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  #31  
Old 04-23-2011, 04:54 PM
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I am not sure with the 602. Your symptoms seemed so similar. like the turbo is bleeding energy below 3500RPM. so I guess I don't know. If you had any exhaust leak before the turbo it will cause this symptom but again 602 nevermind

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  #32  
Old 04-23-2011, 10:38 PM
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Alda alda alda.

I also don't know why this hasn't been done, unless people would rather type than try a free and simple known maintenance item.

I believe it is in the Combustion portion of the FSM under Programmed Repairs, look for complaint of low power under 2500RPM.

1-1/2 turns CCW has always worked for me, if it's too aggressive (slight smoke on takeoff or too much pep) then back it off some. It's so common and fits your symptom perfectly, ... just do it.

You can check first to see if the ALDA will hold pressure, that the line from the intake plenum is clear (blow through it to be sure), that the line from the intake plenum goes to the BOTTOM of the switchover valve, that the middle switchover valve line goes to the ALDA, and that the switchover valve is clear (blow through it) first. Often the switchover valve gets blocked from EGR gunk or a line is broken/knocked off.
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  #33  
Old 04-24-2011, 06:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by babymog View Post
Alda alda alda.

I also don't know why this hasn't been done, unless people would rather type than try a free and simple known maintenance item.

I believe it is in the Combustion portion of the FSM under Programmed Repairs, look for complaint of low power under 2500RPM.

1-1/2 turns CCW has always worked for me, if it's too aggressive (slight smoke on takeoff or too much pep) then back it off some. It's so common and fits your symptom perfectly, ... just do it.

You can check first to see if the ALDA will hold pressure, that the line from the intake plenum is clear (blow through it to be sure), that the line from the intake plenum goes to the BOTTOM of the switchover valve, that the middle switchover valve line goes to the ALDA, and that the switchover valve is clear (blow through it) first. Often the switchover valve gets blocked from EGR gunk or a line is broken/knocked off.
Okay Okay Okay!

On the 602, do I need to remove the intake manifold? Or can I use GSXR's method for the 603 and leave the intake manifold in place?
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  #34  
Old 04-24-2011, 11:31 AM
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I have done it on my 602 turbo with the intake in place, used a long-sharp screwdriver to destroy & remove the metal band around the plastic cap, removed the cap, spray-oiled the adjustment, loosened the lock-nut, turned the adjustment a little at a time with a piece of flat metal (hacksaw blade?) and re-tightened the lock-nut.

I've done the same on several 603t engines.

It is easier, and probably faster with the intake removed, and the gasket can be purchased at a local NAPA (one day delivery).

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