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  #1  
Old 09-17-2011, 08:27 PM
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Wastegate actuator swap for OM602.962 - revisited

This Thread Originally authored by gsxr... I am posting here as a new thread to make it easier to find the pertinent information that has been assembled in the old circa 2008 thread... without further ado ... this is what I had posted in that thread... > NOTE > Links are now working

In the spirit of helpfulness... and organization I am including here a summary listing providing the key references to the conversion... I hope this is of help.

Here is the part number and location to purchase the replacement actuator

part number 433489-12

http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=TP&Product_Code=433489-12&Category_Code=

# please note that the rod length will have to be shortened

as a reference this thread :
A : ( post number 133 ) explains the rod length customisation
B: I would highly recommend perusing the entire thread of which the page 9 URL is listed here :
Wastegate actuator swap for OM602.962?

and

for detailed pictures of the parts involved : ( wastegate13.jpg ) for actuator image )
http://www.w124performance.com/images/OM602_intake/


also,

in this same thread : page 10

Wastegate actuator swap for OM602.962?

it is outlined that for the manifold port fitting one should purchase this :

http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=TP&Product_Code=ATP-FTG-040&Category_Code=

! please note that this fitting is a NPT thread and will certainly work for the self tapped hole on the turbo housing that GSXR implemented but I have yet to confirm that the OE manifold threads used by : VegStew in post # 117... here :
Wastegate actuator swap for OM602.962?

are in fact a match for the 1/8" NPT thread. I will write again when I have confirmed this.

UPDATE > as referenced in the original thread... the factory manifold threads are in fact 1/8 NPT and and will mate exactly to the fitting as linked above

Thank you

1991 W124 300D
1992 W124 300D


Last edited by Chris_; 09-17-2011 at 09:55 PM.
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  #2  
Old 09-17-2011, 08:55 PM
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Maybe it's just me but I can't get your peachparts or atpturbo links to work. I think you cut and paste the truncated URLs (with ...) from the thread rather than the entire URL.

Sixto
87 300D
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  #3  
Old 09-17-2011, 09:20 PM
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Hey I'll say all the info that gsxr posted was great. I recently bought the actuator for $100 and shorted rod (had to add some more threads to rod) and installed; drilled and taped the cross-over pipe just downstream of turbo: installed 90 degree fitting; small hose connected and a world of difference!
Great info!
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Old 09-17-2011, 09:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sixto View Post
Maybe it's just me but I can't get your peachparts or atpturbo links to work. I think you cut and paste the truncated URLs (with ...) from the thread rather than the entire URL.

Sixto
87 300D
You are right sorry about the links - ill look into it and fix it
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Old 09-17-2011, 09:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sixto View Post
Maybe it's just me but I can't get your peachparts or atpturbo links to work. I think you cut and paste the truncated URLs (with ...) from the thread rather than the entire URL.

Sixto
87 300D
Links have been fixed ... now maybe this can be of some help to someone

best to all

Chris
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  #6  
Old 09-17-2011, 10:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ridgerunner View Post
Hey I'll say all the info that gsxr posted was great. I recently bought the actuator for $100 and shorted rod (had to add some more threads to rod) and installed; drilled and taped the cross-over pipe just downstream of turbo: installed 90 degree fitting; small hose connected and a world of difference!
Great info!
Another solution to the rod length issue is to place several washers between the actuator housing and the mounting bracket thereby effectively shortening the rod... I did this after cutting the rod and discovering the need to cut threads and was concerned about the internal integrity of the wastegate if I should in the process turn the shaft too much ... so I erred on the side of caution and shimmed the housing instead

Chris
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Old 09-04-2012, 09:33 AM
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Instead of using washers I used the nuts off my old actuator. Photos are in this posting.
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Old 09-04-2012, 10:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 300D-91 View Post
Instead of using washers I used the nuts off my old actuator. Photos are in this posting.
Good Idea and less easy to drop a nut then several washers.. I hope the mod was up to your expectations

Chris
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  #9  
Old 09-04-2012, 10:45 AM
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Thumbs up

The mod was easy to perform and is a very simple yet elegant alternative to the (21 year old) MB design.
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Old 09-04-2012, 11:16 AM
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Chris, are the threads on that fitting from ATP definitely a perfect fit? I wondered since specs are not metric. Hope to place just one order from ATP for both cars. Thanks.
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14 E250 Bluetec "Sinclair", Palladium Silver on Black, 153k miles
06 E320 CDI "Rutherford", Black on Tan, 171k mi, Stage 1 tune, tuned TCU
91 300D "Otis", Smoke Silver, 142k mi, wastegate conversion

