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  #1  
Old 09-02-2011, 12:40 PM
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300TD uneven rear tire wear - LCA bushings? Subframe bushings?

I have very rapid wear on the inner edges of both rear tires on my '81 300TD. My alignment shop found excessive toe-out on the right rear but said it was non-adjustable and "as good as it gets." Could this be bad LCA or subframe bushings? Or is something bent? The car actually tracks pretty straight although it does have a strong tendency to want to drift away from the high side of crowned roads.

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  #2  
Old 09-02-2011, 12:44 PM
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non adjustable? I thought 4 wheel alignment was standard on these cars... anyway, the diff mount is likely shot letting the subframe sag.
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  #3  
Old 09-02-2011, 12:51 PM
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Very interesting, I didn't realize the diff mount helped hold up the subframe, but now that I've looked at some pictures I can see it. I can swap it with everything in place, right? Just support the diff with a jack?

I think what I've heard is that on the W123 the rear is nominally non-adjustable, but there are aftermarket offset bolt kits to adjust it.

It's also possible I misinterpreted and they meant that it was outside the adjustment range.
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Old 09-02-2011, 12:55 PM
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yeah, it's only a few bolts to remove it.
I usually support the diff, drop the mount, and remove the rear cover and change the diff fluid while I'm at it.
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!
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  #5  
Old 09-02-2011, 12:58 PM
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yeah. I'd support the body on jack stands (more room to work)..use a floor jack under the differential, you'll use it to line holes up anyway. Its the same procedure on the W123 as my W116, and I have replaced the one on the W116.

You MIGHT have LCA bushings worn out....but try the diff mount first.

If you bent something odds are it would have been only one side that had the issue.
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Old 09-02-2011, 01:00 PM
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heh, good point... kinda hard to lower the mount without supporting the vehicle...
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!
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  #7  
Old 09-02-2011, 01:03 PM
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If he got a good look at what a good one looks like......a bad one is visibly obvious if its affecting alignment.
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  #8  
Old 09-02-2011, 02:22 PM
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Maybe I'll take a look this weekend. I should probably change it anyway, though. Even if it isn't affecting the alignment it's probably hardened and transmitting more drivetrain noise to the cabin than it should. My experience with rubber drivetrain mounts on cars this age is even the ones that look good are usually bad.
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  #9  
Old 09-02-2011, 03:15 PM
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The trailing arms are not adjustable out of the box so to speak - however you can buy bushes with eccentric holes in them (here on fastlane too).

But I'd follow the advice and inspect the rubber and if you think it necessary change the rubber before you get all involved in complicated eccentric bushing calculations.

One thing that might be of interest is that the washer bolts that hold the axles into the trailing arms are mean to be a fit only once item.

When I was messing about with my alignment I found that you could change the camber on the rear by as much as a degree by loosening and tightening these washer bolts...

(Sorry washer bolts isn't probably the official term - it is Friday - I'm knackered...)

These washer bolts probably won't be all of the problem but they might contribute at bit to the problem.
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  #10  
Old 09-02-2011, 11:45 PM
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I should do the diff mount on my 240D. I had no idea that the mount was that crucial to the rear subframe geometry. My rear tires wear on the inside as well. New shocks did not help.
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  #11  
Old 09-03-2011, 12:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vstech View Post
non adjustable? I thought 4 wheel alignment was standard on these cars... anyway, the diff mount is likely shot letting the subframe sag.
A out of spec Differential Mount Changes the Rear Tow In/Out? See Pic.

What are the symptoms when the Trailing Arm Bushing go bad?
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300TD uneven rear tire wear - LCA bushings? Subframe bushings?-z-diff-mount.jpg  
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  #12  
Old 09-03-2011, 04:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diesel911 View Post
A out of spec Differential Mount Changes the Rear Tow In/Out? See Pic.

What are the symptoms when the Trailing Arm Bushing go bad?
I guess that would be a contribution to a saggy bottom... the trailing arms are meant to be set at a particular angle to the subframe (and chassis). If this angle changes over time due to a gradual weakening of the rubber (torsional moment - twisting) then that position will be changed. (If anyone needs this specification I'll dig it out the FSM for you)

If the rubber on the trailing arm bushings is cracked I'd replace them. However, the thickness of the rubber on these bushings isn't that great. So I guess they have less of an effect on the feel of the rear end when worn. There is more rubber and flexibility in the subframe bushings (as I'm sure you know). If these big bits of rubber along with the differential mounting get tired I imagine they would have a greater influence on the feel of the rear end. However, if we're talking about ride height all of the rubber parts on the rear suspension appear to place a role - that sounds obvious doesn't it?
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #13  
Old 09-06-2011, 02:12 PM
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Got a peek at the diff mount yesterday and it looks pretty hashed, so I think I'm going to start there. Hopefully the bolts won't fight me too hard.
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  #14  
Old 03-26-2012, 01:39 AM
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Thought I'd follow up to note that I finally got around to changing the diff mount today (as part of an axle shaft replacement) and not only was the rubber pretty well shot, the whole mount was bent to the left. I don't know how that happened -- maybe someone tried to jack the car by it. Won't know if it helped the tire wear until I get a ways down the road.
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  #15  
Old 03-26-2012, 02:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Orv View Post
Thought I'd follow up to note that I finally got around to changing the diff mount today (as part of an axle shaft replacement) and not only was the rubber pretty well shot, the whole mount was bent to the left. I don't know how that happened -- maybe someone tried to jack the car by it. Won't know if it helped the tire wear until I get a ways down the road.
Any chance of a photo of that damaged mount Orv?

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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