Is the swap as simple as putting the new pressure actuator, Tapping the nipple in with the hose, replacing the mixer where the EGR and flapper are with a piece of intercooler hose and then capping off the vacuum line somewhere? I would also have to plug the little hole at the bottom of the EGR hose to the engine, right? If it's that simple I'm really excited that I won't be recycling a bunch of crap through my engine and won't have to worry about vacuum lines and brittle, plastic 23-year-old components!!! Seems that I can do this whole thing for about 100 bucks compared to $600 to replace my faulty EGR and rats nest of faulty vacuum solenoids!!! Please let me know if this is correct for my Christmas present from you.

It's even easier. No need to replace the mixer with intercooler hose, the mixer and flapper valve can remain in place. Just install the wastegate, plumb it to a pressure source, and verify that you are seeing 12-14psi boost (peak) under load at full throttle.

You also do not have to remove the EGR valve unless it is leaking, this is an optional step after the wastegate conversion. Just disconnect / plug the hoses. Detailed instructions and photos are in the other threads.

Does the mixing pipe flap have to be tied open?

Sixto
MB-less

I had assumed not... But that's a good question.

__________________
14 E250 Bluetec 4Matic "Sinclair", Palladium Silver on Black, 157k miles
06 E320 CDI "Rutherford", Black on Tan, 175k mi, Stage 1 tune, tuned TCU
91 300D "Otis", Smoke Silver on Tan, 144k mi, wastegate conversion, ALDA delete

19 Honda CR-V EX 70k mi
Fourteen other MB's owned and sold
1961 Very Tolerant Wife

No, it defaults to open, similar to how the EGR defaults to closed.

The EGR block off - you can use something as simple as flashing tin which can be had at the building supply house usually comes in a roll but probably can be purchased in small amounts. Just do it where the EGR mounts to the intake the lines coming off the EGR valve just leave it all connected and just sandwich the tin plate you make between the egr valve and the intake.

The boost signal just T into the existing port on the intake... contrary to the more fastideous ... boost signal is boost signal... it will work fine and you dont need to purchase the fitting as the threads in the intake are actually a metric machine thread and not a taper NPT thread... I have done two of these and this can be taken as gospel

and yes shimming the actuator back is in fact the preferred method.. be sure to have it just to where the actuator is aplying the barest tension against the wastegate arm in the closed position ... ( to ensure fully closed but not to highten the preload unnecesarily )

Happy Hollidays to all

I wouldn't tap a boost signal into the ALDA or MAP line off the manifold. A boost leak downstream could cause an overboost situation. There's an extra threaded port or two in the manifold by the ALDA into which you can thread a barbed or banjo fitting such as one you can pull off a discarded ALDA.

An alternate gospel is to add a fitting to the EGR blocking plate at the mixing pipe for a wastegate boost signal. Use a good blob of Loktite on the barb nut or have a welder zap the nut to the blocking plate.

Sixto
MB-less

Okay I have a lot of different people telling me different things. I want to know where the best place is to put the boost signal. I'm gonna keep the EGR on the car has a dummy just in case I'm driving through a emissions state.
-can this job be done without removing the turbo? If I do have to remove the turbo what's the steps in doing this. Anytime I touch exhaust bolts or old plastic it's breaks like peanut brittle.
MAN YOU GUYS ARE GREAT! I really appreciate all the advice!

I know this is probably on a thread somewhere, but can someone show me a picture of where to tee off the vacuum lines on the right side of engine. And let me get this right… I can just delete all the actuators and vacuum lines by the airbox… Right?

If you're keeping the EGR valve (why if you're removing the actuators?) add a boost signal port on the far end of the intake manifold. Using this picture as a reference -



- to the 4 o'clock of the circled 2 is the overboost switch (90-91 2.5 only). To the 5 o'clock is a plug. Find a fitting such as the boost signal fitting to/on the ALDA and thread it into the port revealed by removing the plug. Run a line from the new fitting to the boost actuator.

I'd be very careful drilling and tapping the turbo compressor outlet if there's any risk of shavings falling into the compressor wheel. Even if you're keeping the EGR valve (again, why?), see if you can add a fitting to the mixing pipe which can be removed and properly cleaned after drilling and tapping. I've yet to see the big green o-rings in the mixing pipe be in such poor condition that they couldn't be reused.

Sixto
MB-less

You don't need a diagram. Find the multi-branch fitting above the engine vacuum pump. Cap the branches that go towards the right side of the car. No need to cap the lines that attach to the multi-branch fitting. Better still, get a fitting with fewer branches.

Sixto
MB-less

Chris, are you talking about the nipple by the electronic boost sensor on the driver side of the intake? Also can I remove the electronic boost Sensor, Or do I need to keep that on the intake. I was wondering if anybody has pictures of all the vacuums I can delete from alda on. I don't really understand how all this works.
Thanks!

Thanks sixto,
Is any electronics like the boost sensor or the little vacuum relay box with The electrical plug, that connects to the intake nipple by the electric boost Sensor going to interfere with the engine computer. What about the blue saucer also. I just want to make sure I'm doing everything right where it won't interfere with the engine computer. Sorry if these are dumb questions.

Thanks Sixto, but there is a little vacuum nipple right by the electronic boost and that plug you're talking about that I can't see in your picture. I'm gonna put a piece of sheet metal inbetween the EGR and mixer, because I can't figure out a cap for the bottom of the EGR tube to the engine, otherwise I would just put a block off plate at the EGR and tap in the bloost signal there. I have a question though… When I put that piece of sheet metal inbetween the EGR and mixer do I need to put a gasket on both sides of the sheet metal. I'm thinking that hose below the EGR will leak if there's some kind of exhaust pressure coming from the bottom of the engine.I really don't know how it all works so sorry if I sound like a dummy.

First off, what car do you have? Sounds like you have a 90-91 300D 2.5. First thing, there's no substitute to knowing what you're doing so do yourself the favor of reading through this thread - Wastegate actuator swap for OM602.962? - as many times as it takes. As for a vacuum diagram, this one's hard to read but should apply to your car -



There's a bigger version of the diagram in this post but it's marked up -

Wastegate actuator swap for OM602.962?

The electronics (EDS) won't care that you swapped in a pressure wastegate actuator so you don't need the MAP sensor (item B5/1) or the line leading to it. You need the line from the manifold to the ALDA (item 103) that goes through the overboost valve (item Y30). If you keep the BFS (item 123), keep all its attachments including the branch from the ALDA. I don't know if the second feed to the reservoir is necessary. My guess is it allows the reservoir to feed the emissions devices. I would cap the entire feed to the right side of the car as already mentioned, then take the additional step of capping the line to the reservoir as close to the reservoir as possible. You have to remove the fender liner around the right front wheel to get to the reservoir so maybe cap the line in the engine bay beyond the pair of splitters about where the fine green arrow is in the diagram.

Sixto
MB-less