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  #16  
Old 12-14-2011, 09:13 PM
'84 300D Owner
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 211
Quote:
Originally Posted by Army View Post
Sorry but I don't follow your logic. Are you trying to avoid drip timing an IP by putting in a new chain? You should really check begin of delivery after replacing the chain.
My logic is as follows:

My timing chain is elongated by ~4 degrees. If my cam timing is off then the IP timing must be off as well, although I haven't done any IP tests to determine this for a fact.

I just figure that the same elongated chain is driving both components' timing, that replacing the chain would fix, or at least improve, the timing of both components. Replace one part, improve the timing of both the cam and IP. The other alternative is to remove the cam sprocket and install a woodruff key to correct the cam timing, then do the IP timing procedures (which I don't really want to attempt).

The other alternative is to do nothing, since my car starts fine cold, and I notice no performance/power issues. However, since the odometer is about to turn over 180,000 miles, and I have no idea if the timing chain has ever ever replaced, it wouldn't be a bad idea to replace it.

Is there any way to determine if the timing chain has been replaced? Is it possible to rotate the engine slowly and look for some distinguishing aspect that would identify the master link? Weren't the timing chains from the factory continuous (no master link)?

Thanks again to the learned members of the PP forum!

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'84 300D
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  #17  
Old 12-14-2011, 09:18 PM
Banned
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Blue Point, NY
Posts: 25,396
Quote:
Originally Posted by cbjukraine View Post
then do the IP timing procedures (which I don't really want to attempt).
Of course you do.

You have an '84 which can be timed perfectly, by a novice, in 30 minutes or less, via the use of the A-B lights. You just contact MBDoc and rent the unit from him...........and take good care of it...........and you get perfect IP timing results.

You don't use the logic of replacing the chain simply because you don't want to tackle the drip method.
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  #18  
Old 12-15-2011, 03:03 AM
Stretch's Avatar
...like a shield of steel
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Somewhere in the Netherlands
Posts: 14,461
I think there is a danger that you'll inadvertently change the position of the timing device cog during a timing chain change anyway... so you'd have to check the IP timing either with them there gucci A-B lights if your IP has that facility or the drip method.

That was what I was getting at...

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1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
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