Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog How To Articles Tech Forums
Call Pelican Parts at 888-280-7799
Shopping Cart Cart | Project List | Order Status | Help



Go Back   PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum > Mercedes-Benz Tech Information and Support > Diesel Discussion

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 01-01-2012, 02:30 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 10
Steering Problems on 87 300td

I have recently rebuilt the suspension of my 1987 300td. I am not a mechanic but through reading this board was able to accomplish the job including resealing the tandem pump, resealing the steering pump, and getting the self leveling system to work. When I finished I had a problem where the car felt bouncy. Not like the pods were bad but it bounced around more then it should. I finally diagnosed it as air in the hydraulic system. I was able to fix that by having my son and three of his friends bounce on the rear bumper of the car while I held the throttle to 2200 rpm. That bounce is now gone.

I have another problem that I can not diagnose. When I turn the car hard to the right the the steering kind of locks in place as if it has come hard against a stop and doesn't "bounce" back to the center. It doesn't take any force on the wheel to get the steering off of the "stop" but I know it is not right. I was careful to measure the pitman arm and have it back in the right place to on the steering pump. I am wondering if 1) the pitman arm may need to be adjusted in or out on the shaft of the steering pump or 2) when replacing the seals in the power steering pump could I have incorrectly aligned the gears inside the pump. The mark on the pitman arm does align with the mark on the power steering pump. Any help with this would be appreciated.

I took the car into the best independent mechanic that I know of (he goes to Germany on vacation and does research for Mercedes in their vaults) and he could not diagnose the hard "stop" on the steering.

Now that the air in the hydraulics is cleared up the car drives much better but I can now feel a different problem. When making a turn on a windy road and the road is flat the car feels fine. When there is a bump on the road during the turn the front end bounces a little and the car doesn't track correctly. I am not sure if this happens on both right and left turns or just on right turns. It is very subtle but unnerving.

Is there anyone who can help me with these problems?

Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 01-01-2012, 02:58 PM
sixto's Avatar
smoke gets in your eyes
 
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Eastern TN
Posts: 20,841
We should get our terms straight. To most folks here, the steering pump is the device driven by the engine serpentine belt that delivers pressure to assist in steering. In the case of your TD, the steering pump is in tandem with the pump that provides pressure to the SLS. The device that takes a signal from the steering wheel and is assisted by the steering pump is the steering gearbox or just steering box. The pitman arm attaches to the steering box.

I have difficulty understanding the problem you describe but it sounds like you reach a point in right turns that the steering linkage doesn't naturally return to straight ahead when you release the steering wheel. That's unusual. My questions at this point:

1) Did you touch anything in the steering linkage? Tie rods, center link, idler arm, etc.?

2) How far into the steering box did you go? Did you replace the pitman arm shaft seal and call it a day, or did you take it apart completely and set preload to the inch-pounds specifications? If you removed the steering box from the car, did you use locking compound on the bolts (which you're not supposed to reuse)? Is it still firmly attached to the frame?

3) Did you do any work to the front suspension that might have altered camber, caster or toe settings?

4) Did you bleed the power steering system?

5) What motivated you to touch the steering system in the first place? What problem were you addressing?

Having asked all that, someone will come along and suggest you flip some switch to make it right

Sixto
87 300D
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 01-01-2012, 08:01 PM
oldiesel's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: florida
Posts: 677
I will keep my eye on this problem as i have the same thing on my 87 wagon when you go fully to the stop on the steering it does not self return! However since it turns back with normal pressure on the steering wheel i never gave it much thought.Maybe we will hear from some of the many other 87TD owners here. Don
__________________
Red Green "This is only temporary,Unless it works!"

97 E300D 157000 miles
87 300TD ?141k? miles
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 01-01-2012, 08:16 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Barrington, RI
Posts: 5,875
I recently had this problem (not self-centering) on my 91 300D. I had all sorts of suggestions, including alignment and steering damper....it was very frustrating In my case, it turned out to be bad ball joints. Though there were neither loose nor squeaking, they were in fact bad. As a safety precaution if nothing else, if your ball joints have never been replaced, replace them.

Anyway, either your alignment is off or something is binding, preventing the steering from self-centering.
__________________
14 E250 Bluetec "Sinclair", Palladium Silver on Black, 153k miles
06 E320 CDI "Rutherford", Black on Tan, 171k mi, Stage 1 tune, tuned TCU
91 300D "Otis", Smoke Silver, 142k mi, wastegate conversion

19 Honda CR-V EX 61k mi
Fourteen other MB's owned and sold
1961 Very Tolerant Wife
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 01-03-2012, 11:54 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 10
I replied to this post but I had all the text inside the quote so perhaps that is why it got lost.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sixto View Post
We should get our terms straight. To most folks here, the steering pump is the device driven by the engine serpentine belt that delivers pressure to assist in steering. In the case of your TD, the steering pump is in tandem with the pump that provides pressure to the SLS. The device that takes a signal from the steering wheel and is assisted by the steering pump is the steering gearbox or just steering box. The pitman arm attaches to the steering box.
[COLOR="rgb(65, 105, 225)"]Thanks for the info. I was confused in my terminology. I rebuilt opened up both the tandem pump and the steering box. I had installed the same steering Box that was in the car and then when I tested it there was a massive leak when I turned the car to hard right. I opened up that steering box and found a a flaw in the metal of the casing. I then took out the steering box from my parts car and installed it. I don't remember whether I opened up the second steering box or not.[/COLOR]


I have difficulty understanding the problem you describe but it sounds like you reach a point in right turns that the steering linkage doesn't naturally return to straight ahead when you release the steering wheel.
That is exactly the problem that I am havingThat's unusual. My questions at this point:

1) Did you touch anything in the steering linkage? Tie rods, center link, idler arm, etc.?
[COLOR="rgb(65, 105, 225)"]I replaced all of the above parts. Pretty much everything in the front end[/COLOR]


2) How far into the steering box did you go? Did you replace the pitman arm shaft seal and call it a day, or did you take it apart completely and set preload to the inch-pounds specifications?
[COLOR="rgb(65, 105, 225)"]I took the steering box apart[/COLOR] If you removed the steering box from the car, did you use locking compound on the bolts (which you're not supposed to reuse)? Is it still firmly attached to the frame?

