It's the axel. I took it over to the shop I use this morning and we put it back up on the lift and gave it a good looking at. The axels banging right where it meets the pumpkin. there was a dime size hole in the boot protecting it.

We took a grease gun and filled it up with grease. Cost... free.

Drove it about 100 miles today with no further problems. Plan on getting a new axel for it in a week or so.

You will have to eventually replace the entire axle.

It isn't hard, just time consuming if it is your first DIY. The show can do it easily as well.

CVJ axle's mailed me rebuilt axles that I have on right now. They're doing very well.

The oil however will spill out quickly, wrap the entire joint in duct tape and you can drive for a few thousand miles before replacing them

__________________
-Typos courtesy of my mobile phone.

Thank You.
I love it when everyone else lines up on the other side of my advice... ( Sway bar Links --HA !!! ) LOL

However, you likely have not fixed your problem...
First , as I mentioned.. mine would quit the noise for hundreds of miles at a time for little or no reason.. but almost always if I stopped and backup up...

Second, The Factory Installs Heavy OIL... not grease... as you can imagine if you think of the physics.. as soon as you get that thing turning fast centrifugal force will throw that grease to the boots...and since it is grease INSTEAD of OIL.. it will stay there...
so , you need to fix your boots so you can install OIL.. which will be able to splash on the parts needing lubrication.

__________________
1980 240d ,

chain elongation, cam marks reference:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/10414-help-i-need-check-stretch.html

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html

evap fin cleaning:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator

A/C thread

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html

Cool. I put in 2 entire grease guns full of grease.... so far so good,

I really wasn't convinced it was sway bar links, usually sway bar link make rattling noises. But they are easy to check, and cheap to replace. So it's a good place to start. You'd mentioned the axles, so we were mentioning something else. Thats the beauty of the forum, is you can get lots of options to check, which I guess can be a bad thing too, but I always figure more info is good.

__________________

Barry, I was not being as serious as it looks like you took my kidding...this is not a competition.. the purpose is just as you described.. .to be helpful..... I did not even know the sway bar links could cause a sound like was described.. so it was good that that was mentioned so if it was not the half shafts he would immediately know another logical place to check...That IS the beauty of the forum structure...

__________________
1980 240d ,

chain elongation, cam marks reference:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html

evap fin cleaning:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator

A/C thread

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html

There was no intent to contradict from me as well. It could have been sway bar links or stabilzer bar links depending on ones terminoligy.

I never feel that I have any bettter suggesions than anyone else. Personaly I expect his cv joint is still good. All he needs really is the boot changed and some heavy oil injected and he will probably never hear from that cv joint again.

The local parts suppliers like napa all over the continent supply new chinese replacement axles. The Chinese never got their quality control right up to the present time so it is a hit and miss thing. A better choice in my opinion is a used axle from a salvage yard if the boots are intact. Just add a little oil inside the boots and drive on. Or remove both boot clamps and slide back the boot. Clean the joint properly and add the new oil.

New chinese axles are about 100.00 and a used one with good boots about half that usually. Mercedes new originals probably between 4-500 new although I might be slightly high on price.

I really think an individual is better off in cases like his just rebooting and putting that axle back into service. Unless dirt has worked it's way in.

Anyways I never felt any slight or whatever and hope I did not imply one myself. I would never mean to but might unintentionally by some ommision or projection. I also never feel that I am in competition. This site is a form of relaxation therapy for me at least and many others I hope. The last time I really felt I was truly correct about something the wife wasted no time in correcting me.

Many on site members also have more knowledge and experience than myself. As you state the site is all about making suggestions. We do not even get to experience the individuals fault or hear the noise on his car personally.

At this point it does sound like he has found a garage with a reasonable attitude so far at least. This in itself is far from common today.