W124 Subframe Mounts - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

DieselPaul · #1 05-14-2011, 03:47 PM

Well as I'm pulling the carrier to do the rear wheel bearing I see my lower drivers side control arm has a rust hole in it. And the whole subframe is surface rusty, but I do not see any more holes. My subframe mounts are toast, so I think I may as well go ahead and do the subframe mounts, and POR15 some stuff while I am in there.

My plan was to do the Sportline rear subframe mounts, I did some extensive looking around a long time ago and I have the part number

2023503408

saved, its available from most parts places for around $60 for the pair. From the dealer this p/n is $77.22 each.

However Benzworld is saying 202-351-09-42 is the sportline rear number from the dealer this is $26 each.

But looking at the picture they look the same, taller than the original W124 mounts and include new plates and longer bolts.

the 351 mounts
http://users.zhonka.net/zeitgeist/300TD%20Mods/Suspension/Sportline%20sub-bush%20retainer%20top.jpg

the 350 mounts
http://www.autocarspare.com/catalog/suspension-bushing-kit/2023503408.html

Do both work?

Also, for the "sportline" conversion are the forward mounts standard, or is there a sportline version of that as well? I'm trying to sort though all of these pages I stored on firefox.

sixto · #2 05-14-2011, 04:04 PM

Maybe these images will help -

Sixto
87 300D

DieselPaul · #3 05-14-2011, 04:28 PM

Fastlane is pretty much the only place that sells front bushing for the W124. Can I use the 202/sportline rear bushings with standard front bushings? I know its not the best way to do it, but cost is somewhat of a factor now, but the standard rear, and sportline/202 rears are the same price, so if I can do some upgrading under there, why not?

Also, both of the part numbers in the picture come up as front control arm bushings.

I'd like to order the bushes tomorrow so they will go out in the mail tomorrow, or I can order them from the dealer on monday.

I'm going to try to drop my subframe tomorrow, wish me luck on that half of the job.

sixto · #4 05-14-2011, 04:51 PM

I guess I confirmed myself as an idiot

I can't tell if these are front or rear -

I'm guessing rear -

Sixto
87 300D

DieselPaul · #5 05-14-2011, 05:03 PM

The part numbers in the picture are backwards according to Mercedes of Fort Lauderdale.

202-990 is the bolt

202-352 is the stop plate.

Mercedes of Fort Lauderdale is saying $67.40 + $10/ship for the rear kit. Doesn't sound too bad to me.

I'm looking at Fastlane for the front bushings. That is saying $15.45 each for the front bushings, but $80 if I want the "kit" with the bolts and another small sliver of rubber. My bolts aren't badly rusted, do I really need to pay $50 for bolts?

Also, in terms of installation, I've been reading how to's and none of them seem to have a ton of overlap.

People on BenzUK say you can do one mount at a time and tilt the subframe, or so I gathered. But I see most people here just drop the whole thing as a unit. It almost seems easier to drop it as a unit, do all 4, do some wire wheel and POR15 while I'm in there, and pop it back up in there.

Do I need a spring compressor to do this job?

johnscars · #6 05-14-2011, 05:23 PM

Good luck with the sub-frame. When you get this sorted please post the part numbers... and your opinion on needing $$ new bolts
Thanks.

babymog · #7 05-14-2011, 09:34 PM

I pulled the subframe on my '87 sedan without a spring compressor, just using jacks and jackstands so I know it can be done. Further, if there is rust etc, I'd suggest dropping it so that you can get a good look around and get it all repaired, Bhodi did this on her car and there is a pretty extensive diary of her process with photos, search "subframe" and I bet you'll find it.

She also had the same problem that I had with my '87 sedan (a Michigan car): the rear mounts were seized to the car. On mine I was scrapping the body so I eventually gave up and cut them off, I don't remember what her solution was. You might start with soaking those suckers, I believe that there is a dissimilar metal interface there that could go through some molecule migration / electro-galvanic corrosion or something, to create one mass.

You said a rust hole through the control arm? I'd toss that arm and contact David Hendy for a solid used one.

DieselPaul · #8 05-14-2011, 09:53 PM

I sent David a message before I started this thread haha. I got my spindle from him for the other half of this project.

I'll try to start pulling the subframe tomorrow. Any more input on what to order? I need to get this job done ASAP.

babymog · #9 05-14-2011, 10:54 PM

Rubber parts. Be careful with the SLS lines and brake lines, and watch the ABS sensor wire that goes into the differential.

DieselPaul · #10 05-15-2011, 12:31 AM

Oscar is a 300D, not a TDT, no SLS lines.

I remember I saved the whole read subframe out of my parts car, tomorrow I'll see what my rear control arms look like on that.

sixto · #11 05-15-2011, 12:33 AM

Aren't the aluminum LCAs from the wagon or later 124s interchangeable with the ferrous LCAs in sedans? Seems like a worthwhile upgrade where corrosion is an issue. Hendy would know.

Sixto
87 300D

DieselPaul · #12 05-15-2011, 01:47 AM

Whoa, aluminum LCAs... don't tempt me like that lol.

sixto · #13 05-15-2011, 01:46 PM

Oops, it's not the LCA, it's another arm that the wagon has in aluminum.

And there is no Sportline spec front bushing.

Sixto
87 300D

babymog · #14 05-15-2011, 02:39 PM

I was wondering about that, didn't remember any aluminum LCAs on the T-sedan.

DieselPaul · #15 05-16-2011, 12:58 AM

Alright kewl, so I'll order the rears from MB-FL or my local dealer if they are in dealing mood, sometime they go wholesale, sometimes they don't.

I'll order the front mounts from fastlane tomorrow.