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  #1  
Old 08-28-2010, 12:43 PM
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Crank won't turn for valve adjustment....

It's a great day, so I figured that I'd do the valves for the first time (I haven't owned the car that long). I get to the valves ok, and I'm ready to do the adjustment, but when I turn the power steering pump nut it doesn't turn the engine. The book says that I'm to turn a bolt on the crank, but damned if i can't find this nut, and I went under the car too.

This is not my first valve adjustment, but I gotta figure out a way to get the engine to turn. Any help before I have to put the thing back together?
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  #2  
Old 08-28-2010, 12:56 PM
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Answer

1/2 inch drive, deep 27 MM socket.

In the center of the harmonic balancer is the 27 MM bolt used to turn the engine..
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  #3  
Old 08-28-2010, 12:59 PM
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Harmonic balancer- big thing below the fan water pump bit?
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  #4  
Old 08-28-2010, 01:04 PM
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Crank bolt is a pain too get to. Push down (or pull up) on the p/s pump belt to produce more friction while you try and turn the engine (clockwise).
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  #5  
Old 08-28-2010, 01:09 PM
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I've put a lot of preassure on the belt and it just slips on the crank. I'm going to cuss my way around the balancer. Try that out. Thanks board!
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  #6  
Old 08-28-2010, 01:20 PM
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When I have used the Powersteering Bolt to rotate the Engine I have had to tighten the Power Steering Belt with the Tensioner bolt. This requires measureing how much Belt Tension you already have.
Loosen the Bolt/Nuts that hold the Power Stearing pump on the Bracket and locating the tensioner Bolt; which my case was hidden under one of the A/C Hoses. Don't tighten the Belt anymore than is needed to rotate the Engine.
When done readjust your Powersteering Belt Tension.

Removing the Glow Plugs or Injectors relieves all of the compression and allows the Engine to be rotated easily. When you do your next Valve adjustment you might time it with something like removing the Glow Plugs and reaming or otherwise cleaning the Carbon out of the Glow Plug holes so that they can be done together.
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  #7  
Old 07-29-2012, 07:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diesel911 View Post
When I have used the Powersteering Bolt to rotate the Engine I have had to tighten the Power Steering Belt with the Tensioner bolt. This requires measureing how much Belt Tension you already have.
Loosen the Bolt/Nuts that hold the Power Stearing pump on the Bracket and locating the tensioner Bolt; which my case was hidden under one of the A/C Hoses. Don't tighten the Belt anymore than is needed to rotate the Engine.
When done readjust your Powersteering Belt Tension.

Removing the Glow Plugs or Injectors relieves all of the compression and allows the Engine to be rotated easily. When you do your next Valve adjustment you might time it with something like removing the Glow Plugs and reaming or otherwise cleaning the Carbon out of the Glow Plug holes so that they can be done together.
Diesel911, I have to ask someone for help I need desperately to get my 99 300td back on the road. Had the head off for extracting 4 broken GP's. At the same time had a valve job. Prior to removing the head I checked the timing it was less than 1 deg.. Marked chain and sprocket with paint. The head is back on but unable to match the marks, it probably needs another revolution to make it match. The problem, I can't crank beyond a certain point. Going back it stops at a certain point as well. You or someone may have the answer I would much appreciate.
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  #8  
Old 07-30-2012, 12:33 AM
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Originally Posted by windjammer View Post
Diesel911, I have to ask someone for help I need desperately to get my 99 300td back on the road. Had the head off for extracting 4 broken GP's. At the same time had a valve job. Prior to removing the head I checked the timing it was less than 1 deg.. Marked chain and sprocket with paint. The head is back on but unable to match the marks, it probably needs another revolution to make it match. The problem, I can't crank beyond a certain point. Going back it stops at a certain point as well. You or someone may have the answer I would much appreciate.
You've installed the camshaft significantly out of time with the crank and one of the valves is hitting the top of a piston.

You must figure out your error and correct it prior to doing anything else.

Whatever you do, DO NOT use the starter until you are positive that the engine rotates through 720 degrees BY HAND.
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  #9  
Old 07-30-2012, 05:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Brian Carlton View Post
You've installed the camshaft significantly out of time with the crank and one of the valves is hitting the top of a piston.

You must figure out your error and correct it prior to doing anything else.

Whatever you do, DO NOT use the starter until you are positive that the engine rotates through 720 degrees BY HAND.
Brian, what is the best approach to the problem. You are right, the pistons hitting the valves. Taken the cams off again and the engine is free wheeling again, set it back on TDC. What now? Do my paint marks still play some roll of importance? Obviously, it has to be timed with the cams, but can't install cams without running into the same problem again, colliding with the pistons? As mentioned, any morsel of advise is appreciated
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  #10  
Old 07-31-2012, 02:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by windjammer View Post
Brian, what is the best approach to the problem. You are right, the pistons hitting the valves. Taken the cams off again and the engine is free wheeling again, set it back on TDC. What now? Do my paint marks still play some roll of importance? Obviously, it has to be timed with the cams, but can't install cams without running into the same problem again, colliding with the pistons? As mentioned, any morsel of advise is appreciated
The cams must be installed on TDC = when the chain is tight all timing marks MUST line up.
.
Before the chain tensioner can be installed:
* All timing chain tension MUST be on the driver side of the engine.
* All chain slack MUST be on the passenger side of the engine.

If you need more data, contact me.


.
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  #11  
Old 07-30-2012, 11:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by windjammer View Post
Diesel911, I have to ask someone for help I need desperately to get my 99 300td back on the road. Had the head off for extracting 4 broken GP's. At the same time had a valve job. Prior to removing the head I checked the timing it was less than 1 deg.. Marked chain and sprocket with paint. The head is back on but unable to match the marks, it probably needs another revolution to make it match. The problem, I can't crank beyond a certain point. Going back it stops at a certain point as well. You or someone may have the answer I would much appreciate.
The camshaft BASE timing is seriously off.

You need to set the crankshaft back to TDC, and reset the mechanical timing again.

If you need more heavy technical data on the procedure, send me an e-mail with Year, model and VIN#, including a brief description of what is needed.

You have an e-mail waiting on your hotmail account.

.
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Last edited by whunter; 07-30-2012 at 12:11 PM.
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  #12  
Old 08-01-2012, 08:38 PM
hein
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whunter View Post
The camshaft BASE timing is seriously off.

You need to set the crankshaft back to TDC, and reset the mechanical timing again.

If you need more heavy technical data on the procedure, send me an e-mail with Year, model and VIN#, including a brief description of what is needed.

You have an e-mail waiting on your hotmail account.

.
Got everything back and working properly. Cranked the engine 720 deg. no problem. What now? Appreciate every morsel of advise. Cheers!
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  #13  
Old 08-28-2010, 01:21 PM
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I always use a remote start button connected to these two terminals.
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Crank won't turn for valve adjustment....-connection-points.jpg  
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  #14  
Old 08-28-2010, 01:31 PM
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Yes

Quote:
Originally Posted by Phil View Post
I always use a remote start button connected to these two terminals.
That is the easier way, IMO.
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  #15  
Old 08-28-2010, 02:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phil View Post
I always use a remote start button connected to these two terminals.
This is by far the easiest way. You get much better control if you don't use a push button switch but just a pair of 10 gauge wires with bare ends and touch them together. Just be careful where you lay the wires so they don't short.
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