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  #1  
Old 02-13-2011, 02:55 AM
300CD bot with 14K miles
 
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Cutting springs soon new donuts

Cutting Springs Soon
I have to drive up to Los Angeles to see my wheel guy. He will cut my springs and install the KMAC rear camber adjuster.

I am thinking that I should go with the 1 nub spring donuts on the springs because this is the thinnest and will get me down the farthest while conserving the most spring.

My question is does this make sense and where to buy the donuts?

Also, when he puts in the rear KMAC unit, are there some bushings that I should put in and which bushings since maybe he has to pull it apart anyway. (and I might as well put in some new parts while doing this.)

Which bushings are these and where to buy these?

1981 300CD
Thank you very much.

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  #2  
Old 02-13-2011, 10:10 AM
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I've read some here have installed vogtland (sp?) springs. I've heard that cutting is a bad thing to do... I have no experience with either.
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  #3  
Old 02-13-2011, 12:56 PM
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I have cut and i have used aftermarket.. cutting is kinda redneck but it works, i would not cut on something i cared about.
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  #4  
Old 02-13-2011, 01:44 PM
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Interested to learn more as I would like to lower one of my Mbs.

Nothing 'red neck' about cutting springs. The method used to lower a vehicle depends upon the objective. There are advantages and disadvantages of each approach.

Buying a set of lowering springs is the 'turn key' package that best suites the widest range of users. Many of us have gone so far as to even cut aftermarket springs to 'fine tune' the project.

nothing wrong with cutting springs.
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  #5  
Old 02-13-2011, 03:26 PM
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Im not saying its dangerous and im not saying it doesnt work, it's just not the "right" way to do it. If your lowering your car your probably looking for increased cornering ability but without a stiffer spring your not going to get that.
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  #6  
Old 02-13-2011, 08:51 PM
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Actually cutting the spring increases its spring rate. But removing an entire coil can increase the rate to a point where it is very stiff and uncomfortable. If the springs are 'notch' positioned (I am not familiar with MB's perches) you need to remove an entire coil so that they seat correctly. If the perches do not have positioning notches you can cut as much as you like.
Key to cutting is use a cold saw or, if you must use an abrasive cutting wheel/disc go quick and keep the temperature down.

Aftermarket drop springs are typically progressive in that the first amount of compression is 'soft' and as it compresses it gets stiffer. This allows for a good ride but good handling as well. A cut spring will simply be stiffer.

With 'classic' MB there is not a lot of aftermarket support for drop springs available, indeed if any, so cutting is pretty much the only option if you are looking for improved stance, ride, and handling.

Even if you find some many drop springs available are not that good so the old adage you get what you pay for applies.

Once springs are cut, or you go to a different spring with a stiffer rate (Eibach, H&R) you must realise the stock shocks will not be up to the task. The stiffer spring will simply overcome it. So any time you go to a different spring it is important that you match it to a stronger damper. Koni or Bilstein HD's for instance... for a cut spring perhaps the very stiff KYB's would be a good match.
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  #7  
Old 02-13-2011, 09:35 PM
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cutting springs isnt that bad. ive never done it on a mb but have on other cars..just dont over do it. cutting a coil off isnt a big deal..and the car still should ride somewhat between stockish and with loweing springs. dont cut off like 3 coils which will basically ruin your ride quality.
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Old 02-13-2011, 10:57 PM
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My question is does this make sense and where to buy the donuts?

Which bushings are these and where to buy these?



Well, there is a Buy Parts Tab at the top of the page. click on it and pruchase what ever you need. Call Phill if something is not listed.

Might as well help soupport the Forum.

Charlie
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  #9  
Old 02-13-2011, 11:08 PM
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3 coils in the front 2 in the rear I believe is the best approach. I would get new shims and stay with the current nub size.
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  #10  
Old 02-14-2011, 12:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vstech View Post
I've read some here have installed vogtland (sp?) springs. I've heard that cutting is a bad thing to do... I have no experience with either.
cutting with a torch is a bad idea, but cutting with a cutoff wheel is ok. I'd put a bag of ice on the spring while cutting with a wheel to keep the heat down just to be safe. The torch messes with the tempering of the spring steel .

cutting mercedes springs is also easy because for the most part they are a progressive rate. I'm planning on chopping 1/2-1 coil off my springs on the cabrio to lower it a bit
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  #11  
Old 02-14-2011, 12:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vstech View Post
I've read some here have installed vogtland (sp?) springs. I've heard that cutting is a bad thing to do... I have no experience with either.
Yes the was a Vogtland group buy in about 2008 that i have read about. vogtland made a special run for the group.

It seems at least some were not happy about the rear springs.

And some cut the Vogtland lowering springs.
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  #12  
Old 02-14-2011, 12:51 AM
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So I have always wondered... cut off the top or bottom?
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  #13  
Old 02-14-2011, 12:56 AM
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I always cut the bottom.
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  #14  
Old 02-14-2011, 01:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BimmerBenz View Post
But removing an entire coil can increase the rate to a point where it is very stiff and uncomfortable.

Koni or Bilstein HD's for instance... for a cut spring perhaps the very stiff KYB's would be a good match.
Yes, that is the question, how will the ride be afterwards. w123 springs have a very high number of coils compared to other cars and the coils are a high quality so hopefully it will work out.

I put on Bilstein HDs 1 week ago, and the car does not wallow anymore when it is going in a straight line as a negative, but it does not roll as much going around the corners as a positive.

Now from driving it, i understand the posts about putting HDs on the front and comforts on the rears. the front hds tighten up and quicken the steering response and decrease the roll. Makes the car react more like a more newer technology.

HD on front and comforts on the back with double roll bars on the back might be optimum.

in this case, when lowering the car you have to worry about compressing the spring to its maximum compression and so i have to keep the hds in the back.

Anyway we shall see after the cuts.

if it doesnt work then can buy oem springs and go back to how it was.
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  #15  
Old 02-14-2011, 02:00 AM
300CD bot with 14K miles
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by winmutt View Post
3 coils in the front 2 in the rear I believe is the best approach. I would get new shims and stay with the current nub size.
on mb w123, must cut the bottom.

winmutt, there was a guy who cut too much and was quite humble about posting pictures of his screw up. forgot if he cut 3 or 4 coils. then he fixed it and was happy. Have to look at my notes.

if cut 3 in front and 2 in rear, then the rake will increase from 1/2 inch to maybe 1 1/4 inch. car might look like an anteater.

to keep the same rake, then have to cut front and rear equally.

If you look at the German mobsters look after WWI, they had zero rake.

To get that look, would have to eliminate 1/2 inch by diff donuts front to rear or mess with the shims which i will become an expert in after doing this.

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