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  #16  
Old 11-04-2011, 04:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LarryBible View Post
While the fan control switches are in position such that the fan SHOULD turn on, wiggle the key switch and see if it comes on. I've seen a flaky ignition switch cause this trouble before.
Exactly my thoughts... I've seen this way more than once on W123 and W126 cars, both gas and Diesel.

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  #17  
Old 11-04-2011, 01:56 PM
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I had one more quick thought...do these cars use a Rheostat? I know in my 72 El-Camino one went bad, just wondering if the 240D has one?

Thanks again
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  #18  
Old 11-04-2011, 02:02 PM
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Nope. Three (I think) resistors. Your switch controls how many of them current has to go through to get to the blower. In your application I believe they are located inside the heater box. You do have manual climate control, right?
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  #19  
Old 11-04-2011, 02:38 PM
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Concentrate on the fuse holder first of all. Take a test light to ground from first one side of the fuseholder. Not the fuse. Than to the other with the fuse installed and blower turned to full. Ignition key has to be in the run position for these tests. .. Or bridge the two fuseholder terminals with the blower in the high on position and fuse installed as well. Use a test meter or test light. Your choice. This circuit is a fairly heavy current draw as the blower motors get older sometimes. The original fuseholder may no longer be up to the job. Many people in the past have substituted a pigtail arrangement type fuseholder to circumvent it. Just saying check it out very carefully.

When the blower switch is positioned in the highest flow position my guess is the voltage reduction device or speed enabler is basically bypassed. That is in the engine comparment I believe.

On a two forty this is a pretty simple ciruit of the speed switch that you have replaced, The motor, the resistance voltage reduction device and the fuse and fuseholder and last but not least the connection through the keyswitch that is either direct or activates a relay.

I will have to leave it up to others to mention if there is a relay trigggered by the ignition a switch in the run position. Otherwise that 10 plus amps is going to be seen by the key switch itself. The chances of connection failure other than at the fuseholder are small. In a way that fuseholder from the factory can be problamatic. It is the only fuseholder in that electrical system known to be marginal in design as the blowers get older. Failure in that area is known.
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  #20  
Old 11-06-2011, 11:33 PM
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So I finally got a chance to go out and look at the #8 fuse and there is no power to it. So I used a jumper wire from the #10 fuse and the fan fired right up. Any idea's where to go from here?

Thanks
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  #21  
Old 11-06-2011, 11:50 PM
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I would wire in a pigail fuseholder from the largest wire to the fusepanel that shuts off and on with the keyswitch. The other end of the pigtail fuse holder to the higher end of that old fuseholder.

Throw a spare glass fuse or spade fuse in the glove compartment that fits it as well.

You may have bypassed another item in the blower motor chain with your picking up your voltage source from another supply source though. At least keep this in mind. Could be the keyswitch or relay controlled by it although I do not have a wiring diagram to tell.
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  #22  
Old 11-07-2011, 11:59 AM
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Have you wiggled the ignition switch yet?
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  #23  
Old 11-07-2011, 01:54 PM
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Good Luck ID240d ! I'm hoping you get it fixed. I'm praying for ya! Mine stopped working but it was the fan brushes. Completely different issue but i understand what a bummer it is when it does not work and how frustrating it is trying to find it!

did the switch wiggle have no effect?
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  #24  
Old 11-07-2011, 03:25 PM
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Thanks again for the replies....so I am a little confused about the ignition switch wiggle, should I just wiggle the key in the ignition or pull the panel under the steering wheel and wiggle the ignition assembly behind the dash..sorry for the dumb question just want to make sure it try it the right way.

Thanks again for the help!
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1980 300TD 200K Third row seat, original owner car with lots of documentation

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  #25  
Old 11-08-2011, 08:29 AM
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Wiggling the key I beleive is what they mean.
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  #26  
Old 11-08-2011, 08:38 AM
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Yes, wiggle the key. These switches get flaky. With the fan switches in position to run the fan, and the switch in the run position, wiggle the switch.
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  #27  
Old 04-30-2013, 11:21 AM
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well after pulling my entire center console (almost) i decided to jump the fuse that looks fine, it wasn't. #8

Ill either need to jumper it, or repair the contact, either way thanks. and now the console can go back together, .......
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  #28  
Old 02-01-2016, 05:29 PM
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...low priority because "...if it ain't 'broke'..." On my 82 240D (340K) ... only the highest, of the 3, positions doesn't work--high, that is. It acts as if I have low, medium and medium....highest switch position just keeps fan running at the middle / #2 of 3, positions. ....not something I can't live with. ...but curious.

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