But did the rubber mounts last any longer?

NO.
Not until the rack damper was replaced/adjusted.

I've always wondered about that little rack damper bolt. I've adjusted on it a little bit via some info on this forum, but is there any definitive way of know it actually needs to be replaced? Or is it a $75 couldn't hurt?

__________________
Cousin Dave
83' 300SD 250k+ and going strong!

Take the best that exists, make it better!
If it doesn't exist, create it!
Accept nothing nearly right or good enough!

If you have excess engine rock/shake.

if it is the shiny new gold unit = it has been replaced and needs to be adjusted..

If it is nickle or rust/corroded = replace it = a good investment.

so, what does that rack damper bolt (617) actually do?
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/183139-so-what-does-rack-damper-bolt-617-actually-do-post1458468.html

Part# rack dampener pin for 1985 300SD
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/120005-part-rack-damper-pin-1985-300sd-post858324.html

Adjusting the Rack Damper Bolt
http://articles.mbz.org/engine/diesel/rackbolt/

Replacing Rack dampener pin
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/176580-replacing-rack-dampener-pin-post1391845.html




.

__________________
ASE Master Mechanic
https://whunter.carrd.co/

Prototype R&D/testing:
Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician.
Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH).
Dynamometer.
Heat exchanger durability.
HV-A/C Climate Control.
Vehicle build.
Fleet Durability
Technical Quality Auditor.
Automotive Technical Writer

1985 300SD
1983 300D
2003 Volvo V70

https://www.boldegoist.com/

The air cleaner itself might crack next!

__________________
Cousin Dave
83' 300SD 250k+ and going strong!

Take the best that exists, make it better!
If it doesn't exist, create it!
Accept nothing nearly right or good enough!

Yes, the rusty/nasty air cleaner housing broke within three days.
He replaced it with a great used one from the salvage yard $15.00.

I've lost two over the years....and as well for me it was an entire arm that broke off, forget of it was the part that ran rearward..or forward. But wasn't the welds for me either.

Keeping fingers crossed and knocking on wood, I haven't had another break in a long time.

Its usually a failure of the rubber isolation mounts that let the air cleaner start hammering, and its that hammering that causes the eventual failure.

__________________
Proud owner of ....
1971 280SE W108
1979 300SD W116
1983 300D W123
1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper
1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel
1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified)
---------------------
Section 609 MVAC Certified
---------------------
"He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche

Ditto, The rubber isolation mounts gave me trouble until I replaced the missing shields under the air cleaner. That and a fine tuned valve adjustment to reduce most of the shaking, did wonders.

__________________
Sam

84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle )

I just replaced the head gasket on mine. Since the head was off I had a valve job done. I was very critical when adjusting the valves to be sure that were set just right since the seat are fresh. Will probably need to do another adjustment in 500-600 miles after the valve break in more. But WOW she's a smooth running engine now. Won't be breaking any mounts any time soon.

Something else I found along the way of trying to reduce engine shake. The link that is running from the IP to the shutoff lever was just a fraction too tight. This caused my engine to be slightly shutting down when my foot was not on the accelerator which cause some pretty bad idle shakes(as if you where to just barely push on the shutoff lever but not all the way). I only found the problem because I had forgotten to reattach that link after doing some service. I had already started the engine and was very pleased with how smooth it was idling. I noticed the link and snapped it in place while it was running. Once attached, the engine suddenly started shuttering a little. I was disappointing that my service efforts where not the reason for the improvement, but I was very happy that I found that little easy adjustment. Sometimes bone-headedness leads me down the right path

__________________
Cousin Dave
83' 300SD 250k+ and going strong!

Take the best that exists, make it better!
If it doesn't exist, create it!
Accept nothing nearly right or good enough!

:rant on
IMHO the whole thing is a p*** poor design. Take a something the mass of an air cleaner, mount it with rubber to poorly braced diving board, then put it on top (end) of an assembly that shakes a lot. With all the things on these cars that are over-engineered, why this exists is a mystery to me. I understand there is a way to go to a separate assembly off engine if an oil separator from a 240 is used, but I've never looked into it.
:rant off

If you check and replace the isolators if any break at each oil change....you will have few problems. Only takes a moment to check. They are there because that engine shakes like hell. Let your motor mounts collapse and let one of the engine shocks pull out and wedge and see the dust come from the cracks in your dash as your gauges vibrate so violently they blur. Yeah....I had that happen to me the year I got it.

__________________
Proud owner of ....
1971 280SE W108
1979 300SD W116
1983 300D W123
1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper
1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel
1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified)
---------------------
Section 609 MVAC Certified
---------------------
"He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche

I feel you JerryBro. I spent much time cursing the design.

Off engine air cleaner would have to have some sort of ducting going to the turbo. And since the two would move independently of each other, your air cleaner will no longer need repairs, but the ducting would. As a conversion, you can do the K&N filter on the end of the turbo and eliminate the air cleaner entirely, and install an independent oil separator as you mentioned. You will hear the whiz of the turbo when accelerating which is kinda fun, but you also get an overall increase of sound from the intake that can be heard in the cabin while cruising down the road(not so fun).

In the end, it's kind of a pick-your-poison situation.

__________________
Cousin Dave
83' 300SD 250k+ and going strong!

Take the best that exists, make it better!
If it doesn't exist, create it!
Accept nothing nearly right or good enough!