I don't see how it's possible to clean the entire evap coil through the blower motor opening. I tried that today and there was a plastic diverter blocking me from getting to at least half of it. + it is so thick I don't see how could can get it all nice and shiny all the way through.

I'm planning to tear apart the dash tomorrow to get at it. Anyone know if I can leave the evap coil in place and access it all by taking off the top of the plastic 'box'? I'd rather not evac if if I didn't need to

__________________
85' 300D

After reading the 'how to remove the dash' pictorial from DMorrison, I will try to clean mine through the blower motor access point... It's quite painful and labor intensive. If you find some easy way to do it, please clue us in.

Thanks,

Packman

__________________
83 240D - 4 speed manual - Manilla Beige
189K miles, Tachometer mod, cool wooden shift knob from PeachParts, CocoMats, Original factory paint, manual windows, manual sunroof. Starting to add AudioWrap to this car too!

THANK YOU for the replies ! .

I hope someone will soon post up more pix and ' how I did it ' comments .

I have three W-123's still and my Coupe is awash with condensate water...

__________________
-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

Jubjub, It may not be possible... it may also take access through the center vent/s ......
Take pictures if you can... just to help you put it back together if nothing else.... but we would be interested in seeing them too...

__________________
1980 240d ,

chain elongation, cam marks reference:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/10414-help-i-need-check-stretch.html

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html

evap fin cleaning:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator

A/C thread

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html

I'm doing a W116 so yours may be different.

I can get to almost the entire coil through the boot between the blower and center section here:



I can get to the rest through a rubber boot/plug on the other side behind the instruments:



It's a tedious work but I'm getting it a lot cleaner than I thought would be possible.

In hindsight I think the best way to do it would be to rig up a vacuum wand and suck all the dry debris out first, then use a compressed air wand to dislodge any loose debris and then flood it with water. Then use some commercial cleaner to get the fins shiny!

__________________
My occupational hazard bein'
my occupation's just not around...
1980 300SD
1980 300SD

I know this post is for the 126. Does anyone know if I can get to most of the evaporator in an 85 W123 for cleaning by removing the blower motor?

The can of evap spray cleaner's instructions says nothing has to be removed. They recommend spraying it up through the evap drain till foam comes out the vents. It chemically cleans in about 15 minutes. As the bubbles collapse, it sucks down the dirt and it suppose to come out the drain. That sounds pretty good if it works. I guess the only way to verify that is to be able to look into the evap.

__________________
85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 167,870 July 2025
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

So ;

Didja try this ? .

I need to clean my W-123's evaporators and would like more details and photos before I proceed and screw something up .

TIA ,

__________________
-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

i think the only thing you can screw up is if your evaporator drain tube is destroyed or missing and the cleaner ends up dripping down onto the carpets. on a w123 you can get to a large portion of the evaporator through the blower motor hole. i'm a small enough person that i handheld a small brush to help with cleaning.

__________________
1981 NA 300D 310k miles

Awesome I am inspired to try this myself. Especially on the 124 that I am sure is completely junked up.

+1 on the caution on checking the condition of the drain, or else all that junk will end up on your floor boards.

__________________
The OM 642/722.9 powered family
Still going strong
2014 ML350 Bluetec (wife's DD)
2013 E350 Bluetec (my DD)

both my kids cars went to junkyard in 2023
2008 ML320 CDI (Older son’s DD) fatal transmission failure, water soaked/fried rear SAM, numerous other issues, just too far gone to save (165k miles)
2008 E320 Bluetec (Younger son's DD) injector failed open and diluted oil with diesel, spun main bearings (240k miles)

1998 E300DT sold to TimFreeh
1987 300TD sold to vstech

With as much work as folks have tried to clean this without removing, they could've probably had system evacuated, the dash out, AC box fully removed and cleaned.

Not to mention, you'd get a chance to fully check both the evap and the heater core and be 80% the way of replacement if they need it.

I'm all for saving a buck or two, but sometimes the manic miserly methods promoted on here are absolutely gobsmacking.

Sometimes, we need to buck up and put in the elbow grease to do a job correctly.

__________________
'85 300TD "Puff The Magic Wagon" - Rolling Resto
'19 Mazda CX-9 Signature - Wife's sled
'21 Morgan 3-Wheeler P101 Edition
'95 E300d - SOLD
'84 300TD "Brown Betty" - Miss this one
'81 240D "China Baby" - Farm grocery getter

I'm a Journeyman Mechanic and the thought of all those niggly bits in the dash coming out , doesn't make me happy .

Thanx for the replies , although using the AC wets my passenger side carpets , when I blasted the evaporator box with the hose nozzle , not ONE DROP of water dripped out onto the floor so I'm keen to spend more labor on this , I wish I could find the foamy cleaning stuff in So. Cal. , taking the lower motor out is dead easy .

__________________
-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

I agree, X2.

Charlie

__________________
there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

THANX Charlie ! .

I'm still trying to figure out how I got so much condensate water in the passenger side footwell yet not a drop when I ran the garden hose in there via the blower motor opening...... .

FWIW , I'd replaced the blower's brushes a year or so ago with the Mercedes Source kit , it was easy but the commutator was worn unevenly and has been worrying me so I bought a new Uro brand blower and installed it ~ it works great but is *much* noisier than the original Mercedes blower ever was .

I can hear that electric motor whine in addition to the squirrel cage noise .

On the other hand , I now have more air volume and that's good .

I'm about the install a SANDEN 7 series AC compressor and a new condenser plus an expansion valve as the system is charged and has pressure but only blows luke warm air no matter what .

The current R4 compressor was apparently replaced not long ago , it's a DELPHI (AC Delco's new name) unit , # 52390419 that's been trouble free as long as I've owned this Coupe .

I'll save it and prolly install in in my European 300TD that I'm pretty sure still has the original 1984 compressor in it , leaks out the charge in a few months every time I re charge it .

I include the AC Delco part # so others can find one cheaply .....

I'll report back on the SANDEN up grade after Summer .

__________________
-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

I used the spray can evap cleaner fron Autozone 2 summers ago and as I recall, it did not work that great because not much crud came out (I followed the instructions). I think the method presented here by 1980sd is far superior. The only thing I would do different is I would use LA Awesome cleaner and dilute it 10 to 1 and spray the solution onto the evaporator with a small plastic nozzle using a windshield washer pump. With the amazing grime cleaning power of LA Awesome and the forceful jet from the washer pump, the tooth brush is not necessary IMO, the jet of LA Awesome will easily blast all the grime away and leave it squeaky clean. LA Awesome is $1 a quart from Dollar General, mixed 10 to 1 you have 10 quarts and I wouldn't even consider filtering and recycling thru the pump (chance of clog if not filtered well). Much cheaper than evap foam cleaner ( I think the kit was around $17). With a cheap USB camera, you can easily verify results before/after.

__________________
85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 167,870 July 2025
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

If you are gonna do this, why not hook up the return to your feed bottle with a filter in it.. and just let the pump run for a couple of days ?

__________________
1985 300D 198K sold
1982 300D 202K
1989 300E 125K
1992 940T

"If you dont have time to do it safely, you dont have time to do it"

"The democracy will cease to exist when you take away from those who are willing to work and give to those who would not."