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#16
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^^ Doesn't have to. You can always pull the plug and jumper the terminals. Or start from the terminal block. Your NSS is likely just fine but needs tweaking.
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80 300SD (129k mi) 82 240D stick (193k mi)77 240D auto - stick to be (153k mi) 85 380SL (145k mi) 89 BMW 535i 82 Diesel Rabbit Pickup (374k mi) 91 Jetta IDI Diesel (155k mi) 81 VW Rabbit Convertible Diesel 70 Triumph Spitfire Mk III (63kmi)66 Triumph TR4a IRS (90k mi)67 Ford F-100 (??) |
#17
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UPDATE
I replaced both the bushings and the NSS. The cover for the current NSS was crumbling off and a new, Mercedes OE NSS for $65.
So it's been fine for a few months - not a hint of a problem. Now just this monring the key went ' CLICK ' when i went into start postion. It started after moving the shifter around. So it may need NSS adjustment? Or is there something else that can be causing this?
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------------------------------- '85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit) '82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car '83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car |
#18
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I'm looking at an 83_300 elec wiring diagram's starting circuit. The path for power to the starter solenoid starts from the battery > terminal block on pass fender > light switch (terminal 30) > ign switch > NSS > starter solenoid. A sticky solenoid, or bad connection(s) bad wiring at any of those components can cause the problem you're having. I'd start by putting a voltmeter on the starter solenoid terminal and measure voltage when it is energized. I'm not sure what it should be but my guess is not lower than 11 volts. If you jumper the solenoid directly to battery + terminal and it cranks, then you know you have a bad connection or component somewhere along that path
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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now 83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD! 83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked |
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