hey guys, Thanks in advance for your input.

I have a 1981 300td and love it... however it currently is suffering from a crazy bouncy rear end (inflatable bounce house status.) I know that this is a common problem but before i order parts i wanted your input....

the rear of the wagon bounces like crazy driving down bumpy roads... when parked, with the engine off you can bounce the rear of the car (by jumping up and down on the rear bumper) and it continue to bounce after you step off the bumper.... The SLS seems to work, and if you manually manipulate the leaver it will raise and lower the rear end without hesitation.

as far as i can tell there are no leaks in the sls system, and the fluid in the reservoir is at the correct level.

from what i can gather the accumulators need replacing? and while im at it would you guys suggest replacing anything else?

-as a side note i am running on straight vegetable oil via a two tank system. I have over 10k miles with no problems at all. My 2nd tank is located in the spare tire compartment so i have more weight than usual in the rear...despite this my other mercedes diesels (sedans) handle wonderfully, and i see no reason why the wagon should not as well..

thanks again!

Yup that's accumulators. Mine was bounding like a boat down the road before I put my new accumulators. It's a easy job if all the hydraulic lines aren't corroded together. Be ready with a catch pan when you open the first line, when the accumulators go bad the rubber diaphragm inside ruptures and the whole accumulator fills with fluid. Sounds like everything else is in order, but you might think about flushing out the old fluid and putting in new. You want to use either the Febi/Bilstein stuff, MB stuff, or mineral oil. Don't use regular hydraulic fluid

Here is a thread all about how the system works and trouble shooting the system.
Self-Leveling-System - How it works, and troubleshooting the system

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Wear goggles when doing that job.....

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1980 240d ,

chain elongation, cam marks reference:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/10414-help-i-need-check-stretch.html

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html

evap fin cleaning:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator

A/C thread

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html

X2. If you can't open the bleeder screw on the valve to release the pressure, just crack the fitting at the accumulator a hair, definitely just a hair. Make sure the car will not drop on you when the pressure is removed from the system. You don't want your last utterance to be "Shi. . .'

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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

There's a great tool for flare fittings, the Vise Grip 4LW. It's like a regular Vise Grip except that it has a V-shaped notch cut into the fixed jaw. It grips a 10mm or 11mm hex-head flare fitting, and will not slip or mar the fitting. It's an outstanding tool for brake lines, but good for all hydraulic fittings. Definitely superior to a flare wrench, especially on fittings that have rusted.

thanks for the info guys, Im going to order the parts tonight and try and get it sorted this week! Thanks for the hint on the goggles, i'll see if i can bleed the pressure off the system first, then attack the accumulators...

thanks again!