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  #16  
Old 11-01-2010, 10:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vstech View Post
no.
this is a bad practice. smacking the breaker bar is the best way to get them out.
if a PC gets loose this way it would have gotten loose and totally unscrewed itself with steady pressure.

mmm, this is like the "frog up" / "frog down" (a frog is the depression in an english clay brick) debate with brickies.

I have heard adherents to both schools of thought, and both seem to get away with it and get caught out about the same amount, so there doesn't seem to be a lot in it.

There is also the "pull when hot" and "pull when cold" schools, which also seems to split fairly evenly in efficacy.

Myself, I prefer the steady pressure method, the jerk method is after all what a windy gun uses... plus you get the "feel" doing it by hand.

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  #17  
Old 11-01-2010, 10:36 AM
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FWIW, I did pull the injectors with the engine hot.
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  #18  
Old 11-01-2010, 10:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4thesporty View Post
FWIW, I did pull the injectors with the engine hot.
Daring, I wouldnt have. Diesel+Heat is a bad combo though it takes more then engine heat (I hope) to set off Diesel, I still wouldnt have.
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  #19  
Old 11-01-2010, 11:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Aquaticedge View Post
Daring, I wouldnt have. Diesel+Heat is a bad combo though it takes more then engine heat (I hope) to set off Diesel, I still wouldnt have.

????? you can drop a lit match or lit cigarette into cold diesel and it will go out....

Diesel has to be raised to 250-275 degrees C to burn... you could spray diesel on an engine block all day long and never start a fire, a *real* hot running on full song exhaust manifold will ignite diesel, usually, but that's about it.

Why do you think it takes > 17:1 CR and a warm block to ignite diesel reliably and properly...
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  #20  
Old 11-01-2010, 12:01 PM
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Yea, i was a boiler tech in the Navy. We "lit off" boilers with basically a long, lit q-tip and stuck it inside with fuel and air already going.

A good trick for a new junior officer observing a boiler being lit was to throw your lit cigarette into the bucket that is full of DFM (marine diesel fuel) and watch them jump about 10 feet and watch as the diesel just extenguished the cigarette
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  #21  
Old 11-01-2010, 12:48 PM
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My sister is a Diesel head of the VW verity, she called me one day because her friend had an old Diesel Rabbit that he ran out of fuel. I got on the phone with her friend and explained how to bleed injectors. about a week later I asked my sister if her friend got his car going. she said no, he burned up the starter and then sold the car. I said "WHAT???" she explained that he never cracked the injector lines because he was afraid of having fuel on his hot engine and having an engine fire.... SO instead he trashed his car???

Don't Fear the Diesel!!
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  #22  
Old 11-06-2010, 08:55 PM
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I did some work on the car today.

I have new heat shields and was planning on replacing them, but first I wanted to put a proper torque wrench on the injectors. I had previously used a HF wrench.

I put my borrowed (calibrated) snap-on on them and they were all a good 10 ft/lbs too loose.

I will drive it like this and keep an eye and if need be, will be replacing heat shields next weekend.

BTW: The injectors were noisy for about 100 miles, now are fine and the power increase is amazing! I had to adjust the bowden cable as the car was shifting too late with the new injectors.
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  #23  
Old 11-07-2010, 09:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4thesporty View Post
I did some work on the car today.

I have new heat shields and was planning on replacing them, but first I wanted to put a proper torque wrench on the injectors. I had previously used a HF wrench.

I put my borrowed (calibrated) snap-on on them and they were all a good 10 ft/lbs too loose.

I will drive it like this and keep an eye and if need be, will be replacing heat shields next weekend.

BTW: The injectors were noisy for about 100 miles, now are fine and the power increase is amazing! I had to adjust the bowden cable as the car was shifting too late with the new injectors.
since you have new heat shields anyway, if your prechamber continues to leak, remove the injectors and re torque the prechambers. Thats what I did recently when I swapped injectors. I think all but one of them were tight as they should be anyway. I used a Matco torque wrench (actually made by cooper tools i think). Maybe you should return the HF wrench?

If you already installed the new return lines, it wouldn't hurt to re use them since they are only a few days old. If they leak though, remove them again and cut off a cm from each end, and replace them.
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  #24  
Old 11-07-2010, 01:08 PM
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Thanks,

I'm going to watch them this week and see what happens. I need to source a socket to torque the PC if need be though, is the tool rental program still going?

EDIT: Here is a snippet from the tool rental list, which one do I need?

34) Prechamber ring wrench, pin type, 60X, 61X....Billybob............................$15

35) Prechamber ring wrench, spline type, 60X.......Billybob............................$10

36) Prechamber removal tool, slide hammer...........Billybob............................$20

37) Prechamber removal tool, screw press, 61X.....Billybob............................$25.
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  #25  
Old 11-07-2010, 01:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by W124 E300D View Post
mmm, this is like the "frog up" / "frog down" (a frog is the depression in an english clay brick) debate with brickies.

I have heard adherents to both schools of thought, and both seem to get away with it and get caught out about the same amount, so there doesn't seem to be a lot in it.

There is also the "pull when hot" and "pull when cold" schools, which also seems to split fairly evenly in efficacy.

Myself, I prefer the steady pressure method, the jerk method is after all what a windy gun uses... plus you get the "feel" doing it by hand.
The night before removing Injectors spray some Penatrating Oil around the Injector Threads (keep the Oil away from the Prechamber Ring outer threads).
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  #26  
Old 01-10-2011, 12:11 PM
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Got some work done on this finally!

I did a valve adjustment yesterday and figured that while I was in there I would mess with the injectors. I pulled all the injectors and cleaned the PC very well using PB blaster and a dental pick. Then, using my borrowed PC locking ring tool, I re-torqued all the locking collars back, three of five were loose. Hopefully this will take care of my leaks. I then installed new heat shields and torqued them all to 50 ft/lbs.

I noticed that cylinder 3 had heavy carbon deposits down in the PC, more on this later.

During the valve adjustment, all my exhaust valves were a little tight. (I do an adjustment every January, I drive ~10,000 miles/year) Also cylinder 3's intake valve was very tight. Could this be the reason that cylinder had the heavy carbon deposits?

Should I run some diesel purge to help clean that up? Or perhaps some "spirited" runs on the highway? Thoughts?

I now need to clean up the engine bay of fuel and check for leaks again, but the car starts and runs much better now.
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  #27  
Old 01-10-2011, 07:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4thesporty View Post
BTW: The injectors were noisy for about 100 miles, now are fine and the power increase is amazing!
where did you buy the new complete monark injectors?
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  #28  
Old 01-10-2011, 08:38 PM
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Can't wait to get mine in. Bought a set from C Sean Watts
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  #29  
Old 01-10-2011, 09:39 PM
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Oh crap! I've been adjusting my injector bodies and injectors to 70-80 ft-lbs
At first I was thinking the OP was not torquing them down enough but when no one mentioned anything about that, I checked the spec and...DOH!
I know the difference between the two scales and I even know that MB specs out everything metric. I was working off my memory and now I know not to trust it.
I'm lucky I didn't break or strip the injectors or the head.
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  #30  
Old 01-10-2011, 10:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by punkinfair View Post
where did you buy the new complete monark injectors?

member C sean watts

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