84 190D break in oil? - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

04 Diesel · #1 04-16-2011, 12:08 AM

Getting close to having the motor back in the car, just a few things to hook back up. I am going to use Rotolla 15-40, any thoughts on that? Having trouble with some of the vacuum lines, dont remember where they go. Is there anything I should do before I fire her up for the first time? Any tips would be great.

leathermang · #2 04-16-2011, 12:19 AM

So I assume that whoever put it back together used the right lube ? Moly---sulfide
There are specific ' engine build ' lubes which will stay on the bearings long enough for the oil to get to that bearing... some instruction say to put the engine together with oil...but by the time you put it in and start it up OIL will have run off... you will pretty much be starting it DRY...
I would use some method to turn it over long enough to get the oil pressure up before allowing it to start ... in the old days some engines could have the distributor pulled...and a shaft was inserted run by a drill... because this would turn the oil pump...and see that pressure was at all the bearings... but I do not know how your car is made... so I would pull the glow plugs and use the starter to turn the engine over fast enough and long enough to get the pressure up.... install the gplugs ans start it as soon as possible... given that you have now washed that ' build lube' off the bearings...
Now that digital cameras exist... not really much excuse for ' not remembering ' where the vacuum lines go.. but be sure they are correct FIRST...
And on a newly rebuilt engine... I think oil is cheap insurance... so I have changed the oil and filter out at 20 miles, 100 miles and 1000 miles...

vstech · #3 04-16-2011, 12:41 AM

Whoof. I've never rebuilt a diesel motor before. but all the SBC and BBC stuff always gets built with assembly lube, and cam lube and other gook that's not good for an oil pump.
on those cars, I run the oil pump up to pressrue for 20 minutes, then dump the motor oil, and filter and refill, then run another 10 minutes, and check the oil. if it's got assembly residue in it, I run another 10 minutes, and dump THAT oil, and filter, then run the starter while I'm running the pressure up. this clears out the lifters etc. then I dump that oil, and filter and fill with a good break in oil in the summer I use 30 weight for 50 miles, then dump that oil and filter and put in a decent midgrade oil and run it for the break in period of 500 miles and dump THAT oil and filter then use same midgrade oil, and tell customer to run for 1500 miles with the limit on strong pulls, and long grades lots of varying speeds and loads.
then and only then can they use synthetics and such.

but that's nearly impossible with the mB motors... so no glow plugs or no injectors actually would be better, keeps the fuel out of the equation.
wire the stop lever in the stop position, and crank for several 90 second attempts stopping for 1 minute to cool the starter a bit, then repeat. get all the lube out of the crannies, then flush the oil and filter with the 15w40 DINO oil, and reassemble drive, 10 miles and change it again, then fill with your favorite oil, and follow MB guidelines for break in period.

leathermang · #4 04-16-2011, 12:53 AM

I love that you are that compulsive about the oil changes... although if the filter is working that might not be that necessary... now on a VW or small engine with no filter ( the VW air cooled only had a screen at the bottom of the pan ) then changing was really needed...

So you dispute my theory on ' Assembly Lube " being for assembling the engine ?
LOL

vstech · #5 04-16-2011, 12:59 AM

dispute? never, I totally 100% agree! I use the pink stuff from that bolt company... too tired to think of the name... anyway, totally lube EVERY bearing surface, and use cam break in lube on the cams. I liberally goop the timing chain assembly, and follow the lube specs for torque of the assembly goodies. I usually use studs on the chevy stuff. often I'm working on a race mill, so the "miles" goes out the window, and I gotta get the engine ready for Drag pulls or circle track stuff.
that lube will wreak havok on the cylinder sealing and plug up a filter in no time.
I always flush and change, flush and change until clean clear oil is all I see.
and there's ALWAYS some left! that cam lube is STICKY stuff!

leathermang · #6 04-16-2011, 01:03 AM

"Whoof. I've never rebuilt a diesel motor before. but all the SBC and BBC stuff always gets built with assembly lube, and cam lube and other gook that's not good for an oil pump."--vstech

I was going by the ' not good for an oil pump " part of this sentence...
It is STICKY so it will stay there until the oil gets there.... but how is it bad for the oil pump ?

compress ignite · #7 04-16-2011, 05:54 AM

Kestas ? (Assembly Lube BAD for Oil Pump/Engine components???)

04,

If that OM601 has the 80 amp Pre-Glow Relay fuse, you could remove it to
disable the Glow Plugs.
(ALONG with Tying/Wiring Down the I.P. "STOP" lever to disable Injection.)
While you spin the motor with the Starter to get the Original Oil Pressure up.

04 Diesel · #8 04-16-2011, 09:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by compress ignite

Kestas ? (Assembly Lube BAD for Oil Pump/Engine components???)

04,

If that OM601 has the 80 amp Pre-Glow Relay fuse, you could remove it to
disable the Glow Plugs.
(ALONG with Tying/Wiring Down the I.P. "STOP" lever to disable Injection.)
While you spin the motor with the Starter to get the Original Oil Pressure up.

That is what I am going to do, I am nervous about starting her for the first time. I hope I did everything right.

vstech · #9 04-16-2011, 09:29 AM

the lube is very very thick. and it's like pumping rocks to an oil pump. the stuff will not make it to the oil pump during flush procedures, but driving with it in the system will liquefy it and allow it to get mixed into the oil.

leathermang · #10 04-16-2011, 10:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

the lube is very very thick. and it's like pumping rocks to an oil pump. the stuff will not make it to the oil pump during flush procedures, but driving with it in the system will liquefy it and allow it to get mixed into the oil.

LOL,
yes, it will mix with the oil ... and those tiny moly beads will fill in small holes in the bearings and on other surfaces and provide slick lubrication to them...
I do not disagree with changing oil often... but this is not the reason to do so.
It is not thick as soon as it is washed off those up till then protected parts.. it is dissolved in the oil ...and the volume of that assembly lube compared to 6-8 quarts of oil in a system... tiny...

04 Diesel · #11 04-16-2011, 10:19 PM

I am so close I can taste it, battery is dead. It did some coughing and battery died. Battery is charging now.

charmalu · #12 04-16-2011, 11:05 PM

..................................................................................

Charlie

vstech · #13 04-16-2011, 11:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by leathermang

LOL,
yes, it will mix with the oil ... and those tiny moly beads will fill in small holes in the bearings and on other surfaces and provide slick lubrication to them...
I do not disagree with changing oil often... but this is not the reason to do so.
It is not thick as soon as it is washed off those up till then protected parts.. it is dissolved in the oil ...and the volume of that assembly lube compared to 6-8 quarts of oil in a system... tiny...

heh, it's not just the lube that you are flushing out.
cleanliness in next to godliness in my dad's teachings...
still dirt from fingers, tools, metal shavings etc get into a system during rebuild, and it's a good idea to limit that stuff!
I'm probably overkill, but all my motors last!

gastropodus · #14 04-17-2011, 12:27 AM

When we put the new engine in my 240D we, of course, had to purge the diesel lines of air by doing cranking with the hard lines loose at the injectors. This takes a while, and I was worried about just wearing the assembly lube off the bearings. Brian at Bearing Service had told me to be prepared for it to take up to 30 seconds to see full pressure on the oil gauge, but after all that purging it went right up and pegged at 3 bar within seconds.

Kurt

compress ignite · #15 04-17-2011, 03:28 AM

RPMs or Not?

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