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  #16  
Old 11-27-2010, 03:30 AM
is thinning the herd
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sev View Post
"I have a 1940's guitar I repaired over 20 years ago, this exact way, and it still looks fantastic, so it does last."

you should go into the wood restoration business. armed with only some hand tools and a large vat of super glue

I find it hilarious that you're questioning someones business... by asking for pics of their work. If he pulled a picture off of ebay and sent it to you, would that do it for you? Seems to work for you. You're a class act. .

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  #17  
Old 11-27-2010, 09:33 AM
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Thanks busman1965 for posting the tip about super glue. I will try it soon. Items like this are why I read this forum every day!
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  #18  
Old 11-27-2010, 10:32 AM
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You've sold me.
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  #19  
Old 11-27-2010, 11:25 AM
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Ok, just to prove this works, here are some pics of the finished piece, from last night. This is without using the spary lacquer, just filling with superglue, sanding, then wet sanding, and finally buffing with rubbing compound.

The lacquer is not really needed on small spots, only larger repairs. The small spots can be blended and buffed to match the original finish.

The first 2 shots are after wet sanding till smooth, the second 2 are the results after buffing by hand for a couple mins.
Attached Thumbnails
Repairing Zebrano Wood Cracks-p-002.jpg   Repairing Zebrano Wood Cracks-p-001.jpg   Repairing Zebrano Wood Cracks-p-003.jpg   Repairing Zebrano Wood Cracks-p-004.jpg  
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  #20  
Old 11-27-2010, 11:28 AM
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The pics are not the greatest, as it is hard to shoot a small glossy item.
But, it looks darn good in my dash!!!
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  #21  
Old 11-27-2010, 12:25 PM
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That's amazing!
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  #22  
Old 11-27-2010, 01:56 PM
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I shall have to try this too. The MB stuff is SO thick with coating that to re-do would take time and skill that I do not have with wood work.

Thanks much.
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  #23  
Old 11-27-2010, 02:24 PM
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This technique certainly looks good enough to sell the car with a "no wood cracks" feature.
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  #24  
Old 11-27-2010, 02:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by busman1965 View Post
My new 300TD is suffering with the usual cracks in some of the Zebrano wood on the console, so I decided to see what could be done to fix it.

I found some of the veneers were loose, and there were cracks in the finish, so I re-glued the veneer together with 5 min. epoxy. Then started filling in the cracks on the surface with Superglue, until the cracks were completely filled.

After the glue dried, I sanded the glue carefully with 200 grit, so as not to cut through the original finish, then wet-sanded (fine grit) the glue are till it blends smoothly with the original finish.

After letting everything dry overnight, I lightly sanded the entire piece, and sprayed a light coat of lacquer over the whole piece, and buffed when dry.

The results are, the cracks completly disappear, and the wood stays the original color and look.

I developed this method to repair vintage guitar finishes , several decades ago, and have used it dozens of times with great sucess. It can be done in spots, if lacquer is used, as it can be feathered and buffed in to the existing finish.

I thought I would pass this on, as it might save an original piece of wood, which would otherwise be replaced.
I don't understand why some are so skeptical! I plan to try it! Not too much effort and if it doesn't work you're no worse off than before you started.

But how about some more details. Dry sand with 200 grit? What was the fine grit for the final wet sand? I have a couple of spots where the finish has peeled off leaving the bare wood. Suggestions for these spots? Spray laquer and sand the edges?
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  #25  
Old 11-27-2010, 03:53 PM
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Nice, I am sold! I have read various posts about completely stripping , etc -this looks like a quick fast way to get a good result-thanks! I will give it a shot!
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  #26  
Old 11-27-2010, 04:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sev View Post
yeah, without pics, anyone can claim they fixed anything with super glue: blown tire, valve cover gasket, hose leak, etc.
Spun rod bearing, cracked block, trap oxidizer, timing chain... - just havin' fun with the potential superglue usages.

Seriously. This type of thing DOES work. When I was in the paint and body business, I used superglue for simple touch-ups on stone chips. It seems to hold up to UV just fine. If anyone wants extra peace of mind, I suppose one could make the superglue repair and then spray with a rattle can of polyurethane clear coat for extra UV protection. For some wood pieces that have separated from the aluminum backing plate, they may have to be reformed or re-veneered.
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  #27  
Old 11-27-2010, 06:03 PM
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I had just reglued my ash tray with Gorilla Glue Super Glue. I used too much glue and two big globs leaked out onto the finish and actually onto the rubber pads of the clamps. I had glued the clamps to my ash tray!

After reading these posts I took my dremel tool and carefully whittled away at the glue using a small sandpaper cylinder, a reamer, a 180 grit sandpaper wheel and I made a 600 grit sandpaper wheel. After working on both spots about an hour I took the 600 grit wet/dry and hand sanded a bit, then wet sanded a bit. Finally I took a felt buffer and some rubbing compound and polished it out. The finish isn't lacquer smooth, but it's all shiny now, and for where it's going to sit no-one will ever notice.

Thanks for the post. I never would have believed it could work out so well.
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  #28  
Old 11-27-2010, 06:14 PM
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I'll give this a go. Between this and my new console pin, I should end up with a nice console piece.
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  #29  
Old 11-27-2010, 06:16 PM
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I'm game for Giving this a whack. mine isnt cracked too bad, I'll post pictures before durning and after
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  #30  
Old 11-27-2010, 08:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aquaticedge View Post
I'm game for Giving this a whack. mine isnt cracked too bad, I'll post pictures before durning and after
ditto!

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