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  #16  
Old 12-22-2012, 02:36 PM
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Just a reminder that the actuator from a 603 Garrett turbo is nearly a direct swap over to the 602.

Also, you can replace the entire mixer housing with about an 8" section of 2.25" silicone intercooler tubing.



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  #17  
Old 01-26-2013, 10:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dvalente View Post
Ok, good to know about the threads. I was just worried I'd get something stuck or stripped and wasn't wanting to deal with that. I'll just crank it in when the time comes then.
As for the part, ATP turbo has it in stock again. Or so I believe. I had ordered it months ago right before it went out of stock, and mine wasn't shipped until around 3 or 4 weeks back when they emailed to ask if I still wanted it because they had some in.
Since we're consolidating some useful information here, I'd like to comment on a couple other things.
For some reason nobody on the thread has suggested using one of the vacuum line mating fittings between the wastegate actuator and the nipple on the manifold fitting. Since they are different sizes, I plan to just pull off one of the vacuum fittings that I will no longer need, there's at least 2 or 3 that join dissimilar size tube, use a pair of hose clamps since they are smooth, and put in a short section of smaller diameter hose right before the wastegate actuator, that way all the lines connect to an appropriate size fitting.
I would also like to comment that I have seen concerns about pressure differences and actuator delays when using a long tube. The losses should be negligible since there is almost no flow through the tubing, and the pressure waves move at the speed of sound which is around 340m/s. So even if you use a meter of tubing, it's only 1/340 of a second delay, and it's not like the pressure in your manifold will instantly spike from 0 to 20psi, this will happen relatively gradually.

Hope this info helps everyone.
Thanks and another thought that has come to mind and may be of no particular concern but wondered if anyone had checked... and that is when using the ATP actuator that is always holding the wastegate closed ( unless 14psi is reached ) does the Exhaust Gas Temperature run measureably hotter and thereby result in premature failure of any component in particular the exhaust manifold.... I say all of this because I did a mod on brother's 92 and it has a cracked manifols which I believe occured before we did the mod but now am not 100% sure... and now I have the head off of my 91 and figured to do the mod before it fails... and was thinking ( you know what thinking can do to a person )
I did do a little research in that I ran the 91 ( before taking the head off )
and found that on light throttle application the inches of vacuum applied to the stock wastegate actuator was not at but near 0 ( say 1 or 2 ) and reasoning that the mean temperature would likely be affected positively with this factory design... and then we go and have a better idea... which I agree is far simpler and removes the rediculous EGR system...s and yet the EGTs?


regards
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  #18  
Old 01-26-2013, 11:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by auspumpen View Post
Just a reminder that the actuator from a 603 Garrett turbo is nearly a direct swap over to the 602.

Also, you can replace the entire mixer housing with about an 8" section of 2.25" silicone intercooler tubing.

Hmm... very interesting.

I may need to purchase a new turbo as mine is stiff to turn as though the bearrings may be alittle galded and there is some oil llaying in the pressure side of the piping at the turbo so... does the 603 Garrett match up sufficiently ? possibly with the addition of the silicone hose ?

I spoke with a very helpful gentlemen at ATP turbo that said that the housing can vary significantly on the T3 stock Garrett depending on application so we discussed how he could help me determine what I have without resorting to sending mine to him... but alternately if someone knows of a drop in match that would be very helpful.

regards
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  #19  
Old 01-26-2013, 11:17 AM
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Originally Posted by auspumpen View Post
Just a reminder that the actuator from a 603 Garrett turbo is nearly a direct swap over to the 602.

Also, you can replace the entire mixer housing with about an 8" section of 2.25" silicone intercooler tubing.

I see you are running a electric fan setup what make is it and did it come with the shroud ? ... are you happy with it ?

thanks
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  #20  
Old 01-26-2013, 04:56 PM
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The stock actuator is always holding the wastegate closed too. It's just using a computer-controlled vacuum signal, instead of a manually-controlled pressure signal. There is no change in EGT's unless you modify something else.

You don't want a T3 turbocharger a stock OM602 engine. If your turbo is bad, repair it or replace it.

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  #21  
Old 01-26-2013, 05:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gsxr View Post
The stock actuator is always holding the wastegate closed too. It's just using a computer-controlled vacuum signal, instead of a manually-controlled pressure signal. There is no change in EGT's unless you modify something else.

You don't want a T3 turbocharger a stock OM602 engine. If your turbo is bad, repair it or replace it.

Thanks...

