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#1
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Coolant is slightly reddish and grainy
This is for the new-to-me 190d. I noticed the coolant in the reservoir is slightly oily (slimy), is rust colored and has a grainy (almost sandlike) stuff in it.
I can only guess that this is rust but from where? Isn't the block and head aluminum on these motors? Perhaps the radiator is rusted inside? The car came with no maintenance records so I have no idea how old the coolant is. What do you gurus suggest on how to fix this?
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Ben 1987 190d 2.5Turbo |
#2
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head is aluminum. the water pump, and block are iron.
rust could also come from the water pipes that were used to fill the car. time for a good read on citric acid flush. have fun!
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 560SL convertible 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! ![]() 1987 300TD 2005 Dodge Sprinter 2500 158"WB 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! |
#3
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it is NOT Dexcool orange, is it?
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"I have no convictions ... I blow with the wind, and the prevailing wind happens to be from Vichy" Current Monika '74 450 SL BrownHilda '79 280SL FoxyCleopatra '99 Chevy Suburban Scarlett 2014 Jeep Cherokee Krystal 2004 Volvo S60 Gone '74 Jeep CJ5 '97 Jeep ZJ Laredo Rudolf ‘86 300SDL Bruno '81 300SD Fritzi '84 BMW '92 Subaru '96 Impala SS '71 Buick GS conv '67 GTO conv '63 Corvair conv '57 Nomad ![]() |
#4
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am I SOL if that is the case? would the citric flush fix it.
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Ben 1987 190d 2.5Turbo |
#5
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No, but I'd do a complete overhaul of the cooling system starting with a flush and new thermostat.
Neighbor lost a Jimmy to Deathcool ![]()
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-Typos courtesy of my mobile phone. |
#6
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Quote:
Get the death-cool out ASAP.
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1987 300D (230,000 mi on a #14 head-watching the temp gauge and keeping the ghost in the machine) Raleigh NC - Home of deep fried sushi! |
#7
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Ha! That was my initial reaction too.
Here's another option, it's possible that someone dumped a bottle stop-leak in there. Sometimes that accounts for odd colors and strange things in the coolant.
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'95 E300D ("Tank") - 231,000 miles '79 240D ("Biscuit") - 197,250 miles (Sold) '83 240D ("Ding-Ding") - 217,000 miles (Death by deer) ______________________________________ "Back off, man. I’m a scientist” ~ Peter Venkman |
#8
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I had to replace the radiator on the Suburban last summer. After running DEATHCOOL since 1999 the radiator tanks were 1/3 full of orange greasy crap! I was seriously thinking of putting G-05 in the truck, but I did not want to have issues with mixing it with the remains of the Dex...
FWIW, I did a citric acid flush on the truck a couple years ago and it still was full of gunk!
__________________
"I have no convictions ... I blow with the wind, and the prevailing wind happens to be from Vichy" Current Monika '74 450 SL BrownHilda '79 280SL FoxyCleopatra '99 Chevy Suburban Scarlett 2014 Jeep Cherokee Krystal 2004 Volvo S60 Gone '74 Jeep CJ5 '97 Jeep ZJ Laredo Rudolf ‘86 300SDL Bruno '81 300SD Fritzi '84 BMW '92 Subaru '96 Impala SS '71 Buick GS conv '67 GTO conv '63 Corvair conv '57 Nomad ![]() |
#9
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I agree with the stop leak theory. There is one brand that has pellets in an oil base. When the pellets break up they are small fibrous lumps that are supposed to jam up in a leak and plug it. I would just drain and refill the coolant. The more vigorous treatments could open up the sealed leak.
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#10
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I have a 3.1 buick century waiting for treatment of a simular sort. I imagine either the head gasket was changed out or it was not. Someone may have sometime without cleaning the coolant system out as well. The car runs very well with no indications otherwise of a current possible head gasket problem.
