hello all I joined this wonderful website of knowledge after recommendation from a member here. dont know his username. but he drive w140 S420
car has 240,000 km on it or 149,000 miles 1992 w140 300SD 4speed automatic.
here are my problems.
1. pedal to the floor and picking up speed is slow.
2. I see oil leak from blowoff valve/turbo wastegate?
3. I see oil built up on fuel injector area?
4. see alot of smoke when engine starts every time cold hot after hrs of driving
5. people behind me stay far away from me on highway.
6. 1st to 2nd gear change is karate kick in head, but when driven gently it dont happen, 3rd on highway if I fall below 100km/h or 62mph let goes gear and I have to put into 2nd and hope it grabs usually grabs and shifts to 3rd fine. but there is no 4th happening I think. Because I am going 120km/h or 75mph with 3500rpm on diesel engine. should be cruising around 2000rpm ish when 4th kicks in? or is it normal?
7. car pulls to passenger side or to front right.
8. when shutting off the engine the whole car shakes for 1 second.
9. soft close or auto suck in dont work. sometimes one of em works.
10. when trunk handle goes in it make some sound.
11. there is gap between headlight and hood more than it suppose to be.
12. fender on driver side and hood gap is more than the passenger side fender and hood gap.
13. more gap between top of rear bumper and the lower tail light covers.
14. consumes or burns engine oil.
15. engine hood on driver side area is not closed solidly when pushed with hand it goes down and up. but passenger side is solid.

please enlighten me!

1) Something isn't right and the ECU is holding back boost. I strongly suggest this modification - Wastegate actuator swap for OM602.962 - revisited unless you enjoy investigating pre-OBD II ECUs.

2) Picture will help.

3) If it's fuel, it's either worn fuel return lines or over tightened injector lines. If it's engine oil, it might be dripping from the intake manifold crossover pipe.

4) Hopefully just a bad head gasket.

5) I don't blame them

6) 1-2 shift = VCV or modulator needs adjustment or replacement. Loss of traction = what is the condition of transmission fluid? When was the last fluid and filter change? Highway rpm = cruising at 2000 rpm? This is your first MB Diesel, right? I forget the gearing but 2000 rpm will probably get you 80km/h tops.

7) Check tire pressure, condition of steering linkage, condition of front suspension, condition of rear suspension.

8) Check engine mounts.

9) Remove fuse 8 or 9 from the panel above the battery and refit after a minute. If closing assist works, you have a leak in the system. Otherwise - http://w140repair.com/Closing_Assist_Pump.htm

10) Probably a leaky vacuum actuator. At least it works

11) Probably was in an accident and not properly repaired.

12) Probably was in an accident and not properly repaired.

13) Probably was in an accident and not properly repaired.

14) This is your biggest concern. Again, hopefully just a bad head gasket. Unfortunately, these engines have a high incidence of bending connecting rods which leads to oil consumption. Ironically, I believe it's oil leaking into the cylinders that causes the rods to bend. Fix all the external oil leaks and make sure the turbo isn't blowing oil to get a better sense of oil consumption. If it's more than a quart/litre every 1600km, it's time to pull the cylinder head. You will likely find a breach allowing oil into the #1 cylinder. That's a good amount of your consumption right there. Measure piston protrusion above the block deck front and back for all pistons. The spec is something like 0.7-0.8mm and should be even front and back. If there's a difference such as the front isn't as proud as the back, the connecting rod is bent. If the body was well cared for, which doesn't seem likely, you can buy a properly built block for ~$7500. Given the overall condition you imply, it makes more sense to install a good used 3.0 block. If the car is white with gray upholstery and without rust, you can sell it to me cheap

[edit] If you do the work yourself, invest in a new head gasket first and see if that reduces smoke and consumption to tolerable levels. A shop will charge about $2000 for that job which is close to the cost of fitting a 3.0 block.

15) Hopefully just needs an adjustment.

Sixto
87 300D

thank you sixto. I will post pics when I have chance. I cannot sell this beauty no way! lol
and for head overhaul kit where can I get em? I dont wanna go to stealership and pay my hard earned money. transmission fluid condition I didnt check yet and I dont know when it was changed. coolant is yellow color for mercedes right? should I see a bit of clear film of oil in that or no?

FastLane (they sponsor this site) ships to Canada - http://catalog.peachparts.com/content.wws?fname=intlshipping.html

MB label coolant and Zerex G-05 equivalent as sold in the US is yellow, not green. There shouldn't be any oil in the coolant whatsoever. What you see might be a current leak or residue from a previous leak. When you service the cooling system, include a deoiling flush with dishwasher soap and a descaling flush with citric acid.

Sixto
87 300D

how can I tell if the turbo is even spooling? and I got exhaust leak for sure I can smell exhaust fume. I think maybe turbo manifold? or gasket. I am prepare to take the head out to see whats going on and turbo and manifold as well. what tools do I need? and what do I have to watch out for?