so i'm trying to do a throttle adjustment. with pedal floored i still could gain another inch of travel in the linkage before hitting the full throttle stop.

when i loosened (and then completely removed) the hex screw on the regulating shaft, nothing seemed to budge. can get a flat head in between them and sort of lightly pry them apart, but thats about it. i'm assuming that the two pieces connected by the hex screw are supposed to move up and down independently of each other?

i'll continue with my WD40 and light (and slightly harder) tapping to free the pieces of each other, but thought i should check and make sure that is actually the desired effect i should be trying to achieve before really knocking it around too much....

Attached Thumbnails

 

IP Full Load Adjustment 617 Turbo


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Each linkage has a ball and socket end. These are adjustable. Loosen the nut on the shaft next to the socket end, pop socket off ball and unscrew a few turns then put back on and check linkage. You may have to adjust several to get back the full movement. Just be sure to not get it to tight so that it will not return to idle. The part you are trying to adjust can be left alone. This effects gas/diesel pedal height.

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i adjusted the linkages as best i could, but i don't think thats gonna make up the difference. at full throttle with the final linkage disconnected i fall short just over an inch...way more than i can make up with the threads on the ball joints.

for what its worth the engine was swapped and i'm wondering if there was a mish-mash of linkages from old/new engine that were pieced together to make everything connect and maybe something shorter was thrown in (did find a random linkage in the car after the swap, although it doesn't seem to fit anywhere).
my understanding from the FSM was that i could make up some of this distance by adjusting the regulating shaft (loosen hex with pedal floored, then release pedal a little bit and retighten hex).
if the only way to obtain full throttle is by playing with the linkages then maybe i need to actually get a replacement linkage that is slightly longer to throw in there?

If the 617 linkage is anything like my 616, take a look at where the horizontal rod from the firewall engages the linkage bracket on the engine.
The end of the rod [which may be one of a few configurations] should have some sort of bushing where it engages the engine bracket. On my 81 the bushing was gone and there was excessive slop in the linkage,
I jury rigged a bushing using popsicle sticks and duct tape [still on].
It solved the problem

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1981 240D 143k 4 spd manual -SOLD

2004 VW Jetta TDI 5 speed 300k -still driven daily

The FSM gives lengths for the linkages to be set to.

If the engine has been swapped out:
* It is very possible/likely they used one or more incorrect rods.

A couple of pictures would help diagnosis.
* Linkage neutral/at rest wide pictures.
* Maximum accelerator (forced to floor) linkage pictures.
* Try to get pictures of the injection pump stop in Neutral/at rest and Maximum accelerator positions.

As a note, you may need to alter/fabricate one or more thrust rod.
I suggest if you MUST:
* Cut the existing rod in the middle, to weld or silver solder additional pipe/rod in.


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