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#16
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MB's recommendations have their bottom line in mind. Not yours. Do you ever drive with your windows down? Is that a practice positively endorsed by MB? No doubt the profit margin on new rotors is a lot higher than with machined rotors. |
#17
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So you get all of your brake work done at the dealer?
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#18
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In practice, I replace the W123 rotors with every second pair of brake pads (both front and rear). The W123 rotors are just too inexpensive to bother machining, and my experience indicates that a new set will outlast two sets of pads without any performance issues. In this case, I believe the OE recommendation is excessive.
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#19
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That is a totally subjective evaluation and says nothing about the technical feasibility of the practice. Clearly, anyone who finds the practice a "bother" is free to avoid it.
From a technical standpoint, it is entirely possible that a rotor machined on the hub (in the case of front brakes) might have less runout than a new one just installed. |
#20
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#21
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I typically change the rears every other time.
I can only remember changing fronts once... they are much thicker than the rears
__________________
1989 300ce 129k ( facelifted front,updated tail lights, lowered suspension,bilstein sports, lorinser front spoiler, MOMO steering wheel, remus exhaust,stainless steel brake lines). (Gone) 1997 s320 154k (what a ride). Sold with 179k miles. Replaced with Hyundai Equus 1994 e320 Cabriolet 108k 1972 280se 4.5 153k Owned for 12 yrs, sorry I sold it [/SIGPIC] |
#22
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I was just saying what I do in General. As an example if it is going to cost $10 to get a Rotor turned and new ones are $13-$15 I might opt for the new ones. Another issue not mentioned is that when you Measure the Thickness of the Rotors you are measureing the high spots not the bottom of the Groves. And, if you add a little bit of posible warpage that would have to be removed; your measuremt ends up being mostly and Educated Guess concerning if haveing the Roto turned will work or not. Another issue is that Guy that turns the Rotor does not want to do it twice. He is going to make as deep a cut as he feels will get the job done at one time. So I am thinking of all of the above stuff when I am deciding if I am going to have th Rotors Turned or not. No recommendation here but just a story. When I took the Brake and Suspension class in Trade School it was taught by an Instructor who owned his own Brake Shop. He said that in his shop he would reused Rotors that after they were Turned were slightly below the minimun allowed thickness. He said he felt that it was still safe because the minimum thickness on the Rotors had some several thousands of safety margin to them.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#23
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I suspect the reason is may Cars have a lot of Wheel Blearing end play/clearance. If you do not remove the end play/clearance before you turn the Rotor I do not see how the turning job can be accurate. I also do not see how they can line up the Machine accurately either.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#24
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"On the hub" is not the same concept as "on the car."
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#25
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Because to Me a Mercedes is in fact just another Car/machine to me. So when someone tells me something cannot be done I compare it to what is being done with other Cars or vehicles and try to look for a reason why it should not be done on Mercedes. If I cannot find a reason why something I want to do on my Mercedes should not be done I use my best judgment and decide what to do.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#26
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I continue to enjoy the discussion. For myself, it seems that the slightly increased price to replace rather than machine is worth it. I can pick up a pair of Balos or Brembos for $110. What would I get charged to get two rotors properly machined? Whatever the resultant price difference is doesn't seem worth it. But to each his own....
__________________
14 E250 Bluetec "Sinclair", Palladium Silver on Black, 153k miles 06 E320 CDI "Rutherford", Black on Tan, 171k mi, Stage 1 tune, tuned TCU 91 300D "Otis", Smoke Silver, 142k mi, wastegate conversion 19 Honda CR-V EX 61k mi Fourteen other MB's owned and sold 1961 Very Tolerant Wife |
#27
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Machining a rotor should cost about $15.
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#28
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#29
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Answer
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Have a great day.
__________________
ASE Master Mechanic asemastermechanic@juno.com Prototype R&D/testing: Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician. Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH). Dynamometer. Heat exchanger durability. HV-A/C Climate Control. Vehicle build. Fleet Durability Technical Quality Auditor. Automotive Technical Writer 1985 300SD 1983 300D 1984 190D 2003 Volvo V70 2002 Honda Civic https://www.boldegoist.com/ |
#30
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What a timely thread. I have started to feel the pulsing from the brake pedal that would be caused by a warped rotor. If my memory serves me the issue of not turning the rotors was the same on my 89 range Rover (I bought it with 58,000 miles on it) I never saw it writing however everyone I spoke with on that forum said to change them not machine them. So I did. I may go ahead and turn these ( I have access to a quality brake lathe) and report back. The only issue I can see is that I need to tun them and wait while that process is going on. If I buy a new set the whole thing goes smoother and faster. Of course they is only because mine are warped without a doubt. If they were not and were found to be within spec I would just resurface/dress them and save the money.
__________________
92 500E Silver 66k 82 Porsche 911SC 84K 68 Cadillac ( Gone Now ) 03 Suburban Z71 200K 85 300SD 217k From Original Owner ( Dad ) |
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