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  #16  
Old 05-27-2011, 12:31 AM
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My 240 with a york compressor cools very well. 95 today, 6 hours of driving, and never put it more then about half way on the dial, low fan speed too, wife put a jacket on...

Must say the 300 never did very well though.

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  #17  
Old 05-27-2011, 12:42 AM
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Yak gets the prize.... but I am going to focus the cause a little sharper because he only listed the main one in a list of other important ones... ("Thoroughly clean all the heat exchangers (radiator, condensor, evaporator, heater core)" -Yak
When you have read enough threads on THIS forum and studied the physics of AC one of these stands out most.
While the condensor is by definition the bottle neck of all AC systems... meaning that with enough air flow across it many less than ideal performing components will not be noticeable .....
The one other item most neglected even in what people think are ' total ' renewing of our systems is THE EVAPORATOR cleanliness.
Here is the eye opening thread by Dmorrison ... the first the short one with the picture... and the second one why most people do not address getting it clean.... ( access )....

evaporator out of the 300TD

Order for installing evap box in a W123.

You can not be effective in cooling a car if the exact opposite end of the system ( and equally able to nix the cool air ) from the condensor is caked with stuff so that air can not flow across its fins...
All of the things Yak said are true and important. But from now on when reading what people have done to their systems and are complaining that it is not like new... think about the evaporator fins.
Greg



Quote:
Originally Posted by Yak View Post
If you read enough threads, some will say their factory OE AC with R-12 is ice cold, low 30's for vent temps and turns their hands blue. Maybe true, but most likely AC performance in the older cars is dependent on the condition and cleanliness of the components and the charge.

Thoroughly clean all the heat exchangers (radiator, condensor, evaporator, heater core), make sure there's no weirdness going on with the heater adding heat due to malfunctioning valves, then see what happens. That's probably easier than re-plumbing for a new compressor design, particularly since the refrigerant and air still has to use those same components regardless of the source of the compressed R-12.
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  #18  
Old 05-27-2011, 01:25 AM
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http://www.ackits.com/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=01&Product_Code=6984TSI&Category_Code=coretreatment

I have been using that with good luck on my cars with higher miles. Some pretty nasty stuff drips out from under the car as the foaming action works. I just figured clean condenser/evap core was a given. I should remember we are not all up to speed on mobile HVAC... I know I sure was not 10 years ago.



FWIW my SD puts out about 34°F from the vents. Not bad for the R4 on R12.
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  #19  
Old 05-27-2011, 02:06 AM
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I think they're a little weak in slow moving traffic or at a standstill (w123). But, like on a recent trip to Las Vegas, I had to turn the A/C off and/or turn the temp wheel up in order to keep from getting frozen. Oh, it's r134 too...

But yeah, my 05 does regulate temps better...
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  #20  
Old 05-27-2011, 02:58 AM
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Well I agree that cleanliness is the main factor in getting an efficient a/c operation, I also think an upgrade to a parallel condenser and tinting the windows will do wonders.

You have to remember the TDI’s cabin square footage is much smaller then an SDL. So that mean the a/c has to remove heat from the seats, panels and etc. This is where having tinted windows will aid in keeping the interior from absorbing the sun’s heat while car is sitting in the sun and while driving.
Also having a clean evaporator as leathermang pointed out in the dmorrison writeups aids in the air flow to help remove heat from the interior parts. Adapting a cabin air filter for keeping dirt away from the evaporator is a good idea.



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  #21  
Old 05-27-2011, 07:46 AM
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Thanks for the info guys. I'll be sure to clean the evaporator, I'm sure it's all gunged up. I *think* my SDL has a parallell flow condenser... or at least a flat tube kind. It looks different than older cars, and the EPC says its specific to the 350SD(L), just like the 3 piece driveshaft

-J
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  #22  
Old 05-27-2011, 07:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hit Man X View Post


FWIW my SD puts out about 34°F from the vents. Not bad for the R4 on R12.
This is my goal

-J
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  #23  
Old 05-27-2011, 06:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by compu_85 View Post
Thanks for the info guys. I'll be sure to clean the evaporator, I'm sure it's all gunged up. I *think* my SDL has a parallell flow condenser... or at least a flat tube kind. It looks different than older cars, and the EPC says its specific to the 350SD(L), just like the 3 piece driveshaft

-J


Make sure both of your aux fans work, too. These are a nice PITA to break down from the front of the car, so take your time and prepare to be amazed at the amount of crap that is trapped!

If you have the time, buy a fin comb to straighten them all once you remove all the dead bugs and rocks.

The condenser is specific to your car due to their dual fan mounts. Otherwise a 3.0 SDL or '85 SD condenser should bolt up fine. I know this as I considered going to the 3.5L condenser when I had my SD's system open.

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'85 300SD 245k
'87 300SDL 251k
'90 300SEL 326k

Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford.

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