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  #31  
Old 06-14-2011, 02:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike-81-240d View Post
The link works correctly, but they dont have the correct W123 springs.
OK so you want w123 as well here's a place in the UK

http://www.dcperformance.co.uk/uprated/h_r-lowering-springs/mercedes/w123.html

At their price in GBP it comes to about $400 - shipping shouldn't be another 200...

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  #32  
Old 06-14-2011, 02:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike-81-240d View Post
Most people that lower their W123's are trying to bring them down to a modern ride hieght, like for example a 2011 E550. Our cars stock look like monster trucks, compare to a new Mercedes.
There's something to be said for NOT busting your oil pan on a rock*, and for being able to do an oil change without a jack, and for a few extra inches in the snow before the undercarriage starts dragging. Most modern cars sit too low.

*Which I managed to do on my 240D once.
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  #33  
Old 06-14-2011, 03:44 PM
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Seems like Skippy is happy with his setup. So that's all that matters.


The H&R set up is a 2 inch cut front and rear. Very conservative.

It is not the slammed set up that is popular with urban youth. slammed = a 4 inch front cut = zero gap which they called tucked. I slammed my front and encounters some setbacks. I have a negative .5 inch wheel gap in front.

I think I want the "fudged slammed" cut. 3 inch cut with 1 inch gap that looks like no gap.

If i replace the 1 nub with 3 nub front shims, I will add some gap.

When I go from 190 70 15 tires to 205 45 16 wheels, I am not sure what that will do to the gap.
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Last edited by English Bulldog; 06-15-2011 at 12:34 AM.
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  #34  
Old 06-14-2011, 11:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skippy View Post
There's something to be said for NOT busting your oil pan on a rock*, and for being able to do an oil change without a jack, and for a few extra inches in the snow before the undercarriage starts dragging. Most modern cars sit too low.

*Which I managed to do on my 240D once.
I have a radiator protection plate, as well as a oil pan skid plate. OEM of course.
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  #35  
Old 06-15-2011, 12:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike-81-240d View Post
I have a radiator protection plate, as well as a oil pan skid plate. OEM of course.
Radiator skid plates are uber rare. Never seen one for sale. Don't know anyone else who has one.

but then again, never heard of anyone busting up their radiator, but lots of people say they cracked a pan.

It evens the playing field between making the choice between a w-123 and a camel when driving through the sahara.

The nice thing about radiator plates is that it is MB OEM part that no one has.
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  #36  
Old 06-15-2011, 05:49 AM
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I have a brand new skid pan in the box for sale for a hundred bucks.
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  #37  
Old 06-15-2011, 12:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by t walgamuth View Post
I have a brand new skid pan in the box for sale for a hundred bucks.
is this the oil pan or the radiator pan skid plate?

When I go from 190 70 15 tires to 205 45 16 wheels, I am not sure if it will increase or decrease or do nothing to the amount of front wheel gap.
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  #38  
Old 06-15-2011, 02:53 PM
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The 16's are over 2" shorter than the 15's. This will increase your gap by about an inch.

http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/TireCalc
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83 300D Turbo with manual conversion, early W126 vented front rotors and H4 headlights 401,xxx miles
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  #39  
Old 06-15-2011, 04:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skippy View Post
The 16's are over 2" shorter than the 15's. This will increase your gap by about an inch.

http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/TireCalc

That might take care of some problems and give room to put the comforts on.
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  #40  
Old 06-15-2011, 05:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by English Bulldog View Post
is this the oil pan or the radiator pan skid plate?

When I go from 190 70 15 tires to 205 45 16 wheels, I am not sure if it will increase or decrease or do nothing to the amount of front wheel gap.
I was not aware there was a radiator skid plate.
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  #41  
Old 06-15-2011, 06:42 PM
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Cutting springs will increase the spring rate, as discussed at length. If by nubs or shims, you mean shims that raise a car by keeping a portion of the spring from compressing under load, that will reduce the active coils in the spring, and make it even stiffer.
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  #42  
Old 06-15-2011, 06:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moon161 View Post
Cutting springs will increase the spring rate, as discussed at length. If by nubs or shims, you mean shims that raise a car by keeping a portion of the spring from compressing under load, that will reduce the active coils in the spring, and make it even stiffer.
I seen those. Those are clamps that keep some of the coils together and bring the car lower. Pass on those.

Shims or donuts are round hard rubber pads that the springs sit on. They come in 3 different sizes. The shortest one has a non-functional half round nub or bump on it. The next size has two bumps and the biggest three nubs.
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  #43  
Old 06-15-2011, 07:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by t walgamuth View Post
I was not aware there was a radiator skid plate.

Yep, I saw a picture of one once. I think it bolts on to the car and also the oil pan skid plate.

Your oil pan skid plate is priced correctly. Peace of mind. It will sell soon.
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  #44  
Old 06-15-2011, 07:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skippy View Post
The 16's are over 2" shorter than the 15's. This will increase your gap by about an inch.

http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/TireCalc

This is good news. So I will go to a negative .5 inch gap to a positive .5 inch gap. Then add the larger 3 nub shim and get maybe an inch gap.

Depending on the off-set of the new wheels, I might not rub the front tires.

Then change out to comforts and replace the mushroomed lca bushing with a greased urethane one and hopefully get lowered and keep some of the great synchronous wallow.
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  #45  
Old 06-15-2011, 07:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by English Bulldog View Post
Yep, I saw a picture of one once. I think it bolts on to the car and also the oil pan skid plate.
Something to keep in mind, if anyone's thinking of designing one of their own: Skid pans have to be bolted to something sturdy enough to take a substantial portion of the car's weight. Otherwise you're just creating damage somewhere else, possibly somewhere more expensive. At the instant you hit something big with the skid plate, it's essentially supporting that end of the car, potentially with a lot of momentum behind it...

A skid pan that can't take weight is really only good against flying rocks.

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