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#1
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Oil pouring out
well on my way for surgery today and stopped at a bank and when I come back to the car there was about 1/2 litre of oil by the front wheel and an outside body undercoat (what a mess) Anyways not wanting to get to filthy before surgery I discovered oil pouring out in front of the driver side wheel. I assume the inter cooler is suspect but anyone know if it would be most likely the cooler or the lines? I have a really good hydraulic shop close by but I am sure the fittings are not easy to come by. Anybody ever had them made? I am close to a dealer and could order the lines but it would be better if I could make them.
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#2
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Sounds like an oil cooler line leaking. best not to drive it until you replace the line, you will loose the engine oil pretty fast it it lets go. 1/2 litre on the ground after stopped for a few minutes is not a good sign.
There are a couple camps on this issue. some say to replace with OEM hoses, and others remove the lines and have a hydraulic shop crimp on new hoses to the pipe and the end that attaches to the oil cooler. You will still have to remove the line from the engine to do the job. You didn`t mention which model car this is, Iam assuming a W123? the hoses are around $75 each new, and are a DIY job, just a PITA to do. then after you are done, you can say it is a piece of cake to do. ![]() If it is leaking as much as you said, do not drive the car. and if you do/did check the oil level. There are plenty of oil cooler lines threads posted over the years. Here is a link to hours of reading. ![]() http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/211352-engine-oil-cooler-hose-line-issue-link-thread-post1738108.html Charlie
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616... 1) Not much power 2) Even less power 3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast. 80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works |
#3
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Besides the Oil Cooler Hoses just getting old and leaking some Members have had their Drivers side (US modesels) Motor Mounts collaspe and have the Power Steering Belt cut through one of the Oil Cooler Hoses.
I have only read of this happening ounce but someone had the Plastic Oil Supply line to the Fuel Injection Pump Crack and leak out Oil. Is it Engine Oil or Transmission Fluid; the Transmission Cooler lines are the as are the Power Steering Lines. If a Oil Cooler Hose or Hoses need replacing remember that there is a chance that the Aluminum Nipples on the Oil Cooler may strip the threads when the Oil Cooler Hose is removed. If you have a 617.* there is a repair for that. Oil Cooler Repair pics and parts. Has part number for screwed nipple Search = Screwed nipple 915013-013002 Oil cooler repair - help needed... I the DIY section there is also a way to avoid stripping the threads where you make 2 length wise cuts on opposite sides of the Oil Cooler Hose nuts. And, stick something in the cut and split the Nuts apart. If you ding up the Oil Cooler Nipple Threads that is not a serious issue because the Hoses do not seal on the threaded area of the Nipples. I do not know if the repair proceedure will apply for either of your vehicles; 1990 300SEL/1987 300TDT. But, the splitting of the Oil Cooler Line Nuts ought to work on all of them if there is room to get at them.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#4
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I have a w124, I always forget to mention that! I somehow think everyone must know what I drive. I don't think I will drive it, I have a car carrier and a 3/4 ton diesel to pull it with so better safe than sorry. If the engine goes it is just junk then as I could not afford to repair. Can the hoses be made for the 124?
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#5
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YES
Your Hydraulics Shop can crimp on New hoses.
T'Were Me,I'd remove the Hoses and Cooler INTACT. Then the Shop can remove the old hose crimps and Hoses. Then they install the New hoses and New crimps in the proper Orientation using the existing fittings. (Never even need to touch the Dreaded Cooler Line Nuts or Nipples!)
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'84 300SD sold 124.128 |
#6
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Quote:
I wonder what resources are available in his area?
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#7
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What surgery? Hopefully nothing major. I hope everything went well.
Your car was just crying because it was concerned about you. |
#8
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Quote:
Take a few days if your surgery was involved in any way before getting on this. No major damage hopefully to either of you. |
#9
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[QUOTE=C Holmes;2710521]I have a w124, I always forget to mention that! I somehow think everyone must know what I drive. I don't think I will drive it, I have a car carrier and a 3/4 ton diesel to pull it with so better safe than sorry. If the engine goes it is just junk then as I could not afford to repair. Can the hoses be made for the 124?[/QUOTE]
Does this mean you have identified the leak as coming from one of the Oil Cooler Hoses?
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#10
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A good hydraulic shop can make hoses for anything.
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Whoever said there's nothing more expensive than a cheap Mercedes never had a cheap Jaguar. 83 300D Turbo with manual conversion, early W126 vented front rotors and H4 headlights 401,xxx miles 08 Suzuki GSX-R600 M4 Slip-on 26,xxx miles 88 Jaguar XJS V12 94,xxx miles. Work in progress. 99 Mazda Miata 183,xxx miles. |
#11
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On my car the oil cooler itself was the problem. Rocks can kill it, but in my case it was a faulty repair of the hard line going to the cooler.
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1991 350SD (updated rods) Biodiesel B100 when I can find it. Dino when really cold outside |
#12
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Turns out to be a line rusted through where it goes to the cooler. I am not sure if the hydro shop could make or not. Let me rephrase, get the proper fittings to fit it. Surgery was on my fingers. I caught them in a large drill a year ago and broke 8 out of 8 knuckles, 4 really bad so I can't bend them now and they are trying to fix that. Hard to work on MB with broke knuckles but I make out OK. Can anyone tell me what kind of a challenge it will be getting the hoses off? I am not sure there is a wrench for that!
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#13
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There are some who have been successful, many have not. The nut seems to seize to the cooler in many instances and it is tough to do without damaging the cooler.
There is some method others have used putting new rubber lines on the metal lines, but if your metal lines are shot I don't know the solution. I do have a spare with old original lines in the garage which I will consider selling if you need one.
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![]() Gone to the dark side - Jeff |
#14
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Gentle heating and cooling cycles may help ( propane torch ?)... and after that.. Kroil or half and half ATF and lacquer or other solvent... fix in container you can just leave it in for a few days if possible...let hydraulic head help.... as compared to just putting it on and most of it running off...
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/10414-help-i-need-check-stretch.html http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
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