19 Honda CR-V EX 61k mi
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Old 09-04-2012, 01:09 PM
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Also, any particular reason you decided to run the pressure line off that blocking plate? Just curious.
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14 E250 Bluetec "Sinclair", Palladium Silver on Black, 153k miles
06 E320 CDI "Rutherford", Black on Tan, 171k mi, Stage 1 tune, tuned TCU
91 300D "Otis", Smoke Silver, 142k mi, wastegate conversion

19 Honda CR-V EX 61k mi
Fourteen other MB's owned and sold
1961 Very Tolerant Wife
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  #12  
Old 09-04-2012, 09:11 PM
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Shertex I felt it was the cleanist solution. With all my repairs and mods I aim to be clean and simple.
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  #13  
Old 12-16-2012, 08:41 PM
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flapper valve

These threads are unclear as to what, if anything needs to be done with the part that has been referred to as a "flapper valve." Some people say you need to wire it open, others say just pull off the vacuum lines and all is well.
Can anyone enlighten me as to what this valve does and what to do with it when I put my new wastegate on.
Thanks.

BTW, the threads from the 1/8NPT fitting are NOT an exact fit for the manifold. I think you can crank it in, but twisting it by hand, after 2-3 revolutions, it begins to bind. I plan to run a tap through the hole when I'm 100% ready to do the mod. The thread spacing matches perfectly, so I think the problem is that the hole is a metric size that is a tiny tiny bit smaller than the closest standard size.
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Old 12-17-2012, 12:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dvalente View Post
These threads are unclear as to what, if anything needs to be done with the part that has been referred to as a "flapper valve." Some people say you need to wire it open, others say just pull off the vacuum lines and all is well.
Can anyone enlighten me as to what this valve does and what to do with it when I put my new wastegate on.
Thanks.

BTW, the threads from the 1/8NPT fitting are NOT an exact fit for the manifold. I think you can crank it in, but twisting it by hand, after 2-3 revolutions, it begins to bind. I plan to run a tap through the hole when I'm 100% ready to do the mod. The thread spacing matches perfectly, so I think the problem is that the hole is a metric size that is a tiny tiny bit smaller than the closest standard size.
Hi,

The flapper valve can be allowed to rest with vacuum lines disconected as the spring pressure of the vacuum diaphram will hold it in the rest ( open position ) .

The tapping on the intake manifold for the 92 W124 that I did the mod on..accepted the threads of the 1/8NPT fitting and seemed to seal well.
I am always learning and I may have overlooked something in this regard... one thing to remember that may be helpful is that on a taper thread it will naturally get tight at arround two revolutuions of engagement as you are sealing on the taper of the threads.

Out of curiosity did you find a source for the ATP torbo actuator listed in this thread as I had seen discussion that since I have done the mod the actuater has become unavailable ?

all the best
Happy Hollidays to you and yours
Chris
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  #15  
Old 12-22-2012, 12:11 PM
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Ok, good to know about the threads. I was just worried I'd get something stuck or stripped and wasn't wanting to deal with that. I'll just crank it in when the time comes then.
As for the part, ATP turbo has it in stock again. Or so I believe. I had ordered it months ago right before it went out of stock, and mine wasn't shipped until around 3 or 4 weeks back when they emailed to ask if I still wanted it because they had some in.
Since we're consolidating some useful information here, I'd like to comment on a couple other things.
For some reason nobody on the thread has suggested using one of the vacuum line mating fittings between the wastegate actuator and the nipple on the manifold fitting. Since they are different sizes, I plan to just pull off one of the vacuum fittings that I will no longer need, there's at least 2 or 3 that join dissimilar size tube, use a pair of hose clamps since they are smooth, and put in a short section of smaller diameter hose right before the wastegate actuator, that way all the lines connect to an appropriate size fitting.
I would also like to comment that I have seen concerns about pressure differences and actuator delays when using a long tube. The losses should be negligible since there is almost no flow through the tubing, and the pressure waves move at the speed of sound which is around 340m/s. So even if you use a meter of tubing, it's only 1/340 of a second delay, and it's not like the pressure in your manifold will instantly spike from 0 to 20psi, this will happen relatively gradually.

Hope this info helps everyone.

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