Newbie Question: Upper Control Arm Replacement - Page 5 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

digieditny · #61 10-14-2010, 11:13 AM

All 3 mounts are bad. I need to do those too. I haven't read enough yet to tackle it.
Linkage boots?
The brake fluid was flushed about 3 weeks ago.

BodhiBenz1987 · #62 10-14-2010, 05:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by digieditny

I got hassled by people trying to rip me off and offering me weed but it wasn't too bad. ha

I think there was a point during my epic UCA battle when the latter might have helped.

Well done ... glad everything went smoothly for you!

vstech · #63 10-14-2010, 06:21 PM

linkage boots, the rubber bellows seals covering the tie rods, and ball joints. if they are cracked, you can replace just the boots, if they are torn, the joint itself needs to be replaced. if they are Rust ridden, they need to be replaced SOON!

motor mounts are pretty easy. there are problems to encounter, but similar work to changing the uca's
you have the major tools needed to change them already, the jack and stands.
now you need some allen wrenches, and allen sockets, long and short, and a set with ball ends.

HOWEVER,
IF you need oil cooler hoses, the time to change the hoses is when the mounts are out of the way!

digieditny · #64 10-14-2010, 06:27 PM

AHHHH!!! so much to do!!!

BodhiBenz1987 · #65 10-14-2010, 06:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

motor mounts are pretty easy. there are problems to encounter, but similar work to changing the uca's
you have the major tools needed to change them already, the jack and stands.
now you need some allen wrenches, and allen sockets, long and short, and a set with ball ends.

I was able to do the motor mounts on my 240D without lifting the vehicle ... just keep in mind the car will rise up with the engine a bit at first until the springs are unloaded. I also did the trans mount in my 300D with the car on the ground though it's a bit of a squeeze.

vstech · #66 10-14-2010, 06:32 PM

sure, it's doable, but he has the stands, and the floor jack, so roomy is better.
it's a pain to get that through bolt with the car 6" from the ground!
besides, you're a girl! so you fit in places us MEN need room for!

BodhiBenz1987 · #67 10-14-2010, 06:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

sure, it's doable, but he has the stands, and the floor jack, so roomy is better.
it's a pain to get that through bolt with the car 6" from the ground!
besides, you're a girl! so you fit in places us MEN need room for!

I do have that one advantage.

I'm also a bit shorter than probably most of you guys so it's easier for me to reach the top bolts with the car down too.
General tip when getting to those or other bolts from under the car: Wear safety glasses/goggles ... dirt and rust falls out and does not feel good in your eyes.

vstech · #68 10-14-2010, 06:50 PM

I've moved from the goggles to a FULL FACE shield. it's worth it.
(ask Thayer...)

BodhiBenz1987 · #69 10-14-2010, 07:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

I've moved from the goggles to a FULL FACE shield. it's worth it.
(ask Thayer...)

Good idea. I think I'll follow your lead ... bits keep sneaking past the goggles an I have to spend 20 minutes flushing out my eye. Eyes are very much worth protecting!

digieditny · #70 10-14-2010, 07:35 PM

I recently replaced both complete tie rods. So if I understood you correctly, the linkage boots should be brand new.

K I'll look into doing the motor mounts soon. I purchased all 3 mounts. I also see at Fastlane things called "Engine Shock" & "Engine Shock Mount". Is this something I need as well? Do they go with the Engine mounts?

I think I'm going to tackle my tank strainer next since it's actually giving me problems when my tank is less than half full. I have a new filter just waiting to be installed. This seems like an easy task but looks time consuming because I'll need to drain the fuel tank. I've read that the easiest way to do it is to use clear tubing and put it over the fuel line and drain it to a 5 gallon container. Do you know what size the tube should be so it'll fit over the fuel line?

I have some biocide in hand too to add after I install the new tank strainer.

Yak · #71 10-15-2010, 10:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by digieditny

K I'll look into doing the motor mounts soon. I purchased all 3 mounts. I also see at Fastlane things called "Engine Shock" & "Engine Shock Mount". Is this something I need as well? Do they go with the Engine mounts?

I think I'm going to tackle my tank strainer next since it's actually giving me problems when my tank is less than half full. I have a new filter just waiting to be installed. This seems like an easy task but looks time consuming because I'll need to drain the fuel tank. I've read that the easiest way to do it is to use clear tubing and put it over the fuel line and drain it to a 5 gallon container. Do you know what size the tube should be so it'll fit over the fuel line?

Time to start a new thread for the new tasks:

Engine shocks will get disconnected as part of the engine mount repair, but can be done separately later. They're pricey when you also need the bracket-thing if the rubber is disconnected from the metal.

I'm not sure what you mean by clear tube over the fuel line. There's a technique where you tap off one of the lines under the hood, if that's what you mean.

vstech · #72 10-15-2010, 11:41 PM

a new thread will be better, since you've got the uca under control.
however, if fuel problems occur below 1/2 tank, verify your fuel lines are connected to the right steel lines. if reversed, you could pull from the fuel return line, and below 1/2 tank, you could suck air.