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  #1  
Old 01-13-2012, 07:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KaiserChief View Post
Valves, eh? *grimace*

I got the car from my cousin in California in July, and drove it all the way to Missouri. Just this Christmas break, I drove it from Missouri to my parent's house in Seattle, and then back again without incident (well, it was little tough to start some mornings, and occasionally would lose power on the steeper parts of the Rockies...).

Could a car with bad compression make such a journey, or do you think I was just marginally able to?

Any other theories? I just don't want to say curtains on meine liebsten Der Kaiser without being sure it's really dead... *sigh*

Valves can be adjusted--how difficult is this process? And how about compression? I'm figuring the latter requires an engine rebuild.
I wouldn't do anything without doing a compression test. Typically takes about and hour or so. HF has an inexpensive diesel compression tester.
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  #2  
Old 01-13-2012, 08:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kerry View Post
I wouldn't do anything without doing a compression test. Typically takes about and hour or so. HF has an inexpensive diesel compression tester.
I would adjust the valves before performing a compression test.

I would also change the oil to synthetic before performing a compression test.

I might even change the battery before performing a compression test.

Why?

Because we frequently find compression figures that are somewhere around 280-300 and it is difficult to make a conclusion based upon those figures.

Furthermore, the test is usually done without any resistance in the remaining cylinders, thereby increasing the available cranking speed, and providing a result that is not comparable to the actual condition when cranking under full compression from all five.

Do the simple things that are absolutely required............first.
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  #3  
Old 01-13-2012, 09:04 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Columbia, MO
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Thanks for the advice. I'll be adding Diesel 9/11 tomorrow, in hopes that i can at least get her running again and garage her for further work.

If that doesn't work, I'll try the drain process; then to valves, and so on.

Thanks again, everybody.
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  #4  
Old 01-13-2012, 09:24 PM
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Originally Posted by KaiserChief View Post
Thanks for the advice. I'll be adding Diesel 9/11 tomorrow, in hopes that i can at least get her running again and garage her for further work.

If that doesn't work, I'll try the drain process; then to valves, and so on.

If you've got gelled fuel, the addition of Diesel 911 won't help it to start. The 911 cannot get down the lines to the injectors.

If you believe the fuel is gelled, get yourself a pan of charcoal, light it up, wait until the flame goes out and the coals have turned almost white...........and place it beneath the oil pan. Leave it for about 90 minutes or so. If there is gelled fuel in the lines under the hood............the heat from the charcoal will alleviate that condition. Then, the addition of 911 to the tank can have some benefit.

Get it in the garage, do the valves and change the oil to Rotella 5W-40 synthetic (usually available at Wal-Mart).

If the battery is more than five years old............or if you don't know how old it is...........replace it with a new group 49 battery from Autozone. You get an 84 month warranty without the need to save your receipt.

Spend a few dollars on it..........and my bet is that it will reward you with a start in the cold.
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  #5  
Old 01-14-2012, 02:09 AM
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Location: Colorado Springs, CO
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Hmm, this would certainly explain why my car has a harder time starting in the cold than it used to. Good to know! One more thing for the list!
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