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  #1  
Old 09-11-2011, 06:33 AM
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Should Throttle LInkage Be Cleaned from Time to Time?

I know that the throttle linkage needs to be regularly and liberally lubricated. Should it also be cleaned periodically? If so, how? I notice black gunk here and there.

Thanks.

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  #2  
Old 09-11-2011, 09:30 AM
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To clean the linkages ping them off each other and clean out with brake cleaner or such like - even WD40 for cleaning... but use something more substantial for lubrication => light machine oil.

As for how frequently I think it is mentioned in the FSM I'll see if I can dig it out for you.
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Old 09-11-2011, 10:59 AM
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would graphite work without attracting dust??
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  #4  
Old 09-11-2011, 12:30 PM
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Wash Your Balls

Pull the linkages off and wash your balls and cups with some brake clean, pan of gas etc.... wipe them clean, lube them, and snap them back on.

The FSM states to use ATF. I use some synthetic grease I have.

Charlie
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works
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  #5  
Old 09-11-2011, 12:31 PM
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ATF is a good lubricant.

Sixto
87 300D
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  #6  
Old 09-11-2011, 12:46 PM
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ATF is a good cleaner too. It also seems to work great on the automatic antenna.

-J
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  #7  
Old 09-11-2011, 02:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shertex View Post
I know that the throttle linkage needs to be regularly and liberally lubricated. Should it also be cleaned periodically? If so, how? I notice black gunk here and there.

Thanks.
Anytime you lube them I'd clean them as well. No sense in lubing a dirty ball and socket. The dirt and grit are what wear out the ball and sockets. So if you just stuff more lube into a dirty socket you haven't really helped a whole lot.
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Old 09-11-2011, 06:39 PM
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Every time you change Oil and Filter

I'm with BD300TD on this.

Clean and Lube EVERY part of linkage (A.K.A. "Ball and Socket Joints";Etc.)
at each Lubrication Service.
This is a Safety Issue.A stuck or Balky Linkage MAY NOT Kill you,BUT it CAN!

If you're into the Computer Controlled Lube Cycle, Ignore it for the Purposes of
Linkage Service. The Linkage Cycle Should be EVERY 3,000 Miles. More often
if operating in dusty conditions or if you've removed the unter-Engine Panels.

Diesel Owners That "Doggie Bone" on the Engine side of the I.P. SHOULD not be
Passed Over!
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Old 09-11-2011, 06:48 PM
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Linkage Lube

Charmalu,

I'm going to try out a Synthetic grease that's not affected by heat or cold
(Neither Runs nor Thickens) and was developed for Salt Water Reel Mechanisms.
If, in a Couple of Test Cycles, It doesn't pick up Grit it may be a Winner.
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  #10  
Old 09-11-2011, 07:23 PM
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I did mine only last weekend as I had a sticky accelerator where the return spring was insufficient to pull the linkage back to full idle. Turned out to be the last ball and cup linkage (about 3inches long) that attaches to the cruise control.

All my ball and cup sockets were dry as a bone. After cleaning with brake cleaner I applied some ATF and accelerator is easier to use.

Consequently, I've had to remove the link that goes to the cruise control as it is beyond cleaning/lube. The cup is plastic of some kind and has begun to break down turning almost tacky. It sticks like it has arthritis.

I'm not sure if this was a lack of lube over the years but I do know I'm up for a new link from the dealer.
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  #11  
Old 09-12-2011, 04:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amosfella View Post
would graphite work without attracting dust??
My understanding is that in really dry desert conditions graphite in powder form is considered to be less destructive than sand mixed in with oil / grease or whatever. Graphite, however, is more abrasive than a lubricant.

In this link they say it is a poor lubricant

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Graphite#Other_properties
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #12  
Old 09-12-2011, 11:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by compress ignite View Post
Charmalu,

I'm going to try out a Synthetic grease that's not affected by heat or cold
(Neither Runs nor Thickens) and was developed for Salt Water Reel Mechanisms.
If, in a Couple of Test Cycles, It doesn't pick up Grit it may be a Winner.
Any grease will catch any dirt/dust flying around the engine compartment.
I wipe out the socket, wipe off the ball. then using an acid brush, I goop the grease in the cup and a little on the ball and snap them on. some will push out and it sort of seals it some what.

This works for me, there is no perfect solution for it, it is just part of the maintenance we have to do. Any lube is better than no lube.

What I have seen at PNP, it looks like the majority of these old MB`s never get lubed. I have tried to pull off some of the linkages, and they are so rusty, they will not pop off and the linkage bends getting them off. there is also a spring clip inside the socket that has broken and fallen out when I get some of them off. this probably helps hold them together.

Charlie

__________________
there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works
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