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#16
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Just a reminder that the actuator from a 603 Garrett turbo is nearly a direct swap over to the 602.
Also, you can replace the entire mixer housing with about an 8" section of 2.25" silicone intercooler tubing. |
#17
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![]() I did do a little research in that I ran the 91 ( before taking the head off ![]() and found that on light throttle application the inches of vacuum applied to the stock wastegate actuator was not at but near 0 ( say 1 or 2 ) and reasoning that the mean temperature would likely be affected positively with this factory design... and then we go and have a better idea... which I agree is far simpler and removes the rediculous EGR system...s and yet the EGTs? regards |
#18
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I may need to purchase a new turbo as mine is stiff to turn as though the bearrings may be alittle galded and there is some oil llaying in the pressure side of the piping at the turbo so... does the 603 Garrett match up sufficiently ? possibly with the addition of the silicone hose ? I spoke with a very helpful gentlemen at ATP turbo that said that the housing can vary significantly on the T3 stock Garrett depending on application so we discussed how he could help me determine what I have without resorting to sending mine to him... but alternately if someone knows of a drop in match that would be very helpful. regards |
#19
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thanks |
#20
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The stock actuator is always holding the wastegate closed too. It's just using a computer-controlled vacuum signal, instead of a manually-controlled pressure signal. There is no change in EGT's unless you modify something else.
You don't want a T3 turbocharger a stock OM602 engine. If your turbo is bad, repair it or replace it. ![]() |
#21
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I was under the impression the stock turbo is a T3 if not what is it and or what should I replace it with ? additionaly - the reason I stated that the stock setup does not hold the wastegate closed at all times is that I ran arround with a shop vacuum gauge hooked to the vacuum signal being sent to the wastegate and it varied by throttle pressure form 10 in. at full to 2 in. at light throttle ( was one or the other not attenuated inbetween ) regards |
#22
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OM603 stock turbo is T3.
OM602 stock turbo is T25. Replace it with a good used OM602 turbo, or just rebuild it. Messing with aftermarket will cause nothing but headaches on a stock motor. ![]() ![]() |
#23
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Thanks, where does one find a source for a rebuild kit / components / or a cartridge it there is such a thing available for the T25 ? |
#24
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thanks |
#25
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See info posted here:
Turbo blown (w124 300D)....where do i buy a new turbo? I don't believe that number has any relation to T3 vs T25.
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#26
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Quote for the day : as an aside I find it amazing the complexity that is created by us humans ... is the quantity of letters and numbers (31 in this case) really necessary or will we be viewed as a more advanced civilization thousands of years from now when a Garrett Turbo is unearthed from that nameless sealed chamber after we are entombed by yellowstone ... ![]() |
#27
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T3 on top and T25 in the middle: The electric fan project is outlined here. I'm quite pleased with it, but will withhold final judgment until I fully test extreme grades during Summer heat. |
#28
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Thanks much for the input ... appreciated |
#29
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What about egr delete and vacuum hose/solenoids to delete??
Ok, I'm new to the forum and this is my first post. I'm planning to buy the pressure wastegate and nipple. I like the idea of using the old vacuum wastegate nuts to compensate for the longer rod instead of tapping new threads and cutting part of the rod. I have a few questions though: 1) I need detailed instructions/pictures of where to cap and delete which vacuum line and where? 2) need to know if anyone out there can lead me in the right direction for egr block off plates for the pipes at intake and the circle at the bottom of the egr to engine? 3) will this upgrade interfere with computer functions of the car?? I'm really interested in learning from you guys who seem to have awesome advice and help others with Mercedes questions that I may know.
Please help me out I have had no power in my 1991 300D since I bought it. I have the intake and crossmember/egr/flapper off all the way down to the turbo, because it was clogged up with soot. I cleaned it and still no boost. Instead of troubleshooting all the vacuum actuators, I would rather just go with the more reliable route of converting the wastegate to pressurized and deleting EGR since my state has no emissions. I would just like for it to be simple and reliable. |
#30
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2) See #1. 3) The wastegate conversion will not interfere with the computers. Once you convert to manual wastegate, the only remaining function of the computer will be idle speed control. ![]()
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