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#16
08-28-2011, 10:29 PM
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Quote:
The idea is that if you secure the moment arm of the air cleaner, or make sure the top of the air cleaner has no room to wiggle then less stress is put upon the bracket and the rubber insulators.
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Onus probandi incumbit ei qui dicit, non ei qui negat I recondition w123/w126/w124/w140/r107/r129/ steering boxes! 1984 300D "Elsa" odo reset 6/2011 147k 1983 300TD "Mitzi" ~268k OM603 powered 1995 E300 "Adelheid" 262k [Sold] 
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#18
08-30-2011, 04:28 PM
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Umm
A local owner/customer got angry after three brackets in two years.
He fabricated a new bracket from 5/16 thick sheet steel. 
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#19
08-30-2011, 04:31 PM
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But did the rubber mounts last any longer?
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#20
08-30-2011, 04:34 PM
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Quote:
The air cleaner itself might crack next!
__________________
Cousin Dave 83' 300SD 250k+ and going strong! Take the best that exists, make it better! If it doesn't exist, create it! Accept nothing nearly right or good enough!
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#21
08-30-2011, 04:37 PM
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Answer
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Not until the rack damper was replaced/adjusted.
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#22
08-30-2011, 04:40 PM
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Quote:
__________________
Cousin Dave 83' 300SD 250k+ and going strong! Take the best that exists, make it better! If it doesn't exist, create it! Accept nothing nearly right or good enough!
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#23
08-30-2011, 04:41 PM
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Answer
Quote:
He replaced it with a great used one from the salvage yard $15.00.
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#24
08-30-2011, 04:48 PM
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Answer
Quote:
if it is the shiny new gold unit = it has been replaced and needs to be adjusted.. If it is nickle or rust/corroded = replace it = a good investment. so, what does that rack damper bolt (617) actually do? http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/183139-so-what-does-rack-damper-bolt-617-actually-do.html#post1458468 Part# rack dampener pin for 1985 300SD http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/120005-part-rack-damper-pin-1985-300sd.html#post858324 Adjusting the Rack Damper Bolt http://articles.mbz.org/engine/diesel/rackbolt/ Replacing Rack dampener pin http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/176580-replacing-rack-dampener-pin.html#post1391845 .
__________________
ASE Master Mechanic https://whunter.carrd.co/ Prototype R&D/testing: Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician. Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH). Dynamometer. Heat exchanger durability. HV-A/C Climate Control. Vehicle build. Fleet Durability Technical Quality Auditor. Automotive Technical Writer 1985 300SD 1983 300D 2003 Volvo V70 https://www.boldegoist.com/
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#25
08-30-2011, 04:55 PM
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Quote:
__________________
Cousin Dave 83' 300SD 250k+ and going strong! Take the best that exists, make it better! If it doesn't exist, create it! Accept nothing nearly right or good enough!
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#26
08-30-2011, 07:52 PM
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Quote:
__________________
My occupational hazard bein' my occupation's just not around... 1980 300SD 1980 300SD
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#27
08-30-2011, 09:41 PM
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I've lost two over the years....and as well for me it was an entire arm that broke off, forget of it was the part that ran rearward..or forward. But wasn't the welds for me either.
Keeping fingers crossed and knocking on wood, I haven't had another break in a long time. Its usually a failure of the rubber isolation mounts that let the air cleaner start hammering, and its that hammering that causes the eventual failure.
__________________
Proud owner of .... 1971 280SE W108 1979 300SD W116 1983 300D W123 1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper 1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel 1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified) --------------------- Section 609 MVAC Certified --------------------- "He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche
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#28
08-30-2011, 10:16 PM
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Quote:
__________________
Sam 84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle )
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#29
08-31-2011, 10:47 AM
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Quote:
Something else I found along the way of trying to reduce engine shake. The link that is running from the IP to the shutoff lever was just a fraction too tight. This caused my engine to be slightly shutting down when my foot was not on the accelerator which cause some pretty bad idle shakes(as if you where to just barely push on the shutoff lever but not all the way). I only found the problem because I had forgotten to reattach that link after doing some service. I had already started the engine and was very pleased with how smooth it was idling. I noticed the link and snapped it in place while it was running. Once attached, the engine suddenly started shuttering a little. I was disappointing that my service efforts where not the reason for the improvement, but I was very happy that I found that little easy adjustment. Sometimes bone-headedness leads me down the right path
__________________
Cousin Dave 83' 300SD 250k+ and going strong! Take the best that exists, make it better! If it doesn't exist, create it! Accept nothing nearly right or good enough!
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#30
08-31-2011, 08:24 PM
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:rant on
IMHO the whole thing is a p*** poor design. Take a something the mass of an air cleaner, mount it with rubber to poorly braced diving board, then put it on top (end) of an assembly that shakes a lot. With all the things on these cars that are over-engineered, why this exists is a mystery to me. I understand there is a way to go to a separate assembly off engine if an oil separator from a 240 is used, but I've never looked into it. :rant off
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