That red dribble - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

-=DeanstuD=- · #1 08-12-2011, 01:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by whunter

You must use metric compression fittings due to tube size.

Ofcourse. But like I said what size? Granted, I went to autozone, and the MANAGER didn't even know what the heck I was talking about. I had to find them myself and show him.

They didn't have some amazing array of choices, and the boxes are labeled in metric and imperial? (dunno what you call inch) Anyway labeled this way3/8th inch SLASH 9,52 mm.

There was nothing bigger. I figured I would goto ACE and they will have a bigger selection, but it would help to know what I need. Since it is easy, I hoped someone who had done it would know.

Paulc66t · #2 10-07-2010, 09:06 AM

I did a similar repair on my truck when I couldn't locate the correct lines from the dealership or other sources. I went to a brake supply shop and purchased hardlines with the correct fiittings and ID. After bending them into shape(using old lines as a pattern) I joined the front and back using a short section of hose and two clamps on each side. It has held up for 6 months very well.

patbob · #3 10-09-2010, 07:06 PM

Thanks all. I opted for the temporary splice as a repair to get it done before the rainy season started (i.e. today). Here's a few pictures...

That red dribble-squirting_640x480_dscn9363.jpg

The problem, with the engine running. I removed some of the rotten rubber from the bracket and its pretty much squirting ATF now.

That red dribble-holeincoolerline_640x480_dscn9366.jpg

Here's a good picture of the damage. You can see the hole in the cooler line -- its not quite as big around as a pin.

That red dribble-finishedtemporaryrepair_640x480_dscn9378.jpg

The completed repair. The engine's running and not even a drip.

I don't think this solution will last as many years as the original did, so I'm considering it to be temporary. All it needs to do is last until next summer, when I can replace the line altogether.

I don't have pictures, but it looks to me like the bracket was intentionally crimped, probably to tighten it down on the rubber and the tubing. Unfortunately that crimp appears to be the root cause of the problem. It created an inward protrusion that eventually rubbed through the rubber and then the metal of the line. The other side is the same, but not leaking yet. Like JHZR2 did and whunter pretty much recommended, if I get a break in the rain, I'll be replacing the rubber in that one too.. before it causes an identical failure.

-=DeanstuD=- · #4 08-12-2011, 07:25 PM

Well, I am just going to leave the rubber hose I guess. I went to NAPA and Ace and they say there are no metric things that I want. So, hopefully someone who has done it and knows where to get the part will chime in. 'Til then I'll just see how well this 'temp' fix will last.

Not all is lost, as NAPA had diesel purge for $6.99.

SD Blue · #5 08-12-2011, 10:54 PM

I tried the fuel hose fix but didn't have much success with it. The leak was due to the rear-most clamp and the flexing caused the fitting to fracture at the banjo bolt on the side of the transmission. This emptied the pan in a hurry!!

IIRC, the new hard line was ~$50 at the dealer and certainly well worth it, vs. the possibility of being stranded in the middle of west Texas somewhere.