again as originally wouldn't the result be being back on square one?
Right now, the crank is on TDC, not sure if it is on compression Would it be advisable to remove the pre-chamber on #1 to know where it is at? If you say I should re-install cams, have everything in proper order, I would certainly do it since you are the expert.

I have a Mercedes Diesels, OM615 in my sailboat for the past 37 years. Had the head off numerous times and adjusted IP timing as many time and never had the least problem, done by a bloke with no knowledge concerning Diesels. Always thought that all Diesels work on the same principle in and externally. This 606 is driving me crazy. Surely, eventually I have to remove the IP to adjust. If that is the case I might as well get the proper tools. So what, already spent some $250 on special tools what is another $196 for a Basket Assembly 601-589-05-14 00 Rusty quoted. Where will it end. No tears, mind you, just frustration. Just don't give up on me!

Got everything back and working properly. Cranked the engine 720 deg. no problem. What now? Appreciate every morsel of advise. Cheers!

Got everything back and working properly. Cranked the engine 720 deg. no problem. What now? Appreciate every morsel of advise. Cheers!

If it will rotate through 720 degrees, the cam timing is reasonably accurate and you can attempt to start it.

Depending on what you did with the camshaft, the IP might not be timed with the the crankshaft. If so, it will be difficult to start and run very poorly when it does. However, if the chain remained on both the crankshaft and the IP timer, your IP timing won't be affected and it should run fine.

In fact I did remove the chain, explained at an earlier post on this page. The car probably won't start and I wonder if I even should try starting it before timing the IP to the new setting. What do you think should I get the 2 tools to set the IP? Tks for your reply, appreciate it much.

With the above info, it would be best to reseat the IP.

The use of the locking tool would simplify the procedure.


1) Rotate the engine by hand and install the locking tool into the IP. Ensure that it engages the notch. This is somewhat of a PITA and two people are preferred.

2) Pull the IP.

3) Set the engine to 15° ATDC on the #1 compression stroke.

4) Reinstall the IP.



Done.