Repairing Zebrano Wood Cracks - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

busman1965 · #1 11-26-2010, 09:16 PM

My new 300TD is suffering with the usual cracks in some of the Zebrano wood on the console, so I decided to see what could be done to fix it.

I found some of the veneers were loose, and there were cracks in the finish, so I re-glued the veneer together with 5 min. epoxy. Then started filling in the cracks on the surface with Superglue, until the cracks were completely filled.

After the glue dried, I sanded the glue carefully with 200 grit, so as not to cut through the original finish, then wet-sanded (fine grit) the glue are till it blends smoothly with the original finish.

After letting everything dry overnight, I lightly sanded the entire piece, and sprayed a light coat of lacquer over the whole piece, and buffed when dry.

The results are, the cracks completly disappear, and the wood stays the original color and look.

I developed this method to repair vintage guitar finishes , several decades ago, and have used it dozens of times with great sucess. It can be done in spots, if lacquer is used, as it can be feathered and buffed in to the existing finish.

I thought I would pass this on, as it might save an original piece of wood, which would otherwise be replaced.

vstech · #2 11-26-2010, 09:26 PM

N.F.W!!!!
super glue? really?
hatterasguy did a bit of refinishing a few years ago, this Sounds MUCH MUCH easier.
how long will the SG hold up?

1stbenznc · #3 11-26-2010, 09:47 PM

WOW! I need to try this on scrap piece and see what happens. I could refinish most of my wood within a day this way.

Do you bend the wood a little to allow the superglue down into the cracks or will it just absorb down into the cracks on its own? Guessing you use the liquid version and not the thicker gel style?

Lastly, When you say "spray" lacquer - do you mean from a spray can or did you mix up clear lacquer and use an air gun?

Biodiesel300TD · #4 11-26-2010, 10:29 PM

Did you take any pics of the before and after?

andrewjtx · #5 11-26-2010, 10:35 PM

Eagerly awaiting more details...

Sev · #6 11-26-2010, 11:07 PM

yeah, without pics, anyone can claim they fixed anything with super glue: blown tire, valve cover gasket, hose leak, etc.

1stbenznc · #7 11-26-2010, 11:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sev

yeah, without pics, anyone can claim they fixed anything with super glue: blown tire, valve cover gasket, hose leak, etc.

WTF!- Give him the benefit of the doubt and let him respond.

mach0415 · #8 11-27-2010, 04:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sev

yeah, without pics, anyone can claim they fixed anything with super glue: blown tire, valve cover gasket, hose leak, etc.

Spun rod bearing, cracked block, trap oxidizer, timing chain...

- just havin' fun with the potential superglue usages.

Seriously. This type of thing DOES work. When I was in the paint and body business, I used superglue for simple touch-ups on stone chips. It seems to hold up to UV just fine. If anyone wants extra peace of mind, I suppose one could make the superglue repair and then spray with a rattle can of polyurethane clear coat for extra UV protection. For some wood pieces that have separated from the aluminum backing plate, they may have to be reformed or re-veneered.

micalk · #9 11-27-2010, 06:03 PM

I had just reglued my ash tray with Gorilla Glue Super Glue. I used too much glue and two big globs leaked out onto the finish and actually onto the rubber pads of the clamps. I had glued the clamps to my ash tray!

After reading these posts I took my dremel tool and carefully whittled away at the glue using a small sandpaper cylinder, a reamer, a 180 grit sandpaper wheel and I made a 600 grit sandpaper wheel. After working on both spots about an hour I took the 600 grit wet/dry and hand sanded a bit, then wet sanded a bit. Finally I took a felt buffer and some rubbing compound and polished it out. The finish isn't lacquer smooth, but it's all shiny now, and for where it's going to sit no-one will ever notice.

Thanks for the post. I never would have believed it could work out so well.

vstech · #10 11-26-2010, 11:19 PM

sev, are you seriously making a statement about the validity of someone's claim? and requesting pics?

busman1965 · #11 11-26-2010, 11:42 PM

First off, I understand being doubtful, but it really does work.
I have been using this exact process for decades. When completed, it will last as long as the rest of the finish will. I have a 1940's guitar I repaired over 20 years ago, this exact way, and it still looks fantastic, so it does last.

I will post some pics, when I get a chance, its hard to do, as the cracks dont photograph real well, but the finished piece should show very well.

I use the cheap liquid superglue, not the gel, and I do flex the wood, to allow it to flow as deep as possible.

As for the lacquer, the regular clear stuff in a spray can works fine. I usually put a good amount on, and then wet sand it down to a real smooth surface, then buff it out with rubbing compound. It will shine like new if done right.

Also, if the edges of the veneer are curling away from the back, put some glue behind them, then clamp it down to a board that is flat, this will help straighten them out a bit.

This beats trying to refinish the whole piece, just to fix a couple small cracks!!

Just try it, its really easy to do, and cheap.

I will shoot a couple pics tomorrow,so you can see the results.

busman1965 · #12 11-26-2010, 11:59 PM

Here are a couple of shots of a piece I just finished building up the cracks with superglue, I will show it as it progresses tomorrow.

vstech · #13 11-27-2010, 12:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by busman1965

First off, I understand being doubtful, but it really does work.
I have been using this exact process for decades. When completed, it will last as long as the rest of the finish will. I have a 1940's guitar I repaired over 20 years ago, this exact way, and it still looks fantastic, so it does last.

I will post some pics, when I get a chance, its hard to do, as the cracks dont photograph real well, but the finished piece should show very well.

I use the cheap liquid superglue, not the gel, and I do flex the wood, to allow it to flow as deep as possible.

As for the lacquer, the regular clear stuff in a spray can works fine. I usually put a good amount on, and then wet sand it down to a real smooth surface, then buff it out with rubbing compound. It will shine like new if done right.

Also, if the edges of the veneer are curling away from the back, put some glue behind them, then clamp it down to a board that is flat, this will help straighten them out a bit.

This beats trying to refinish the whole piece, just to fix a couple small cracks!!

Just try it, its really easy to do, and cheap.

I will shoot a couple pics tomorrow,so you can see the results.

a significant difference is the guitars are not exposed to sunlight on a regular basis...
I'm sure it's a good treatment for the cracks we all have, but I'd love to see how it survives in a car for much time!

LandYaghtLover · #14 11-27-2010, 12:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

a significant difference is the guitars are not exposed to sunlight on a regular basis...
I'm sure it's a good treatment for the cracks we all have, but I'd love to see how it survives in a car for much time!

Well if it works, it works and at the very least will give a couple years without cracks. Then back to square one anyway. Then again, those cracks may not come back - but others will!

Sev · #15 11-27-2010, 12:00 AM

"I have a 1940's guitar I repaired over 20 years ago, this exact way, and it still looks fantastic, so it does last."

you should go into the wood restoration business. armed with only some hand tools and a large vat of super glue