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#1
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EGR- How do you "do away" with it?
I was going to remove and clean my EGR valve yesterday, then I remembered hearing multiple owners commenting on how it's not really needed, and they remove\block theirs. I can't seem to find any posts on it on the search tool, though. Can anyone give me some opinions or help on this? Thanks.
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"Knowing is not enough, we must apply. Willing is not enough, we must do." Goethe *********************************** 1951 Chevy 3100 2003 Indian Chief Roadmaster 1983 GMC 1 ton Dually 1982 Chevy 1 ton Dually, service body (sold) '90 GMC Suburban 6.2 "SS Veg-Burban" (single tank WVO\diesel conversion) SOLD '81 300D ~ Mama's car...my job (now my car)(but still my job) SOLD '83 300sd ~ rescue car SOLD 2005 Ford Taurus (Mama's new car)(NOT my job!) |
#2
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On an 81, just for emissions and controls nothing. On later models it can throw a code ('96-up?).
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![]() Gone to the dark side - Jeff |
#3
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If memory serves, you have 2 options. Find and purchase a non egr manifold.
or make a block off plate out of a piece of aluminum plate. The block off doesnt need to emulate the gasket shape perfectly, just cover the hole and provide something for the 2 bolts to grab hold off. Using hightemp RTV should do the job of sealing. Next the pipe side, its best to use something "coin shaped" inside the factory clamp, again with hightemp RTV. Remove the vacuum line and its associated control and SHAZAM ! you are living EGR free. Enjoy. When you are done be sure to remove the tag from your mattress. Its liberating.
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85 300D 3 pedal. Current project. 83 300TD (need rear wiper assembly dead or alive) 84 300SD Daily driver 85 300TD almost 400k miles and driven daily. 98 E300D *sold 86 300SDL *sold and made flawless 10 hour journey to new home. ![]() |
#4
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I dunno why folks make this so complicated :
ALL OM616 & OM617 engines : Just jamb a BB into the vacuum hose leading to the EGR valve and that's it ~ even if the nosey State Inspector pops the hood , he'll never know and you'll never get a ticket nor will it ever be a problem and yes , ' Non Compliance ' tickets DO happen and many don't want to buy your old car if it's missing parts no matter how much better it is to have them gone... If you're supremely lazy , just remove the hose leading from the themostatic control valve to the EGR valve and be done with it .
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-Nate 1982 240D 408,XXX miles Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better |
#5
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Not being extremely lazy, but more of the "Gotta mess with it" group, I prefer to have a box of "removed stuff" on the shelf and have various mods because "I could".
I am also fond of the notion that a less cluttered engine bay makes for inner peace.
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85 300D 3 pedal. Current project. 83 300TD (need rear wiper assembly dead or alive) 84 300SD Daily driver 85 300TD almost 400k miles and driven daily. 98 E300D *sold 86 300SDL *sold and made flawless 10 hour journey to new home. ![]() |
#6
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Of course ;
![]() I'm just one of hose cobby old Mechanics who hates " extra parts " although I have way too many I've collected and keep handy ' just in case ' ~ those really are" extra " not ' gone missing ' from my personal rig ![]()
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-Nate 1982 240D 408,XXX miles Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better |
#7
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Buy a 79 SD. They didn't have EGR valves.
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1977 300d 70k--sold 08 1985 300TD 185k+ 1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03 1985 409d 65k--sold 06 1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car 1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11 1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper 1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4 1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13 |
#8
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I like the BB idea. Cheap, easy and no mess. (Except the oil that's all over the EGR valve. BTW, after spraying it down with PB Blaster yesterday when I was doing my valve adjustment, the car seems to be shifting better today. (It hasn't been wanting to shift from 2nd to 3rd, or 3rd to 4th without letting off the gas "more than normal".) Could that be from the cleaner EGR, or from the valves being adjusted?
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"Knowing is not enough, we must apply. Willing is not enough, we must do." Goethe *********************************** 1951 Chevy 3100 2003 Indian Chief Roadmaster 1983 GMC 1 ton Dually 1982 Chevy 1 ton Dually, service body (sold) '90 GMC Suburban 6.2 "SS Veg-Burban" (single tank WVO\diesel conversion) SOLD '81 300D ~ Mama's car...my job (now my car)(but still my job) SOLD '83 300sd ~ rescue car SOLD 2005 Ford Taurus (Mama's new car)(NOT my job!) |
#9
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Quote:
__________________
1977 300d 70k--sold 08 1985 300TD 185k+ 1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03 1985 409d 65k--sold 06 1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car 1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11 1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper 1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4 1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13 |
#10
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1996 W210 E300d EGR bypass
I have a 1996 E300D. I did a bypass which should have no effect on fault codes and also ensures clean air delivery to the EGR. This is done by:
1. remove the metal connection tube; use a pretty thin piece of metal/aluminum to cover the exhaust side connection - retaining the use of the factory clamp. Use high temp RTV or ceramic wool insulation for a gasket... 2. Next, cut off about a 3" long section of the metal tube (from the longer end). 3. Bore a hole in the air cleaner box, above the air filter - about 1" diameter, in order for the newly cut tube end to pass snugly. Using RTV again, insert the tube end from the inside of the air box out, using RTV to seal/lock it in place. Allow to dry overnight. 4. Buy a 24" x 1" diameter rubber auto grade hose. Reconnect the original factory connection to the inlet of the EGR. Install a hose clamps to each tube end, slip the hose on and tighten. You now have a guaranteed clean air supply to the EGR. I will not get into the benefits of a high grade air filter in use with an EGR dumping LOADS of crap and soot into the intake after this filter... Good luck! Scott |
#11
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Quote:
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green 85 300SD 200K miles "Das Schlepper Frog" With a OM603 TBO360 turbo ( To be intercooled someday ![]() ![]() ![]() white 79 300SD 200K'ish miles "Farfegnugen" (RIP - cracked crank) desert storm primer 63 T-bird "The Undead" (long term hibernation) http://ecomodder.com/forum/fe-graphs/sig692a.png |
#12
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I tried the bb, but then I thought, "hmmm, how do I know the valve is closing properly?" So I made a plate that goes between the intake and the valve out of some Al. Then once I had gone that far, I figured I might as well get rid of those extraneous vacuum lines and whatnot. I have never had any official of any kind look under my hood, and I have no reason to expect it, but I do have all the stock crap, so I guess I could put it back if I HAD to. I don't see it happening out here in the non-DEQ boonies.
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'82 300SD - Somewhere over 220k - Becoming reliable... |
#13
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No ;
It's better because now you use less throttle to go the same speed so the linkages are all working in concert like they're supposed to . This is why one *must* dot every 'i' and cross every 't' before tearing into anything else when you're faced with a problem .
__________________
-Nate 1982 240D 408,XXX miles Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better |
#14
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If you don't like the look of the valve underhood, I still offer the kits to remove it completely.
If you are OK with the look, just disconnect and plug the vacuum hose that leads to the valve. The valve cannot open and EGR is effectively eliminated. This only works on the older vehicles that don't have computer controlled EGR (all vehicles '87 and prior). |
#15
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If this saves me some time, do tell.
and the picture above doesnt show the tube connector being blocked. What of that part? I have seen a coin shaped piece used to block this with the factory clamp.
__________________
85 300D 3 pedal. Current project. 83 300TD (need rear wiper assembly dead or alive) 84 300SD Daily driver 85 300TD almost 400k miles and driven daily. 98 E300D *sold 86 300SDL *sold and made flawless 10 hour journey to new home. ![]() |
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