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#1
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Need 81 300D blower advice, please
Our blower motor has been working less than part time over the summer, in that it kicks on if I turn the ignition key on to pre-start and leave it there for more than 5 seconds. I then 99% of the time kicks off as soon as the engine is fired up. It used to be mainly the AC, but now even the defrost isn't coming on. With cold, rainy weather on the way, I need to do the troubleshooting and get this thing working. I've changed the control panel with a new one (automatic type), checked the fuses, and like I said, it does come on occasionally, but not when I need it. The fact that it is pretty consistent on the pre-starter deal leads me to believe it must be something that would be obvious to anyone who's had this happen before. Can anybody out there share your experience with this problem, or give me a troubleshoot list after replacing the control? Thanks in advance for any help or ideas. And if anybody has a drawing of this system, I'd appreciate it if you could send it to me or show it on this thread. THanks! Lee
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"Knowing is not enough, we must apply. Willing is not enough, we must do." Goethe *********************************** 1951 Chevy 3100 2003 Indian Chief Roadmaster 1983 GMC 1 ton Dually 1982 Chevy 1 ton Dually, service body (sold) '90 GMC Suburban 6.2 "SS Veg-Burban" (single tank WVO\diesel conversion) SOLD '81 300D ~ Mama's car...my job (now my car)(but still my job) SOLD '83 300sd ~ rescue car SOLD 2005 Ford Taurus (Mama's new car)(NOT my job!) |
#2
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could be your ignition switch... make sure the key is centered in the run detent after you start the engine. if so, consider swapping out the ignition lock assembly since that is what is supposed to center those detents. that was my first indication that my lock assembly was going. not hard to change as long as the key still turns, but when it locks and won't turn then there's lots and lots of drilling to do to get it out.
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mjk '84 300SD 119KMi (Liesl der Diesel) '84 300D 326KMi when the oil left (former parts car) '82 300SD 253KMi (new parts car) |
#3
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Whoa! It worked! I can't believe I've been sweating all summer when this was all it took. I put in a new ignition switch this spring, before I needed the AC. It makes sense that if the blower works in the pre-heat position that it would be a possible fix, but I didn't think there would be a possibility of the switch being able to function correctly anywhere but the on spot.
One little bug with this fix is that now, for the first time in months, the engine is running on for 30 seconds or so after shut down when I have the key turned slightly back to CCW to get the AC to work. (Also, in all fairness, the new control module for the HVAC may have had something to do with it, but still, it didn't work, but now it does after your idea. Good enough! Thanks VERY, VERY MUCH micalk! I really appreciate the tip. (Thanks for not passing on your reply. If you wouldn't have written, I'd still be stumped) Lee
__________________
"Knowing is not enough, we must apply. Willing is not enough, we must do." Goethe *********************************** 1951 Chevy 3100 2003 Indian Chief Roadmaster 1983 GMC 1 ton Dually 1982 Chevy 1 ton Dually, service body (sold) '90 GMC Suburban 6.2 "SS Veg-Burban" (single tank WVO\diesel conversion) SOLD '81 300D ~ Mama's car...my job (now my car)(but still my job) SOLD '83 300sd ~ rescue car SOLD 2005 Ford Taurus (Mama's new car)(NOT my job!) |
#4
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Lee-
Thanks for the kind words, both here and elsewhere. I only did what others do here every day - share what I've learned. I tend to steer toward the electrical issues based on my background, so I read the mechanical issues and answer the electrical ones (where I can.) Stick around and you'll get all the info you'll need to keep your car going. When you say you replaced your switch, did you mean the tumbler? That wouldn't help your electrical issues or the detent issue. If you buy a new lock assembly it will come with an electrical switch and a vacuum switch. With a new tumbler, you'll love the way the whole thing operates. Check your current vacuum connections, that may be causing the run-on. Good Luck!
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mjk '84 300SD 119KMi (Liesl der Diesel) '84 300D 326KMi when the oil left (former parts car) '82 300SD 253KMi (new parts car) |
#5
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I just replaced the tumbler. It had jammed once before, and I didn't want to go through the drilling job. Now that the heat has broken with the weather, I'm going to check out the whole car's vacuum lines. I had the run on problem last winter and bought a vacuum solenoid that is to be installed on the drivers side of the engine, close to the glow plug area, so that's going to be done, as well as a valve adjustment.
__________________
"Knowing is not enough, we must apply. Willing is not enough, we must do." Goethe *********************************** 1951 Chevy 3100 2003 Indian Chief Roadmaster 1983 GMC 1 ton Dually 1982 Chevy 1 ton Dually, service body (sold) '90 GMC Suburban 6.2 "SS Veg-Burban" (single tank WVO\diesel conversion) SOLD '81 300D ~ Mama's car...my job (now my car)(but still my job) SOLD '83 300sd ~ rescue car SOLD 2005 Ford Taurus (Mama's new car)(NOT my job!) |
#6
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There is a vacuum switch that will come with the new lock assembly as well as the electrical switch. If you have concerns about being locked out suggest you replace the assembly and swap your new tumbler into it. You won't regret it.
Flying to LA. Gotta go!
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mjk '84 300SD 119KMi (Liesl der Diesel) '84 300D 326KMi when the oil left (former parts car) '82 300SD 253KMi (new parts car) |
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