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#1
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Its the updated 65amp. When I bought the car it had a 55amp ![]() I pulled the brushes on my 55 and my 65 amp and they are both plenty long. So I'm probably just going to delete my amp and box of 8's in the trunk permanently. that was drawing about 1/2 an amp all the time. It was nice having the low end...but I'd rather have a dependable car. Quote:
Connections are nice and clean. I undid and redid the connections to be sure. Took out and inspected the regulator and brushes. They looked great. Quote:
I'll see if I can't find the part numbers on the stock relay and the afterglow relay and confirm my relay. My car should be able to handle an afterglow relay if I'm charging correctly and my battery is fresh....I typically drive about 2 hours a day on the highway. Plenty of charge time for the superdon.
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![]() 77' 300D, "Cartman" SOLD @ 150K (didn't know what I had) ![]() 83' 300SD, "The Superdon" 325k+ @ 28mpg 95 E320 wagon, "Millennium Falcon" 231k+ @ 24 Mpg 95 E300D, "Sherley" 308k @ 33.69 Mpg, currently anticipating a head ![]() 99 Suzuki Intruder "Trudy" @ 45 mpg |
#2
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Is it normal for the glow plugs to be on for 30 sec.? Mine are only on 10-12 sec.
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#3
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your glow plugs are on for either 35 seconds, or as long as you wait before you try to start the car, up to 35 seconds.
the light is meaningless.
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 560SL convertible 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! ![]() 1987 300TD 2005 Dodge Sprinter 2500 158"WB 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! |
#4
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Only if you don't understand what it means. |
#5
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even understanding what the light is for is fairly useless. for the general user, it's just an indicator of glow function and a reminder to wait before hitting the starter. ya gots to wait for the full cycle on cold mornings with older motors, and generally that's 35 seconds.
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 560SL convertible 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! ![]() 1987 300TD 2005 Dodge Sprinter 2500 158"WB 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! |
#6
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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 167,870 July 2025 83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD! 83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked |
#7
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If the battery reads low voltage after a long drive it either doesn't hold a charge or is not getting a charge. The stock alternators do not put out full rated voltage at idle. I don't think the relay is the issue. It sounds like your car starts every morning is this correct? Is the battery soft in the morning or does it start normally. If it starts normally what was concerning you? The voltage? Me thinks you may think there is a problem when one does not exist but I've been called a pessimist more than once. You can just throw an alternator in there for fun and see if anything changes. If it doesn't help at least you can move on to something else.
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'70 F100 shortbed '82 Diesel Westy '83 Euro 300TD Curtlo Viper Yeti ARC Surly long haul trucker |
#8
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It all boils down to the type of pre glo relay you have in your car. The description you mention after starting your car matches mine exactly. I have a 96 E300d, and depending on temperature, the relay will stay engaged anywhere from 30 seconds to two minutes. I have a Scanguage attached at all times, and my voltage figures match yours to a tee. I tried to search the name you provided, but could not get any hits. Hope this helps.
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96 E300d |
#9
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sounds to me like a bad ground somewhere, maybe due to botched wiring from all the add-ons. ground is off then charging voltage will be off, couple that with other/extra loads and you have an issue...
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Current Diesels: 1981 240D (73K) 1982 300CD (169k) 1985 190D (169k) 1991 350SD (116k) 1991 350SD (206k) 1991 300D (228k) 2008 ML320 CDI (199k) 1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k) 1996 Dodge Ram CTD (267k) Past Diesels: 1983 300D (228K), 1985 300D (233K), 1993 300D 2.5T (338k), 1993 300SD (291k) |
#10
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Cold start glow plug light usage.
My light glows different lengths based on engine temp. Stays on almost no time if the engine is warm....stays on a really long time if its below freezing and I didn't plug my block heater in. Is the light tied into the glow plug relay? There would have to be something that tells it to light up for a certain amount of time. It could be as simple as whether the thermostat in the coolant is open or closed...to a complete seperate engine temp sensor. You guys talk about "those who understand it". I would like to join that club. The "TWUTGPR" club Botched is a very good word to describe the wiring of this car when I got it. I have since made it worse...and now...it is only slightly less worse than when I got it. But from even worse to less worse is an improvement. But I think the ground is fine. I get 14 volts at idle after I have been going a while. Fully charged battery + warm engine + low load.
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![]() 77' 300D, "Cartman" SOLD @ 150K (didn't know what I had) ![]() 83' 300SD, "The Superdon" 325k+ @ 28mpg 95 E320 wagon, "Millennium Falcon" 231k+ @ 24 Mpg 95 E300D, "Sherley" 308k @ 33.69 Mpg, currently anticipating a head ![]() 99 Suzuki Intruder "Trudy" @ 45 mpg |
#11
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On your model, the duration of the glow light (and the glow cycle on some timer versions) is a function of ambient air temperature at the timer. There is no engine temp input to the timer.
No. The light is controlled by a solid-state device that is part of the timer assembly. The relay itself powers only the glow plugs, when energized by the solid-state device. The light does not provide a direct indication of relay operation. |
#12
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12 V on a battery after 2 days is not good. A 0.13 amp draw should not bring it down that low in 2 days! Alternator not charging properly? Belts loose? Bad battery? Get a cig.. lighter voltmeter from Radio Shack and watch it while you drive and report the results. You should see 13 to 14 v depending on the electrical loads.
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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 167,870 July 2025 83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD! 83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked |
#13
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I'm pretty sure you have an alternator that uses an "exciter" circuit to make the alternator charge at lower RPMs when you first start up. If that circuit isn't intact, the engine will have to be revved-up to RPMs one would normally see while driving to initiate charging. This might explain why you see normal charging voltage only after driving for a time. I also think you have a weak battery.
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-Louis '87 300D Anthracite ![]() |
#14
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You don't agree with the "afterglow" theory? |
#15
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OK...glad we cleared that up
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If this is the case with his car, the OP can go out and rev it up right now and find out if this is the case with his without any effort. Easy check. If it doesn't work, oh well. I didn't say I didn't agree. I just offered an alternative that would take all of about two minutes to try.
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-Louis '87 300D Anthracite ![]() |
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