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  #46  
Old 12-01-2010, 10:15 PM
1985 300D Turbo
 
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lOOKS LIKE YOU GOT A GOOD FOLLOWING !!!! EVERY ONE HAS INTEREST IN THIS!!

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  #47  
Old 12-04-2010, 09:36 AM
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Sorry for the late resoponse. I had to go down to Costa Rica for a couple days to repair the engines in one of the boss's little sportfish boats.

I appreciate the positive responses to this thread. I was not sure if it was of any intrest or not, but I guess it is.....

Hopefully I can get my wood finished this week, before I fly back to Costa, I just flew home to wait on parts to arrive from MTU/Detroit.
Will post a pic of the finished product, when its done.
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  #48  
Old 12-04-2010, 05:57 PM
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I got industrious this afternoon, after sleeping off my travel exhaustion, and decided to finish the wood on my TD.

Here is the result.

I did have to take the console piece down to bare wood, as it had been rained on by a sunroof leak, and delaminated badly in places. I was able to hide all of the damage, except the area around the mirror remote control switch, it was too far gone. I built it up with epoxy, sanded it smooth, and painted it black. The varnish does not match, but I have some very dark varnish I am going to apply later on, once I am sure the repairs dont re-crack.

Overall it looks 100% better than the cracked delaminated mess that was there, when I bought it. I am satisfied with the results. The little piece of trim over the radio is to hide some screwdriver damage from some idiot trying to pull the Becker incorrectly. I decided a little piece of mahogany would solve that issue, for now.

So much for buying this car as a beater.........it seems to be turning into more of a restoration each day........
Attached Thumbnails
Repairing Zebrano Wood Cracks-dc-025.jpg  
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  #49  
Old 12-04-2010, 06:07 PM
1985 300D Turbo
 
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Turned out very nice
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  #50  
Old 12-04-2010, 07:21 PM
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Someone needs to donate some carpets for all of your information.
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  #51  
Old 12-04-2010, 08:34 PM
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I am really excited to try this out. Being new to woodworking I have a couple of questions.

1) In the first photos you posted it looks like you sanded the piece before applying the glue. This is a good first step?
2) You mention buffing the piece after the final wet sanding step. What do you buff the finish with? And what grit of sandpaper would be good here? 1500?

I'll be sure to post pictures of my results! The burlwood gearshift in my Jetta has a nasty crack that falls right under your hand, and replacements are nearly impossible to come by. It looks like this repair process would be ideal to fix it.

-J
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  #52  
Old 12-05-2010, 07:51 AM
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Sanding before applying the glue makes it easier to blend the glue in, if you are not going to re-lacquer the entire piece. I only had to re-lacquer my top piece, as it had so many repaired spots, the rest were just superglue blended into the original finish.

For wetsand I was using some 1000 grit, after using a heavier dry sand paper to smooth out the glue lumps.

For buffing I used regular medium car paint buffing compound by 3M. Did almost all the buffing by hand, as it goes pretty quickly. If you use a electric buffer, be careful, as you can damage the piece if the buffer catches the woods edge.

For your gearshift knob, just keep filling the crack up with superglue, till its a little higher than the rest of the finish, sand till flush, then either buff or lacquer, and your done!!

As for the carpets in my wagon, I actually do have a good set, I took them out, to give them a good cleaning with Scrubbing Bubbles, when I was taking these pictures.
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  #53  
Old 12-05-2010, 09:26 PM
1985 300D Turbo
 
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Well I went and got some super glue today. I proceeded to glue my thumb to the tube, I think the tube now has a layer of my thumb attached to it

But the little broken off piece in now where it is supposed to be!
What is your process for warped veneer, do you soften it somehow? W/ maybe heat or something? I pressed down on the warped areas and it cracked the coating
The veneer is lifting from the center piece
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  #54  
Old 12-05-2010, 10:32 PM
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I bought the 20g bottle for 5.00 at Target, I've used about 1/2 a bottle so far, and I've still got more to fill... this is looking fun, thanks!
for bent trim, I'm filling in the cracks, and sanding down the curled edges to flat!
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  #55  
Old 12-05-2010, 11:00 PM
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I just completed the repair. looks good, nice and smooth, Need to laquer it the Crack lines on mine were already dark so there's nothing that can be done about that but it still looks good
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  #56  
Old 12-06-2010, 04:20 PM
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For warped Veneer, you can try using some heat, to soften the finish, so it wont crack. Just be careful, as too much will make it the finish bubble.
Try a hair dryer, then clamp it to a flat surface while it is hot. This will help prevent some of the cracks.

If it does crack, use the superglue to fill it, and sand it flush..........

This wont solve every problem, but it will make shabby old wood look pretty good again.
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  #57  
Old 12-06-2010, 04:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by newtodiesel View Post
Well I went and got some super glue today. I proceeded to glue my thumb to the tube, I think the tube now has a layer of my thumb attached to it
Don't take a piss while using the glue.
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  #58  
Old 01-20-2012, 11:44 AM
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Resurrecting an old thread here...

I experimented with this technique with mixed results. I think it works but I'm a little fuzzy on the sanding technique in case anyone could share some specifics regarding sanding.

In particular I found it difficult to initially sand down the very small ridge of superglue without cutting into the surrounding area too much.

Also, is the goal to sand down the superglue flush with surrounding area, or to leave a slight build-up of glue with the edges feathered into the surrounding area?

Thanks.
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  #59  
Old 03-31-2012, 01:08 PM
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Does anyone else have any before and after pictures for this technique?
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  #60  
Old 03-31-2012, 03:57 PM
1984 300SD
 
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Crazy Glue applied to dash cracks stopped he progression.
I applied a layer at a time to fill the crack.
To keep the glue of the dash material I used a tooth pic to direct the flow into the crack.

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