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  #1  
Old 07-01-2011, 05:51 PM
Andy
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 26
IP 180deg off, is this possible?

HI Guys,

I purchased this 220D from a fellow who told me that car just stopped running??? I think I have found the problem. I have good fuel, glow and battery but I think the fuel/injection pump is off 180 deg, is this possible?
I turned the crank 24deg BTDC and did the drip test and she flows like a river. I turned the crank another 360 deg, again to 24deg BTDC on the next rotation (not for #1 cylinder) and the drip test can be set. With the limited knowledge that I have I can only assume that the pump is 180 deg off.

How do I change this? I have no idea what all has been done to the car but it looks as if it has had a good amount of attention recently. New starter, battery, hoses and such. I think all it needs is to have the timing corrected.

Andrew


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  #2  
Old 07-01-2011, 06:06 PM
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If it was 180 degrees off, it wouldn't be injecting on the compression stroke, right? So figure out if #1 is injecting when the #1 cylinder is at the top of its compression stroke.
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  #3  
Old 07-01-2011, 06:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slow-Poke-220D View Post
I turned the crank 24deg BTDC and did the drip test and she flows like a river.
What happens to the flow if you advance the crankshaft slowly past 24*BTDC (toward TDC?)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Slow-Poke-220D View Post
I think I have found the problem.
I wouldn't bet on it. Sounds like you need to understand the "drip" method a bit better before you jump to conclusions.
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  #4  
Old 07-01-2011, 06:26 PM
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Andrew, there use to be a lot of Guru's on this forum that could answer your question. I would say that if you spent just a little time doing some really basic search on the "Diesel" part of the forum, you would get more info then you could read in an evening. I don't have an answer except to say that at 79 years of age I would be scared to death of messing with the IP. It is very critical, but we have guys that can do it. Just go to search and find them!
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Old 07-01-2011, 06:35 PM
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Here I come up with 8 pages of Forum talk on "Setting injection pump" You should get them all by clicking on this. That is a lot to read, but I bet the answer is in there.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/search.php?searchid=5768850
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Christianity, if false, is of no importance, and if true, of infinite importance. The only thing it cannot be is moderately important. C.S. Lewis



1983 Mercedes W123 240D 4 Speed 285,000 on the road with a 617 turbo, beautiful butter yellow, license plate # 83 240D INDIANA

2003 Jaguar Type X, AWD. beautiful, good mileage,
Mom's car, but I won't let her drive it!
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  #6  
Old 07-01-2011, 07:53 PM
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To answer your question; with out someone pulling the Fuel Injection Pump off of the Engine and re-installing it wrong it cannot be 180 Degrees off.
For what ever thier reasons previous owners do not always say the truth.

I would suggest checking the Camshaft Timing First to see if that is correct since the Timing Chain turns the Fuel Injection Pump.
Not hard to do. Line the Timing Mark on the Camshaft Gear up with the one on the Camshaft Bearing Tower and look down at the degree marks on the Crankshaft Damper.

Another issue is that the Degree Pointer sometimes bent or otherwise moved around.

Below is the rest of the repar section:
DIY Repair Links
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diy-links-parts-category/

http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/DoItYourSelf
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  #7  
Old 07-01-2011, 10:53 PM
Andy
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 26
Quote:
Originally Posted by Diesel911 View Post
To answer your question; with out someone pulling the Fuel Injection Pump off of the Engine and re-installing it wrong it cannot be 180 Degrees off.
For what ever thier reasons previous owners do not always say the truth.

I would suggest checking the Camshaft Timing First to see if that is correct since the Timing Chain turns the Fuel Injection Pump.
Not hard to do. Line the Timing Mark on the Camshaft Gear up with the one on the Camshaft Bearing Tower and look down at the degree marks on the Crankshaft Damper.

Another issue is that the Degree Pointer sometimes bent or otherwise moved around.

Below is the rest of the repar section:
DIY Repair Links
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/forumdisplay.php?f=82

http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/DoItYourSelf
Hi,

I followed the DoItYourSelf article for timing the IP and all I get is a steady stream from the drip tube even when I push the IP as near to the engine as possible. I will try again in the morning. The car has sat here for over 8 months now and I might as well try and get her going. Its a nice car and it would be great to get it on the road. I will part it out this winter if I fail to get her going.

Thank you for your comments and links.

Andrew
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  #8  
Old 07-02-2011, 12:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slow-Poke-220D View Post
Hi,

I followed the DoItYourSelf article for timing the IP and all I get is a steady stream from the drip tube even when I push the IP as near to the engine as possible.
That happens when the timing is retarded to the point that you run out of adjustment before reaching the desired start of delivery point. Not at all uncommon. You will need to remove the IP and re-index it to allow the necessary range of movement for adjustment.

To determine the actual start of delivery, rotate the crankshaft, not the IP.
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  #9  
Old 07-02-2011, 09:02 AM
Andy
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 26
Quote:
Originally Posted by tangofox007 View Post
That happens when the timing is retarded to the point that you run out of adjustment before reaching the desired start of delivery point. Not at all uncommon. You will need to remove the IP and re-index it to allow the necessary range of movement for adjustment.

To determine the actual start of delivery, rotate the crankshaft, not the IP.

Hi Tangofox,

Is there a DIY article or any information on re-indexing an IP?

Regards,
Andrew
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  #10  
Old 07-02-2011, 09:47 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 8,957
Quote:
Originally Posted by Slow-Poke-220D View Post

Is there a DIY article or any information on re-indexing an IP?
The procedure is the same as when installing a new or replacement IP.
Set the crankshaft at desired start-of-delivery position, remove IP, align IP index marks, reinstall IP in center of adjustment range. Then adjust SOD.

You could probably get away with just pulling the IP out, rotating it (the entire pump, not the shaft only) in the retard direction, then reinstalling it. That will give you the needed range of movement in the "advance" direction.

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