Crank won't turn for valve adjustment.... - Page 4 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Govert · #46 08-02-2012, 09:59 AM

You don't have to lock the IP before pulling it.

After removal the IP crankshaft has to be turned so that the marking is lined up with the fourth tooth left of the indent, around that spot the lock locks:

A bunch of oil will come out if you remove the bolt to insert the lock.

windjammer · #47 08-02-2012, 07:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Govert

You don't have to lock the IP before pulling it.

After removal the IP crankshaft has to be turned so that the marking is lined up with the second tooth left of the indent, around that spot the lock locks:

A bunch of oil will come out if you remove the bolt to insert the lock.

Is this an IP off a 606. I recall the same set-up on my OM615 boat-diesel? Reading posts on procedure pertaining to the 606 it reads much more complicated.

Govert · #48 08-03-2012, 01:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by windjammer

Is this an IP off a 606. I recall the same set-up on my OM615 boat-diesel? Reading posts on procedure pertaining to the 606 it reads much more complicated.

No, this is a MW IP from a 1983 300 turbodiesel.

There might be a locking screw for the OM615, but you can install the IP without one.

windjammer · #49 08-03-2012, 01:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brian Carlton

If it will rotate through 720 degrees, the cam timing is reasonably accurate and you can attempt to start it.

Depending on what you did with the camshaft, the IP might not be timed with the the crankshaft. If so, it will be difficult to start and run very poorly when it does. However, if the chain remained on both the crankshaft and the IP timer, your IP timing won't be affected and it should run fine.

Thanks! Got the vacuum pump off, disconnected all lines hard and soft from the IP except the plastic pipe at the rear of the IP - removed the wedge, must I use the necessary force to get the pipe out? Waiting for the 2 tools to continue removing the IP. Loosening the l.h. bolt do I need something to counter the r.h. force, how? When do I set the crank at 14deg., before or after placing the Assembly Basket? When to install the locking pin? An answer to these questions will help a lot.

windjammer · #50 08-05-2012, 12:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by whunter

The cams must be installed on TDC = when the chain is tight all timing marks MUST line up.
.
Before the chain tensioner can be installed:
* All timing chain tension MUST be on the driver side of the engine.
* All chain slack MUST be on the passenger side of the engine.

If you need more data, contact me.

.

The same question I posted before, I do again hoping for an answer:

Got the vacuum pump off, disconnected all lines hard and soft from the IP except the plastic pipe at the rear of the IP - removed the wedge, must I use necessary force to get the pipe out, it seems it snaps right back once I got it out some? Waiting for the 2 tools to continue removing the IP. Loosening the l.h. bolt do I need something to counter the r.h. force, how? When do I set the crank at 14deg., before or after placing the Assembly Basket? When to install the locking pin? An answer to these questions will help a lot.

whunter · #51 08-06-2012, 01:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by windjammer

The same question I posted before, I do again hoping for an answer:

Got the vacuum pump off, disconnected all lines hard and soft from the IP except the plastic pipe at the rear of the IP - removed the wedge, must I use necessary force to get the pipe out, it seems it snaps right back once I got it out some? Waiting for the 2 tools to continue removing the IP. Loosening the l.h. bolt do I need something to counter the r.h. force, how? When do I set the crank at 14deg., before or after placing the Assembly Basket? When to install the locking pin? An answer to these questions will help a lot.

A picture would really help.

.