Had to remove the turbo to access a striped nut behind it when changing out some of the parts. But it was turbo. Garett. The issue i see here is not house housing itself, but the diffent vacuum connectors and sensor connections on the sd engine verses the original d engine.

I see.

Mostly, all AFAIK, vac connectors (top of cam cover) are the same for a 123 and 126, pre '85. And are egr related.

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83 SD

84 CD

I went ahead and swapped over the thermostat housing, and the entire linkage assembly from the 85's valve cover over. The 84 SD thermo housing was also missing the bracket to mount the AC line to. Today I'm going out and installing the new starter, get he AC pump reinstalled (I was able to get the engine out and reinstalled without draining the system) It was working fine before all this so I didn't want to mess with it.

DAMN those engine shock mounts and shocks are expensive... it like 300 bucks for the pair... Just that mount is like 130 buck each by itself.... sticker shock there... Wish I had a couple spares laying around. Hopefully I'll get to test fire the engine for the first time today. I keep getting side tracked with other things and only get to put an hour or 2 in at a time.

Got the starter, ac, power steering, fan, radiators, oil cooler, etc in today. Basically, everything. It's all rewired but of course ran into a couple issues.

The main vacuum line from the pump to the booster is broken. So I'll need that before I can test start it.

Had to do coupe things twice... Like remove the fan to get the shroud on.

Ice Cube - It Was A Good Day (HD) - YouTube

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My occupational hazard bein'
my occupation's just not around...
1980 300SD
1980 300SD

Would have been a great day had that line from the vac pump to the boost not broken, I was just about to start it!

While i figure out what exactly I need and wait for the parts I'll continue on with some other thing tomorrow.

Still, sounds like you got a good bit done.

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My occupational hazard bein'
my occupation's just not around...
1980 300SD
1980 300SD

Yeah come on! The glass is half full!

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

ran into another question, on the 85 engine, there is a sensor thats in the bell housing on the drivers side. a speed sensor? anyways the 84 SD block does not have the hole to mount it into... SO what do I do with it?

that sensor is what drives the tach. It sends a signal to the black box behind the passenger side kick panel.

The engine you removed is out of your 85 300D, and the engine you are installing is from a SD of some other year? why not just swap in the 85 adaptor plate, it has the flat spot and hole where this sensor bolts to.


Charlie

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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

Ya, I could have done that I guess... but didn't notice it. So, now that the engine etc is already in the car, can I just bypass it? Or?

I did tell you about it in my earlier post.

Restoration of my 85 300D


If you want A/C and EGR functions, you'll need it. The RPM sensor is important in the operation of both.


.

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1983 123.133 California
- GreaseCar Veg System

I should be able to bypass the Kilma as far as the AC goes, and I always remove the EGR from my cars anyways so a non-issue there.

A member was good enough to link me to instructions for putting in an older 2 prong tach, so I'll have to locate one with a few other parts to make it work, but should be doable and a lot easier than correcting the mistake at this point.

I read though those posts many times, I didn't know the name of the part..."intermediate plate if it does not have the RPM sensor mount (which looks like it doesn't) while the engines are out." I thought that was the plate on the front of the engine with the sensor. Which also needed to be swapped. But it's been a good learning experience none the less and will be fun to drive it one it's done.

Oh, I couldn't wait...

I grabbed a few of the needed parts from my CD and test fired the car!

Amazingly it started on the first crank! (I primed the crap out of it first)

Idle is really low, car would not stay running unless I kept my foot in the peddle, Of course without the engine shocks it's shaking quite a bit. But at least I know it will run...

Here's video of the first try

300D Running - YouTube

Got the new rear quarter glass in the door. Not a bad job. Various seals etc need to be replaced, but I'll do all them after I repaint the car and repainting will happen once it get the engine all sorted out and the shock mounts etc in.

Today I got the car to run (idle). I went threw the steps to retime the IP. Where it was was at 21. So I advanced it a hair, about 1/8 an inch and she idles good now. I still don't think it perfect, but it's good enough to work on some other stuff for now.

Got the car down and took it for a drive, it FAST. I mean smoke my 2 door fast... Lockdown worked, trans shifted good, might need a tiny adjustment here or ther, but for just tossing everything in it's really close.

Car need shocks etc, but tracks straight. The return to the overflow tanks plastic nossel on the radiator was cracked, so I jb welded it and am waiting for it to setup before putting the hose back on.

Did a once over cleaning job just to make it nicer to work on and filled her with a full tank to get it ready to drive. I also bypassed the kilma, but have not had a chance to see if the ac is working. As to the cruise, I'll look into installing an aftermarket unit. I'm going to retro the tac to an older 2 prong setup and remove all the unnessisary emission control crap.

Looks like paint is next on the list.