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#16
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My 240 with a york compressor cools very well. 95 today, 6 hours of driving, and never put it more then about half way on the dial, low fan speed too, wife put a jacket on...
Must say the 300 never did very well though.
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1977 240D turbo |
#17
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Yak gets the prize.... but I am going to focus the cause a little sharper because he only listed the main one in a list of other important ones... ("Thoroughly clean all the heat exchangers (radiator, condensor, evaporator, heater core)" -Yak
When you have read enough threads on THIS forum and studied the physics of AC one of these stands out most. While the condensor is by definition the bottle neck of all AC systems... meaning that with enough air flow across it many less than ideal performing components will not be noticeable ..... The one other item most neglected even in what people think are ' total ' renewing of our systems is THE EVAPORATOR cleanliness. Here is the eye opening thread by Dmorrison ... the first the short one with the picture... and the second one why most people do not address getting it clean.... ( access ).... evaporator out of the 300TD Order for installing evap box in a W123. You can not be effective in cooling a car if the exact opposite end of the system ( and equally able to nix the cool air ) from the condensor is caked with stuff so that air can not flow across its fins... All of the things Yak said are true and important. But from now on when reading what people have done to their systems and are complaining that it is not like new... think about the evaporator fins. Greg Quote:
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/10414-help-i-need-check-stretch.html http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
#18
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http://www.ackits.com/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=01&Product_Code=6984TSI&Category_Code=coretreatment
I have been using that with good luck on my cars with higher miles. Some pretty nasty stuff drips out from under the car as the foaming action works. I just figured clean condenser/evap core was a given. I should remember we are not all up to speed on mobile HVAC... I know I sure was not 10 years ago. FWIW my SD puts out about 34°F from the vents. Not bad for the R4 on R12.
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I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look. '85 300SD 245k '87 300SDL 251k '90 300SEL 326k Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford. Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG] |
#19
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I think they're a little weak in slow moving traffic or at a standstill (w123). But, like on a recent trip to Las Vegas, I had to turn the A/C off and/or turn the temp wheel up in order to keep from getting frozen. Oh, it's r134 too...
But yeah, my 05 does regulate temps better...
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1982 240 D, 308,000 - 321,127 miles (sold) 1982 300 TD,166,500 - 226,000 miles 1998 E 320, 120,000 - 144,000 miles 2005 C 230 K, 26,000 - 77,000 miles (sold) |
#20
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Well I agree that cleanliness is the main factor in getting an efficient a/c operation, I also think an upgrade to a parallel condenser and tinting the windows will do wonders.
You have to remember the TDI’s cabin square footage is much smaller then an SDL. So that mean the a/c has to remove heat from the seats, panels and etc. This is where having tinted windows will aid in keeping the interior from absorbing the sun’s heat while car is sitting in the sun and while driving. Also having a clean evaporator as leathermang pointed out in the dmorrison writeups aids in the air flow to help remove heat from the interior parts. Adapting a cabin air filter for keeping dirt away from the evaporator is a good idea. .
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1983 123.133 California - GreaseCar Veg System |
#21
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Thanks for the info guys. I'll be sure to clean the evaporator, I'm sure it's all gunged up. I *think* my SDL has a parallell flow condenser... or at least a flat tube kind. It looks different than older cars, and the EPC says its specific to the 350SD(L), just like the 3 piece driveshaft
-J
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1991 350SDL. 230,000 miles (new motor @ 150,000). Blown head gasket Tesla Model 3. 205,000 miles. Been to 48 states! Past: A fleet of VW TDIs.... including a V10,a Dieselgate Passat, and 2 ECOdiesels. 2014 Cadillac ELR 2013 Fiat 500E. |
#22
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Quote:
-J
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1991 350SDL. 230,000 miles (new motor @ 150,000). Blown head gasket Tesla Model 3. 205,000 miles. Been to 48 states! Past: A fleet of VW TDIs.... including a V10,a Dieselgate Passat, and 2 ECOdiesels. 2014 Cadillac ELR 2013 Fiat 500E. |
#23
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Quote:
Make sure both of your aux fans work, too. These are a nice PITA to break down from the front of the car, so take your time and prepare to be amazed at the amount of crap that is trapped! If you have the time, buy a fin comb to straighten them all once you remove all the dead bugs and rocks. The condenser is specific to your car due to their dual fan mounts. Otherwise a 3.0 SDL or '85 SD condenser should bolt up fine. I know this as I considered going to the 3.5L condenser when I had my SD's system open.
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I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look. '85 300SD 245k '87 300SDL 251k '90 300SEL 326k Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford. Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG] |
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