I was under the impression the stock turbo is a T3 if not what is it and or what should I replace it with ?

additionaly - the reason I stated that the stock setup does not hold the wastegate closed at all times is that I ran arround with a shop vacuum gauge hooked to the vacuum signal being sent to the wastegate and it varied by throttle pressure form 10 in. at full to 2 in. at light throttle ( was one or the other not attenuated inbetween )

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  #22  
Old 01-26-2013, 05:16 PM
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OM603 stock turbo is T3.

OM602 stock turbo is T25. Replace it with a good used OM602 turbo, or just rebuild it. Messing with aftermarket will cause nothing but headaches on a stock motor.



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  #23  
Old 01-26-2013, 06:00 PM
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Originally Posted by gsxr View Post
OM603 stock turbo is T3.

OM602 stock turbo is T25. Replace it with a good used OM602 turbo, or just rebuild it. Messing with aftermarket will cause nothing but headaches on a stock motor.





Thanks,

where does one find a source for a rebuild kit / components / or a cartridge it there is such a thing available for the T25 ?
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  #24  
Old 02-05-2013, 07:54 PM
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Originally Posted by gsxr View Post
OM603 stock turbo is T3.

OM602 stock turbo is T25. Replace it with a good used OM602 turbo, or just rebuild it. Messing with aftermarket will cause nothing but headaches on a stock motor.



I just pulled mine from the parts stack and found the AT.. number to be AT0003 does that designate a T3 Garrett or is it the other numbers that designate the Garrett series ? by the by my other numbers were an exact match ( the best I can see ) from your image.

thanks
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  #25  
Old 02-05-2013, 08:01 PM
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See info posted here:
Turbo blown (w124 300D)....where do i buy a new turbo?

I don't believe that number has any relation to T3 vs T25.
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  #26  
Old 02-06-2013, 07:12 AM
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Originally Posted by gsxr View Post
See info posted here:
Turbo blown (w124 300D)....where do i buy a new turbo?

I don't believe that number has any relation to T3 vs T25.
Thank you very much

Quote for the day :
as an aside I find it amazing the complexity that is created by us humans
... is the quantity of letters and numbers (31 in this case) really necessary or will we be viewed as a more advanced civilization thousands of years from now when a Garrett Turbo is unearthed from that nameless sealed chamber after we are entombed by yellowstone ... ? you be the judge : End Quote
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  #27  
Old 02-09-2013, 01:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Chris_ View Post
I see you are running a electric fan setup what make is it and did it come with the shroud ? ... are you happy with it ?

thanks
As Dave mentioned, just swap in another T25 turbo instead of a T3. The flanges are quite different anyway.

T3 on top and T25 in the middle:



The electric fan project is outlined here. I'm quite pleased with it, but will withhold final judgment until I fully test extreme grades during Summer heat.
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  #28  
Old 02-09-2013, 07:01 PM
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Originally Posted by auspumpen View Post
As Dave mentioned, just swap in another T25 turbo instead of a T3. The flanges are quite different anyway.

T3 on top and T25 in the middle:



The electric fan project is outlined here. I'm quite pleased with it, but will withhold final judgment until I fully test extreme grades during Summer heat.

Thanks much for the input ... appreciated
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  #29  
Old 11-27-2014, 11:01 AM
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What about egr delete and vacuum hose/solenoids to delete??

Ok, I'm new to the forum and this is my first post. I'm planning to buy the pressure wastegate and nipple. I like the idea of using the old vacuum wastegate nuts to compensate for the longer rod instead of tapping new threads and cutting part of the rod. I have a few questions though: 1) I need detailed instructions/pictures of where to cap and delete which vacuum line and where? 2) need to know if anyone out there can lead me in the right direction for egr block off plates for the pipes at intake and the circle at the bottom of the egr to engine? 3) will this upgrade interfere with computer functions of the car?? I'm really interested in learning from you guys who seem to have awesome advice and help others with Mercedes questions that I may know.
Please help me out I have had no power in my 1991 300D since I bought it. I have the intake and crossmember/egr/flapper off all the way down to the turbo, because it was clogged up with soot. I cleaned it and still no boost. Instead of troubleshooting all the vacuum actuators, I would rather just go with the more reliable route of converting the wastegate to pressurized and deleting EGR since my state has no emissions. I would just like for it to be simple and reliable.
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  #30  
Old 11-27-2014, 11:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Nojdog View Post
I have a few questions though: 1) I need detailed instructions/pictures of where to cap and delete which vacuum line and where? 2) need to know if anyone out there can lead me in the right direction for egr block off plates for the pipes at intake and the circle at the bottom of the egr to engine? 3) will this upgrade interfere with computer functions of the car?? .
1) Instructions are in the links back in post #1 at this thread. It's a lot of reading, sorry.

2) See #1.

3) The wastegate conversion will not interfere with the computers. Once you convert to manual wastegate, the only remaining function of the computer will be idle speed control.


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