Citric flushes might be too agressive. First I want to find out if it is a head gasket or not anyways. So I will drain the current junk out and put water and liquid detergent soap in. Run for awhile and flush and repeat until it is nice and clean. Perhaps then run a low percentage of water and anti freeze mix and keep an eye on it for a week or two. If it stays clean then put a normal mix of coolant in. If not try to find out the head gasket that may have failed and change it out. At least on the 190 you only have one head. On the 301 it might be better for me to change the two out as preventative maintenance rather than just one anyways if it comes to it. I do not unfortunatly know the past owner or have anyway of contacting him. |
#11
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I thought it might be the head gasket but wouldn't the coolant be black as opposed to reddish though?
It might very well be the Bar's Stop Leak gunk. I think the idea is, as the gritty particles get exposed to air via the leak, they solidify and stop the leak. I am gonna drain the coolant a few times and see what happens. I'm waiting for a warm day!
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Ben 1987 190d 2.5Turbo |
#12
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I would replace the radiator cap as a precaution. It may be leaking air and allowing O2 into the coolant contributing to rust
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green 85 300SD 200K miles "Das Schlepper Frog" With a OM603 TBO360 turbo ( To be intercooled someday ![]() ![]() ![]() white 79 300SD 200K'ish miles "Farfegnugen" (RIP - cracked crank) desert storm primer 63 T-bird "The Undead" (long term hibernation) http://ecomodder.com/forum/fe-graphs/sig692a.png |
#13
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Quote:
Anyway, the POs reported no problem with coolant loss or overheating - and I haven't noticed any problem after these first few months. I did drain the coolant to attempt to get rid of the Dex-Crap. The resevoir did have some of the greasy gunk and there was some on the interior of the radiator cap as well. I cleaned up as best as I could - flushed, and refilled with G-05. Even after a flush, the G-05 is tinged the dreaded orange again, so I will hit it again next year to try and get as much of that stuff out as possible. It is also advised, although I still need to do it - to replace the radiator caps, in some models they were updated. Is there some known issue with mixing G-05 with Dex, I assumed anything was better than Dex and the G-05 would offer the same protection. Actually, some attribute the failed IM gaskets to the Dex and suggest that G-05 is better in that respect. Oh, and regarding the Stop-leak theory. recently my father-in-law and I did some work on his van - it had a corroded coolant pipe that needed replaced. He realized it on a long trip and so added a bottle of the stop-leak. After purchasing a new pipe, we drained the old coolant which was dark in color and had little bits of junk from the stop-leak. So, it's possible that this is your issue, but I would also check out the other ideas here too.
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'95 E300D ("Tank") - 231,000 miles '79 240D ("Biscuit") - 197,250 miles (Sold) '83 240D ("Ding-Ding") - 217,000 miles (Death by deer) ______________________________________ "Back off, man. I’m a scientist” ~ Peter Venkman |
#14
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That Dex-cool is some nasty stuff. It pretty much writes off any GM product for me at a dealer auction over 15 years old. All I look for is the 3.8, 4.3, and 5.7s out there.
The coolant is not pressurized in the expansion tank reservoir, as the cap can make it easily confused with windshield washer fluid. The ones with old Dex cool in there build up a really nasty gooey coating on all the surfaces. It really is a shame. My '94 Buick had a nasty looking heater core because of it. I made specific instructions NOT to refill the system with dexcool.
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1985 500SL Euro w/ AMG bits 130k ![]() 1984 300SD Turbodiesel 192k ![]() 1980 240D Stick China 188k ![]() 2001 CLK55 AMG 101k ![]() 2007 S600 Biturbo 149k Overheated Project, IT'S ALIVE!!! ![]() |
#15
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If it is reddish/pink there is a chance that ATF got into the coolant as well, but the oil will separate. If there was a leaky radiator and stop leak was used, there is a chance ATF got in there as well since (at least on the w126? correct me if wrong please) the radiator doubles as teh trans cooler.
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TC Current stable: - 2004 Mazda RALLYWANKEL - 2007 Saturn sky redline - 2004 Explorer...under surgery. Past: 135i, GTI, 300E, 300SD, 300SD, Stealth |
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