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  #16  
Old 12-03-2010, 07:23 PM
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Army,
Your motor after the rebuild will be that tight & good on compression that it wont need a block heater in your life time. If on the one very cold morning when the car has been not used for a week, has been out in the weather & is long over due for the valves being adjusted. Do as I have done, borrow the Mrs's hair dryer, pop the air cleaner lid & have hot air going down the throat while you crank it. It worked every time for me with my old worn out 300D.

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1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket.
1980 300D now parts car 800k miles
1984 300D 500k miles
1987 250td 160k miles English import
2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles
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1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion.
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  #17  
Old 12-04-2010, 08:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by funola View Post
How do you know it's a 220V heater? Do the person you're selling it to a favor by measuring the resistance first so you don't waste their time and money. It should be around 120 ohms for a 400 watt 220 V heater. If it measures 30 ohms, it's a 110 V heater.
Great bit of information funola - if you don't mind me asking do you know that from experience, or is that in the FSM, or is that posted somewhere on this forum or the web? I ask as it may lead to a part number or more information... cheers!
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #18  
Old 12-04-2010, 08:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by layback40 View Post
Army,
Your motor after the rebuild will be that tight & good on compression that it wont need a block heater in your life time. If on the one very cold morning when the car has been not used for a week, has been out in the weather & is long over due for the valves being adjusted. Do as I have done, borrow the Mrs's hair dryer, pop the air cleaner lid & have hot air going down the throat while you crank it. It worked every time for me with my old worn out 300D.
I completely agree layback40 - but you've forced my hand - now I have to admit that I'm a sick man:- I think I'm turning into Mercedes gadget man...

If another Mercedes arrives on my driveway it could be D I V O R C E - but if the existing one just gets leather W126 steering wheels and block heaters it puts a smile on my face and her indoors doesn't appreciate or even notice such things!
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #19  
Old 12-04-2010, 09:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Army View Post
Great bit of information funola - if you don't mind me asking do you know that from experience, or is that in the FSM, or is that posted somewhere on this forum or the web? I ask as it may lead to a part number or more information... cheers!
All you need to know is ohms law.
If you know 2 parameters, power and voltage, you can calculate the 3rd parameter, resistance.

Here's a convenient ohms law calculator.

http://www.the12volt.com/ohm/page2.asp
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  #20  
Old 12-04-2010, 01:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by funola View Post
All you need to know is ohms law.
If you know 2 parameters, power and voltage, you can calculate the 3rd parameter, resistance.

Here's a convenient ohms law calculator.

http://www.the12volt.com/ohm/page2.asp
Ah ha so that's how you got it - I see now - I didn't know the power. I'm assuming that 400W is standard for both sides of the water?
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #21  
Old 12-15-2010, 08:00 AM
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Update - just to let you all know. A block heater is still available from the dealer that runs on 220V. But it costs in excess of 500 euros including Dutch purchase taxes... oh well...
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #22  
Old 12-15-2010, 09:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Army View Post
Update - just to let you all know. A block heater is still available from the dealer that runs on 220V. But it costs in excess of 500 euros including Dutch purchase taxes... oh well...
...
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  #23  
Old 12-15-2010, 11:35 AM
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Geeze. I could ship you mine for less than that. PM if you're interested.

-Tad
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  #24  
Old 12-15-2010, 01:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nazrat View Post
Geeze. I could ship you mine for less than that. PM if you're interested.

-Tad
Sorry I forgot about your offer - PM sent.
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #25  
Old 12-27-2010, 11:21 AM
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Army,
if you are still looking for a proper 230V block heater for way less than 500 contact me. They sell 'em at the stores here for way cheaper than that and we can probably work out a simple payment and shipping deal (and I am talking Calix or Defa brand). Best regards, Vic from Finland.
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  #26  
Old 12-27-2010, 12:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johtotahti View Post
Army,
if you are still looking for a proper 230V block heater for way less than 500 contact me. They sell 'em at the stores here for way cheaper than that and we can probably work out a simple payment and shipping deal (and I am talking Calix or Defa brand). Best regards, Vic from Finland.
Thanks - PM sent!
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #27  
Old 12-27-2010, 08:54 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 79
My 1982 123 300d has a block heater, but today it started well without the block heater plugged in at about 20 degrees after I shoveled it out from the blizzard that we just endured, in New Hampshire.
I agree that it's nicer to start out in the car after it has been plugged in, but not necessary in this climate or anything milder.
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  #28  
Old 01-09-2011, 02:14 PM
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Update

For those (few) of you who are looking for a 220V block heater for an OM617 - here is some information courtesy of the information provided by Johtotahti:-

DEFA

411214 cable
411265 heater

CALIX

1777302 heater 550W
1762461 cable set
1760015 Branch cable set

Alternative:-

1788701 heater 550W

I can get good prices for the DEFA model in Germany - and a silly price for Calix in Holland...

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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