3) Did you do any work to the front suspension that might have altered camber, caster or toe settings? [COLOR="rgb(65, 105, 225)"]Yes I did but then took the car in to have it aligned.[/COLOR]

4) Did you bleed the power steering system? [COLOR="rgb(65, 105, 225)"]As I remember the power steering bleeding was a pretty simple cruise down the driveway to "berp" the air out. [/COLOR]

5) What motivated you to touch the steering system in the first place? What problem were you addressing? [COLOR="rgb(65, 105, 225)"]I had multiple problems. I had a leak in the steering box which I couldn't find because it only leaked when the wheel was turned hard right. I thought the leak was coming off of the engine somewhere but I was wrong. Also there was a problem with the tie rods. The car would clunk every time we turned. I don't remember if it was both ways or just to the right. I replaced all of the front end bushing and tie rods. Then the pods went bad and the car was bouncing. When I fixed that I found that the tandem pump wasn't working so I resealed that and it works fine now. I also had to clean the SLS valve. The SLS works now but may need a final adjustment. I then replaced the rear end suspension arms bushings tie rods etc. Now I am down to trying to figure out this final problem ( I hope) [/COLOR]

Having asked all that, someone will come along and suggest you flip some switch to make it right

Sixto
87 300D
Thanks for the questions Sixto hopefully someone will have the answers.
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 01-03-2012, 11:59 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by shertex View Post
I recently had this problem (not self-centering) on my 91 300D. I had all sorts of suggestions, including alignment and steering damper....it was very frustrating In my case, it turned out to be bad ball joints. Though there were neither loose nor squeaking, they were in fact bad. As a safety precaution if nothing else, if your ball joints have never been replaced, replace them.

Anyway, either your alignment is off or something is binding, preventing the steering from self-centering.
Thanks I have had the car aligned and have replaced all of the tie rods and ball joints. Unless something was bad from the factory parts ( a possibility) I don't think that it is a bad ball joint. My latest guess is the steering box. I have one on the bench that has a flaw. I am going to study it and see if I can figure out what it is that causes the steering to "bounce back" If anyone knows them intimately I would love to hear about how the work.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 01-03-2012, 12:08 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Barrington, RI
Posts: 5,875
Quote:
Originally Posted by Seadawg33 View Post
Thanks I have had the car aligned and have replaced all of the tie rods and ball joints. Unless something was bad from the factory parts ( a possibility) I don't think that it is a bad ball joint. My latest guess is the steering box. I have one on the bench that has a flaw. I am going to study it and see if I can figure out what it is that causes the steering to "bounce back" If anyone knows them intimately I would love to hear about how the work.
Call C&M Hydraulics 888.407.6900. MB steering box experts. Extremely helpful.
__________________
14 E250 Bluetec "Sinclair", Palladium Silver on Black, 153k miles
06 E320 CDI "Rutherford", Black on Tan, 171k mi, Stage 1 tune, tuned TCU
91 300D "Otis", Smoke Silver, 142k mi, wastegate conversion

19 Honda CR-V EX 61k mi
Fourteen other MB's owned and sold
1961 Very Tolerant Wife
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 01-03-2012, 12:25 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 10
Thanks Shertex
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 01-03-2012, 01:04 PM
Stretch's Avatar
...like a shield of steel
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Somewhere in the Netherlands
Posts: 14,461
I'd go and look at the control valve. As far as I know that's the only thing that could be providing the bounce you want. As you have seen from the W123 steering box there's no return spring in there - I think the W124 steering box is of a similar breed.

http://www.startekinfo.com/StarTek/outside/12264/disc_2/Program/Chassis/46-0238.pdf

Found from

Mercedes-Benz Model 124 Service Manual Library

I think you'll have to remove the steering box to access it though. Keep on looking through those online PDFs and you'll find the FSM chapter to help you with that.
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 01-03-2012, 01:16 PM
sixto's Avatar
smoke gets in your eyes
 
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Eastern TN
Posts: 20,841
This thread by Army is very well presented. It'll bring a tear to your eye

What a feeling it will be! A properly adjusted W123 / W116 / W126 power steering box

Which brings up another question - when you installed the steering box and had the wheels aligned, did you use the centering tool? Not many alignment shops are aware that MB requires this tool.

Sixto
87 300D
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 01-03-2012, 01:23 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 10
Thanks Army and Sixto. I have the original steering box ( with the flaw) on the bench right now. I will have a look at it and see if I can replace the control valve. I got a new set of sockets for Christmas so this will be a nice way to break in my new toy.
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 01-03-2012, 01:30 PM
vstech's Avatar
DD MOD, HVAC,MCP,Mac,GMAC
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Mount Holly, NC
Posts: 26,841
keep in mind, the 87 has the strut bearings up top, they could be damaged, or old, and keep the steering from returning as well! Mine squeak when I turn... so I know I'll need a set soon...
__________________
John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 01-03-2012, 09:18 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 10
VS Tech thanks for that piece of information. The timing is great. I just heard the front end squeaking as I went over some speed bumps. The speed bumps were in the tire shop where the mechanic said I should look into changing my front struts.

Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 03:18 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2024 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Peach Parts or Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page