turbo drain tube install 2 minutes, no tools - Page 3 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

JHZR2 · #31 02-21-2012, 03:02 PM

The biggest issue with this job I found was not getting the tubes aligned correctly or whatnot, it was getting an absolutely clean, gouge free flange surface on the turbo body itself.

I pulled the drain due to the o ring, but could never stop the leak on the turbo drain flange itself after that.

It is a paper gasket, should one use indian head shellac or something like that to ensure a good seal?

My 83 leaked only from that spot forever after I did this job. Redid it twice and it still always leaked.

JHZR2 · #32 02-21-2012, 03:06 PM

Also, is a turbo R&R on a 617 really 12 hours?

Given that >150k is the norm, would removing it, rebuilding the turbo (even if it puts out full pressure), replacing the gaskets, cleaning the EGR gunk, etc. really the most prudent way? Plus you can be sure to have a good seal at the turbo drain and ease of re-install.

The Gears · #33 02-22-2012, 02:20 PM

The reason for leaks after the repair is the lower tube is not forced all the way up into the upper tube, locking the lower seal in place to fully expand the rubber fitting in the pan.
This job can be done without removing the upper tube, at least on a SD.
The lower tube must be forced down into the pan removing the "O" ring from its seat in the rubber fitting. Now pry the rubber fitting up the tube and out of the pan.
The top of the lower tube will be below the cup end on the
upper tube.(still in place)
With the rubber fitting out of the pan there is just enough wiggle room to pull the lower tube up and out past the end of the upper tube.
Now clean the tube, apply some grease slide on the new rubber fitting and a new "O" ring in the bottom grove. Keep the "O" ring and grove dry, no grease. This helps to keep the "O" ring in place. Grease the "O" ring seat in the rubber fitting.
Sneak the tube back down the pan hole. Seat the new fitting all the way down into the pan. I use a crows foot for this from the top with a long extension.
Now the tube must be forced up into the upper tube ALL THE WAY.
Same crows foot under two gear clamps on the tube. Tap up with a small weighted hammer. You can see up into the upper tube with a flash light to see if the tube is all the way up.

JHZR2 · #34 02-22-2012, 03:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by The Gears

The reason for leaks after the repair is the lower tube is not forced all the way up into the upper tube, locking the lower seal in place to fully expand the rubber fitting in the pan.

IME, the reason for leaks is that the flange that the turbo drain tube has that mounts to the turbo body itself cannot get perfectly clean and gouge free when the turbo is mounted. You cannot see it or reach it in a practical way.

Thus the sealing job is never right.

Never had a leak on a turbo drain tube assembly except at the turbo body flange.

rjz5400 · #35 12-16-2012, 02:10 PM

To the OP THANK YOU

just got it in there, hopefully everything is fully seated fingers crossed for no leaks!

Much easier than the alternative method

Doktor Bert · #36 12-16-2012, 02:56 PM

Are you dropping the sump to do this????

Doktor Bert · #37 12-16-2012, 03:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by zeke

that's excellent!...you don't happen to know the sizes for those o-rings do you? For a more complete quick reference.

I buy the O-rings and seals ONLY from MBZ. I can post the part numbers later if you like...

Doktor Bert · #38 02-12-2013, 03:11 PM

Nice...

vstech · #39 02-12-2013, 09:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Doktor Bert

I buy the O-rings and seals ONLY from MBZ. I can post the part numbers later if you like...

please

cho · #40 02-13-2013, 03:37 AM

.

617 187 01 85 Turbo Drain Grommet
004 997 53 48, Turbo Drain O-Ring
+
6031870380 6031870480 6171870180 gasket
.

eatont9999 · #41 02-20-2013, 06:06 PM

I did the turbo drain job last summer. It took the better part of a day. I learned a lot, though. I ended up using the same method as shown in the video but it is much more difficult with the engine in the car. I didn't jack it up or anything, either.

One good hint for removing the lower tube is to drop the oil pan and use a deep well socket to tap the tube out from the bottom. The old grommets can get very stiff and seem to lock the tube into the drain hole. Not a bad idea to replace the oil pan gasket, inspect the underside of the engine and replace the O-rings for the CDR drain, too.

As soon as I got all the engine oil leaks fixed, the PS gear box decided to start pizzing everywhere. Still need to deal with that. Not going to be fun...

jimmypete · #42 06-17-2014, 05:30 PM

The two most important parts of this are:

1. Do not try to put everything together with the large rubber seal in the oil pan hole, it will not work

2. The lower tube will snap into place in the oil pan only if the large rubber seal is not in the oil pan hole

Slide the large rubber seal completely onto the lower tube and then an inch above the o-ring. After you have the rest of the assembly put together and the bolts in the turbo and everything in place, THEN push the large rubber seal down the tube and into the hole.

Anyone has any great ideas on how to get that seal in the hole all the way around, please post. I used a screwdriver and did a mediocre job of it. It's impossible to get to to the back side of that seal to push it into the oil pan hole.

SD Blue · #43 06-17-2014, 05:53 PM

It has been a while but IIRC, a pair of bent nose needlenose pliers worked for pressing the grommet down to seal. Also, using silicone grease (or even KY) makes it easier to install.

The Gears · #44 06-18-2014, 12:59 PM

Don't fight the rubber seal.
Slide it up the lower pipe. Lube the inside of the seal.
Fit the "O' ring on the lower tube. (dry in the grove, lube on the outside)
Push the the tube well into the pan. (Rubber up high on the tube).
Fit the lower tube with new "O" ring on top up into the recess in the upper tube.
Push the lubed rubber down the tube and into the pan.
Now. Pull the tube up so the "O" ring snaps into place in the rubber. The rubber is expanded in the pan, the seal is made. (this the reason for the long recess in the upper tube)
A couple of gear clamps on the lower tube helps to push it up into the upper tube. Use a crows foot and a couple of extensions to help raise the lower tube. This job can be done without removing the upper tube.