I bought 1993 300d, 5 cyl turbo, with 115k a couple weeks ago. It ran very well but had a leak from the valves on the injector pump. Last night, I changed all the o-rings and crush washers as described in the wiki diy here. After restarting, it is running very rough (chug-chug) and smoking. I am guessing that maybe one of the injectors got clogged during the work on the IP, or is it possible that I did some other damage to the IP or it's timing. From researching similar issues on this site it looks like the smoke is unburned fuel from misfiring. I was thinking about backing off the fuel lines on each injector while its running until I find out which injector/cylinder is having the problem and then inspecting/cleaning the injector and compression test the cylinder. I was also thinking it might be trapped air in the line and not sure if I should just keep running the engine for a while or if this might make something worse. Any ideas?

are the injector pipes in their correct places on the pump?

Good question. I want to say yes. But I'll check again when I get home. That would be a nice easy fix.

Pass on the cylinder compresion test if the engine was not smoking before you changed the element seals. A very much higher percentage factor is it has something to do with you changing those seals.

Good point Barry. I'll keep the compression test lower on my priorities. I'd rather wait to take the injector out also. I think I'll bleed the air more carefully when I get home and go from there.

That is a good idea.

Loosening the Fuel Injection Hard Line Nuts at the Injectors and Cranking is also a fast way to get rid of any Air in the Fuel Injection hard LInes.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Another note as suggested above: Anytime your vehicle displays new issues after you just worked on it, there is a good chance that the new problem is related to what you just did. This doesnt always mean you did something wrong, but perhaps need to do one more step.

Question: why is it so common that people want to check compression right away? Perfectly good running motor, something simple happens and compression is thought to be an issue. I understand that this is a standard test, but if something ran fine a while ago, it takes a HUGE failure to have a sudden effect upon compression.

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85 300D 3 pedal. Current project.
83 300TD (need rear wiper assembly dead or alive)
84 300SD Daily driver
85 300TD almost 400k miles and driven daily.
98 E300D *sold
86 300SDL *sold and made flawless 10 hour journey to new home.

OK. I opened all the injector ends of the hard lines and cranked it for a few 20 second cycles, then re-tightened the lines. There was good fuel from each hardline. Then I started the car and slightly opened each of the injector ends of the hard lines for 20-30 seconds after I saw some fuel.

It still has the same smoke and rough running sound. I made a video and put it on youtube for you guys. The quality of the sound was distorted but I hope you can hear the pattern of the firing when I open it up a little. You can also see the color of the smoke- a mixture black and grey http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CGeh9fRriSE It had zero smoke 2 days ago.

I'm new to diesels, and I'm used to working on cars alone, trial and error. So, the ideas are much appreciated. Using my old way of thinking, at this point, I'm inclined to remove the injectors and try inspecting and cleaning them. I have reopened the valves on the injector pump to make sure everything set right. I'm not sure what else could have gone wrong beside debris getting into the injectors; one of old IP valve o-rings was falling apart. Other ideas?

-Mark

Did you torque the delivery valves properly???

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Marty D.

2013 C300 4Matic
1984 BMW 733i
2013 Lincoln MKz

When you re-opened the Valves to check them that means you should have also changed the Copper Crush Washers again; they are supposed to be a 1 time use item.

I thought you had a handle on the Injector Cut Out test?
Loosen one Fuel Injection Hard Line/Tubing Nut at the Injector and pay attention to the reaction. If the Injector is good the RPMs should drop and it should be noticeable.

Tighten that one up and go to the next one and do the same.

When you find the bad one when you loosen the Line Nut at the Injector the RPMs will not change much. So now you have a suspect Injector.

Take the Suspect Injector and exchange positions with a good one. Re-do the Injector Cut Out test on those 2 Injectors. If the Problem followed the Suspect Injector to the new position there is a problem with the Injector.
If the problem stayed on the same Position as before you have a problem in the Engine or in the part of the Fuel Injection Pump that supplies that Cylinder.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

If you just changed out the delivery valve seals and crush washers, you would not have changed the timing of the IP. If it ran well before you did the job, then I would suggest that your re-do the delivery valve crush washers and seals. It is a cheap re-do as far as parts go, and just takes a little bit of time. It should also be noted that even when the job is done correctly, it sometimes takes a little time for all of the air to work its way out of the system. Parrot of doom put out an excellent DIY on changing out the delivery valve seals, and I would suggest you pay particular attention to the part about making sure that the lower elements are installed correctly, and the part about installing the valves by hand and rocking them as you screw them in. As explained the the piece, it helps center the elements as the valve is screwed back in. Once the valve is hand tightened, then you can torque it to specifications.

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96 E300d

Somebody has the torque specifications for delivery valve seals?

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Remember, Safety Third!
'99 E300 Turbodiesel, '82 300TD, 1996 12V Cummins Turbo, '94 Neoplan - Detroit 6V92TA

OM606 engine (W210 E300D/TD) delivery valve seals

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96 E300d

Right you are sir, I missed it on my first trip through that thread. Thanks.

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Remember, Safety Third!
'99 E300 Turbodiesel, '82 300TD, 1996 12V Cummins Turbo, '94 Neoplan - Detroit 6V92TA

Thanks for the ideas. I couldn't work on the car tonight because I had to take one of my boys to baseball practice. To address the torque issue, we stopped on the way home and got a torque wrench that will fit correctly inside this part of the engine compartment. I gather from the responces addressing torque that an exact torque may be very important.

Thanks to diesel911. I like the way you are thinking on this. I did notice one hardline not having as much of an effect on the idle, but I was looking for NO effect and ignored this until I read your reply. So, we picked up a 27mm deep socket on the way home also to remove an injector or two.

Renntag also had a good point, among others, "This doesnt always mean you did something wrong, but perhaps need to do one more step." I thought about this on the ride to work. I was hoping that bleeding the air carefully was that last step, but hey, even if it is a big job, a big job is just a collection of small steps. Not to get too philosophical, but we never know when it's going to be our last step either, so let's enjoy the ride.

It costs 37 dollars at my local dealership to pick up 5 o-rings and 5 crush washers for this job. So, I'm dragging my feet on replacing the washers. I did read, on a reply to parrot doom's post on the subject, that changing the washers had a great effect on the idle. Anyone got a lead on some reasonable washers?