I don't know why it couldn't be done in a W123.

I'd remove the top end of the engine first (cyl. head, manifolds, etc).

I'd remove the radiator and the fan but leave the oil cooler in place.

Now I would inspect each cylinder to see if there is any MAJOR damage like deep grooves or scoring. I'd do that by turning the engine over with a socket on the crankshaft bolt and try not to get the timing chain jammed up. If it does, just turn the engine backwards a bit and pull the chain loose by hand.

Then I'd remove the A/C compressor from its bracket, although I'd leave the A/C lines connected, and hang it from a wire so it wouldn't put pressure on the A/C lines.
I'd do the same with the P/S pump.

I would then remove the large allen bolt from each motor mount and jack up the engine slowly as high as possible with a floor jack under the lower metal oil pan (with a block of wood between jack and pan to not damage it.)

Then I would put wood blocks between the rubber motor mounts and the mount arms to support the engine and remove the floor jack.

Now I'd remove the lower small steel oil pan.

Then I'd remove the upper oil pan. It will probably be a tight fit. You'll need to pound out the oil dipstick tube with a homemade rod and probably rotate the crankshaft with a socket on the crankshaft bolt to get clearance.
What I mean is that the pan will come halfway out then appear to be stuck. It's just hitting a part of the crankshaft. Rotating the crank should get you the clearance you need.

On the bright side, if it's an 85 300D CA model, now you can get to the starter easily and rebuild it!

This just goes to show that you can remove the upper pan without removing the motor from the car !!!

__________________
Grumpy Old Diesel Owners Club group

I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort....

1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket.
1980 300D now parts car 800k miles
1984 300D 500k miles
1987 250td 160k miles English import
2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles
1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo.
1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion.
Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving

Thank you sir!

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1985 300D (CA, 173K)

Dynamite Biodiesel Co-op, Phoenix,AZ

what about the rear main seal?

I have heard/read that it is a real pain in the butt to get that upper pan back in place on the bench on on an engine support. Did you find it possible to get it back on?

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Junqueyardjim
Christianity, if false, is of no importance, and if true, of infinite importance. The only thing it cannot be is moderately important. C.S. Lewis



1983 Mercedes W123 240D 4 Speed 285,000 on the road with a 617 turbo, beautiful butter yellow, license plate # 83 240D INDIANA

2003 Jaguar Type X, AWD. beautiful, good mileage,
Mom's car, but I won't let her drive it!

If you need to change the rear main seal, then you need to pull the engine and the crankshaft. Otherwise you can just change the bottom half and pray.

I reinstalled mine on the W126 while the block was in the car. It was just a question of patience.

Quick question, (I've never had my engines apart. YET.), if the rear main is a 2 piece seal, why can you not roll in the upper peice ? ( I am assuming it is a 'rope' type oil seal.) I have done this on several gas engines, and it has worked.

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1984 300 D runs, interior
1984 300 D light hit in front, RUST, mint/perfect dash, decent interior (see above), parts car
(hate to kill one)
1998 Dodge diesel

There are pins which prohibit this. Pictures on here somewhere--from Army I think.

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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

ran across this ..dunno if there's more
rear main seal
i haven't come across info for upper pan removal in a 123 w/engine in cah,

as far as someone having done it

Here is another Rear Main seal replacement.
Rear Crankshaft Rope Seal Replacement Without Removing Crank

Charlie

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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

NAAAAAHHHHH!!!! Just give him the money that the ticket, with the extra cost of bringing suitcase and tools would cost, and let him drive out there and back!!!! LOL . . . am sure he can also pick someone up who would help pay for fuel. Fuel up at the Pemex, and a couple ten-gallon cans, on his way out of Mexico.


BTW, to the EXPAT . . . eres en Rosarita??? There is a strip in TJ that is devoted to MBZs, and I hear they are very reasonable (or were). Being that you live there, and I assume 'que tu hablas espanol,' they would charge you less than the gringos who live north of the border. Have you tried them for parts? If I was still living in SoCal, I'd offer to drive the parts down to you every so often. I used to go at least once a year down to Encenada, and my folks had an RV that they would park on the beach for every 4-day weekend.
so, in essence, I would be there at least 4 times a year. I'm sure there are others that go down as often as I did, also.

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1983 300D, the "Avocado"
1976 240D, 4-spd the "Pumpkin", SOLD to Pierre
1984 190D, 2.2L, 5-spd, my intro to MBZ diesels, crashed into in 2002

Oh, BTW to EXPAT, there is a huge section devoted to MBZ diesels at the Pick Ur Part in Chula Vista, CA. It's a subdivision of LKQ. I got a complete interior one time for $75. Is a great resource for MBZ parts.

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1983 300D, the "Avocado"
1976 240D, 4-spd the "Pumpkin", SOLD to Pierre
1984 190D, 2.2L, 5-spd, my intro to MBZ diesels, crashed into in 2002

That's really cool. I just started rebuilding a 617 a week ago and, oddly enough, it too burned 1 qt of oil per 100 miles! Go figure. Awesome story!

Replacing the cylinder liners takes no special tools and is fairly easy. I did this on my 1985 block. The trick I found is, from the bottom beat on the liner with a thin punch or screwdriver to fold the liner away from the block. Then put a long screwdriver in the crack and hammer it down. The cast-iron liner will crack and fold in, then drop out easily.

Sand the bores good and lube with WD40. Oil or grease would probably work better but I was afraid of that leaving the liner squirrely. I chilled the new liners in the freezer and heated the block in the sun and with a propane grill underneath, but only got it to ~150 F. I beat the new liners in with a sledgehammer acting on a thick steel plate. Many medium hits seemed to work best. I had to beat harder than I was comfortable, but didn't see any cracks. When it seats on the top groove, you can tell from the sound. If I did it again, I would use a bigger grill and heat the block to ~300 F, where I calculate the liner would almost drop in.

You could do all this with the block in the car. However, you still might need a machine shop to mill the tops of the liners flush (protrude ~0.020"), though maybe a file and stone could manage that by hand. The new liners measured much thicker than the old. I don't know if that is to allow for machining or mine were really worn at 330K miles. You might hone the new liners to fit the pistons using a hand drill and stone, but might take a long time if a lot of metal to remove.

I am waiting to get replacement pistons, which seems to be the biggest hangup in rebuilding the engine. Amazing that nobody makes new pistons, given the number of 300D's sold around the world.